This topic is something I sadly don't know much about.
Can any bouzouki players comment on which strings are best? Preferably handmade, I know about the gauges but just need to find the right person.
Which strings are best? It depends on what you want - tone, durability, consistency, non-corroding, etc. Your favorite sounding string might not be the most durable or it might tend to corrode faster than others. The bronze alloy formulation (phosphor, 80/20, etc.) has some effect on the voice of the string, but so do most of the other factors that go into a string.
I suggest you ignore the "handmade" designation and just try lots of strings. "Handmade" strings have no advantage over completely-machine-made strings, unless you just happen to prefer a brand that happens to be handmade. Ultimately, you have to match the strings to the instrument. Zook strings are no different from guitar strings, so don't limit yourself to special zook sets.
The micro-coated strings (Martin SP, D'Addario EXP, etc.) are a definite improvement over uncoated, if only because they last *much* longer without losing their tone or becoming corroded. I get at least three or four times as much life out of them.
My experience w/ coated strings is a bit different. They worked fine on my mandolin, but I didn't like what they did for my guitar. Coated ("teflon") strings are either love 'em or hate 'em.
I've been using NewTone strings. They're handmade, although I couldn't tell you what the difference really is. Nevertheless, I've been quite pleased with them on my guitar, banjo, mandolin, and octave mandolin. However, John Pearse makes a good string too, and I'll use GHS or similar strings if necessary.
Have to agree with Bob--there are no "best" strings. Most are quite similar, some have wee advantages, and you just have to experiment until you find strings you like and that make your instrument sing.
I do buy sets, however. You can certainly buy individual strings, but they can be hard to find, and probably more expensive. Sets have the advantage of being relatively consistent in age, and they're all there in one place.
Actually, I was referring to the newer micro-coated strings, not the Elixir teflon type. You can't tell they're coated. They just look slightly darker and they last a long time. I've used Elixirs on two guitars. They sounded good on one but way, way too bright on the other, and I found that the coating got a little shaggy after a while.
I don't know what the string marker is like now, but back in the 80's, I was able to order single strings in bulk at a really good price. I would get the equivalent of twelve guitar sets, custom gauged, delivered to my door, COD, for about three bucks a set. I was gigging a lot and changing strings every two weeks. There are so many string maunfacturers now, I don't think you'd find such a great deal anymore, but it's still worth exploring.
I like the Sherwood Irish Bouzouki sets, .11, .16, .28w, .40w, with octaves on the bottom two pairs. I also use Fastfret.
I have no idea whether I play less aggressively, practise less, the strings are better these days, I spend less time in smokey atmospheres, or what, but it seems to me that strings last a lot longer these days, without the dramatic drop in tonal quality I remember from my intensive guitar-playing times.
I also have a home-built modified Red-Henry-pattern bridge, made from a single piece of maple, and it may be that the wood is softer than the usual saddle-material for 'zouks, etc, but I have never had a string break over the bridge.
I've heard good things about the NewTone strings. Besides being handmade, they have a round core wire, where most strings these days have a hexagonal core for some reason. I think the round core lasts longer, and plays at a slightly lower tension.
I use cheap bronze wound guitar strings from juststrings.com. I can buy 6 sets of (unison) strings for under $50. My zouk is a 5 course, so I have a low string tuned to a bass D. I can't find anyone who sells bulk .064 strings, so I buy those separately. But buying bulk (12 strings at a time, unwrapped) for the other 4 courses is way cheaper - they're D'Addario, so they're not too bad. And they're so cheap that I don't mind changing them fairly often (unlike Zina's fiddle strings - sheesh, those things are *pricey*)
I've found that instruments I use a lot need to have strings changed fairly often whether they are coated or not. Consequently I buy bulk single strings from juststrings.com. Very cheap and don't last forever but I change them every couple of weeks. With instruments that I play occasionally I've been using Elixirs because they last a long time. There's nothing worse that picking up a guitar you haven't played for two months and finding the strings are like fencing wire even though they've only been used a couple of times.
