Why is the action so high on fiddles compared to other string instruments?
Wouldn't lowering the bridge make it easier to play by getting a lower action? (Provided it's done properly).
Would lowering the bridge have any bad side effect on the fiddle?
I play with a lowered bridge. Its fairly flat, actually, and it makes playing double stops and open string drones much easier. When I bought the fiddle, it was set up in a classical style. I asked the violin shop person to flatten the bridge and adjust the nut accordingly. I don't think he wanted to do this, but he did. I like the set up I have a lot.
Sure, any competent violin repairer can lower the bridge for you.
If properly done, the only side effect might be slightly less volume (not as loud).
If you're having it done, make sure to specify whether you want the curve of the bridge flattened out (for easier double stops--more commonly done for old-time fiddling) or want to keep the same curvature, just with lower action.
Good advice above. It is possible to go too lowwith your action, and even if they're not buzzing, you won't get as much "pop" out of your fingering (rolls and cuts, etc.)
You could consider using synthetic core strings as opposed to steel (if you're not already). May remove the need to lower the action and flatten the bridge. It's a trade-off, I think - sacrificing tone (by lowering the action) for playing comfort and ease. There's a big split in opinion about this, so the strings option would be cheaper if you're going to experiment.
I agree with Will on this. I've tried fiddles with almost no action at all & apart from feeling very weird, the ornamentation isn't as clear & some of the volume seems to be sucked back into the instrument. I'd recommend getting some advice from a local luthier.
I've seen old-timey fiddlers with with a lowered and flattened bridge,but they don't do the rolls,cuts and triplets.All the ITM fiddlers that I know play with a normal bridge.
Not too low if you do any bow lifting at all (if the strings are too low, the strings are likely to hit the end of the fingerboard) - bow lifting is very effective in Strathspeys, and knowing from your previous threads that you're thinking of moving to Scotland.....
Doesn't having a flat bridge make it more difficult to play individual strings? Iv'e never tried it as I believe in the old adage "If it's working leave it alone". If you start messing with things it generally leads to a load of trouble. I suppose I'm not very adventurous these days.
My three fiddles have all had bridge and soundpost adjustments by a luthier - although I love messing with things myself there comes a time when you have to restrain yourself and consult a specialist. The curvature of the bridge has to be right for the instrument and for your playing style. If you look across the strings at the point where the bow touches and rotate the fiddle, obviously each string should be slightly proud so the bow can play it individually. If the bridge is too flat, then you're going to be playing chords - but you might want that with certain music. But if you press down the D or the A while looking across the strings and the bridge is too flat, you'll see that the pressed down string might only be playable separately really close to the bridge, and will sound very harsh. If you want to play a G roll on the D string for example and you're catching both of the adjacent strings then the curve of the bridge needs to be more pronounced. I think it's best to ask for a conventional classical setup, and then go back for fine adjustments if necessary.
It's probably as well to note that the curvature of the bridge needs to follow the curvature of the fingerboard pretty closely. Give that a moment's thought and the reasons should be pretty obvious.
Actually I wasn't talking about flattening the bridge at all, I like the normal curvature and I'm not crazy for double stoppings.
I was refering to making the bridge smaller but keeping the same curvature.
As Ron P knows, I'm into the scottish styles, so I don't use rolls neither, but I use cuts a lot.
And the strathpeys bowing technique would be a cause of concern, yes. Thanks for the advise.
Questions about fiddle bridge
Questions about fiddle bridge
Why is the action so high on fiddles compared to other string instruments?
Wouldn't lowering the bridge make it easier to play by getting a lower action? (Provided it's done properly).
Would lowering the bridge have any bad side effect on the fiddle?
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by Beheader
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
I play with a lowered bridge. Its fairly flat, actually, and it makes playing double stops and open string drones much easier. When I bought the fiddle, it was set up in a classical style. I asked the violin shop person to flatten the bridge and adjust the nut accordingly. I don't think he wanted to do this, but he did. I like the set up I have a lot.
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by John Culhane
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
Sure, any competent violin repairer can lower the bridge for you.
If properly done, the only side effect might be slightly less volume (not as loud).
If you're having it done, make sure to specify whether you want the curve of the bridge flattened out (for easier double stops--more commonly done for old-time fiddling) or want to keep the same curvature, just with lower action.
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by mickray
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
Good advice above. It is possible to go too lowwith your action, and even if they're not buzzing, you won't get as much "pop" out of your fingering (rolls and cuts, etc.)
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by Will CPT
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
You could consider using synthetic core strings as opposed to steel (if you're not already). May remove the need to lower the action and flatten the bridge. It's a trade-off, I think - sacrificing tone (by lowering the action) for playing comfort and ease. There's a big split in opinion about this, so the strings option would be cheaper if you're going to experiment.
Jim
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by Worldfiddler
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
I agree with Will on this. I've tried fiddles with almost no action at all & apart from feeling very weird, the ornamentation isn't as clear & some of the volume seems to be sucked back into the instrument. I'd recommend getting some advice from a local luthier.
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by Ptarmigan
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
I've seen old-timey fiddlers with with a lowered and flattened bridge,but they don't do the rolls,cuts and triplets.All the ITM fiddlers that I know play with a normal bridge.
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by dafydd
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
Not too low if you do any bow lifting at all (if the strings are too low, the strings are likely to hit the end of the fingerboard) - bow lifting is very effective in Strathspeys, and knowing from your previous threads that you're thinking of moving to Scotland.....
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by Ron P
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
Doesn't having a flat bridge make it more difficult to play individual strings? Iv'e never tried it as I believe in the old adage "If it's working leave it alone". If you start messing with things it generally leads to a load of trouble. I suppose I'm not very adventurous these days.
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by Bernie
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
My three fiddles have all had bridge and soundpost adjustments by a luthier - although I love messing with things myself there comes a time when you have to restrain yourself and consult a specialist. The curvature of the bridge has to be right for the instrument and for your playing style. If you look across the strings at the point where the bow touches and rotate the fiddle, obviously each string should be slightly proud so the bow can play it individually. If the bridge is too flat, then you're going to be playing chords - but you might want that with certain music. But if you press down the D or the A while looking across the strings and the bridge is too flat, you'll see that the pressed down string might only be playable separately really close to the bridge, and will sound very harsh. If you want to play a G roll on the D string for example and you're catching both of the adjacent strings then the curve of the bridge needs to be more pronounced. I think it's best to ask for a conventional classical setup, and then go back for fine adjustments if necessary.
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by RichardB
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
It's probably as well to note that the curvature of the bridge needs to follow the curvature of the fingerboard pretty closely. Give that a moment's thought and the reasons should be pretty obvious.
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by Presumin Ed
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
Thanks lads!
Actually I wasn't talking about flattening the bridge at all, I like the normal curvature and I'm not crazy for double stoppings.
I was refering to making the bridge smaller but keeping the same curvature.
As Ron P knows, I'm into the scottish styles, so I don't use rolls neither, but I use cuts a lot.
And the strathpeys bowing technique would be a cause of concern, yes. Thanks for the advise.
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by Beheader
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
This fellow works in my shop, here is how he cuts bridges
http://www.burnsrepair.com/index_005.htm
on a related subject, turn your VSO (violin shaped object) into a player yourself
http://hmi.homewood.net/vso/
# Posted on October 7th 2005 by bt
Re: Questions about fiddle bridge
re bridges have you seen
www.violinbridges.co.uk
# Posted on October 10th 2005 by gerardkilbride