I use NewTone strings too.. I've used the following gauges for over 10 years now and they seem to suit my style of playing.
G 42
D 34
A 18 wound
D 13
The wound A strings are very important as far as I'm concerned, definitely gives a less 'twangy' sound. Before I started using Newtones, I used to have trouble with the A strings braking. Malcom at Newtone tells me that they use a heavier core than is usual for their 18w so this problem isn't an issue..
Don't think there's been a link posted, so here goes http://www.dwmee.34sp.com/index.htm
I play a Phil Crump B-II bouzouki with a 25.4" scale and unison courses. The B-II has an Allen cast tailpiece that will take either ball-end, which I prefer, or loop-end strings. Ball-end guitar strings are -much- easier to find in the middle of the US, so those are what I keep in stock. I like high tension.
I usually buy them in five-packs (I wonder why they package -five- in each...?) from my local music shop. I prefer 80/20 bronze to the brighter-sounding phosphor bronze ones.
Gauges are .042, .032, .020 wound, .016 or .014.
Zan McLeod recommended the wound .020 for a long-scale instrument, and tho I have tried others on the A course, I like this set up a lot. 016 or 014 is just... depending how I feel at the time. I play in GDAD, and the feel of the high course isn't very different to me between the two. I don't play melody on the high course very much.
If I could afford it, I'd get the same gauges in singles in D'Addario Flat-Tops, which are a half-round set. I use those on my guitars (light-gauge, the EFT-16 set) and I love the extra smoothness on the wound strings, the feel and the sound. I did make up a set for the zouk once and it was just grand.
Hi, Here is a tip to help prevent strings braking........
Rub the lead of a pencil along the top nut, and along the bridge bone. I know it sounds strange, and can leave a dirty mark on both your zouk and on your hand (if you rest it on the bridge while playing), but it works most of the time.
Hope it helps some bit! Seanie.
I got the zouki back...
There have been lots of tweaks and it sounds sexy.
Although - me 18 wound strings are not the way to go.
Joe's put on some 22 wound, but these are tight!!!!It seems the scale on my yoke is just too long....
Ive got a feeling they will break soon.....
Any suggestions for wound strings on the A - they sound so much nicer to me...
S
Bouzouki Strings
Bouzouki Strings
This topic is something I sadly don't know much about.
Can any bouzouki players comment on which strings are best? Preferably handmade, I know about the gauges but just need to find the right person.
# Posted on September 22nd 2005 by ecidralla
Re: Bouzouki Strings
Hi Zook man...
I hate strings - they are the death of me.
I broke 6 at one sitting recently - im not a hard player really.
I use guitar strings. i use unison sets.
G-40
d-32/30
A18 - wound
Joe Foley has my old one as I'm writing this, and says the bridge wasn't great so hopefully that'll put a stop to that.
I like the wound strings cause the sound is warmer and not as clangy as it can be.
i use the sliding capo alot, and these strings hold the tune well...
# Posted on September 22nd 2005 by Hugo Chavez
Re: Bouzouki Strings
Which strings are best? It depends on what you want - tone, durability, consistency, non-corroding, etc. Your favorite sounding string might not be the most durable or it might tend to corrode faster than others. The bronze alloy formulation (phosphor, 80/20, etc.) has some effect on the voice of the string, but so do most of the other factors that go into a string.
I suggest you ignore the "handmade" designation and just try lots of strings. "Handmade" strings have no advantage over completely-machine-made strings, unless you just happen to prefer a brand that happens to be handmade. Ultimately, you have to match the strings to the instrument. Zook strings are no different from guitar strings, so don't limit yourself to special zook sets.
The micro-coated strings (Martin SP, D'Addario EXP, etc.) are a definite improvement over uncoated, if only because they last *much* longer without losing their tone or becoming corroded. I get at least three or four times as much life out of them.
# Posted on September 22nd 2005 by Bob himself
Re: Bouzouki Strings
My experience w/ coated strings is a bit different. They worked fine on my mandolin, but I didn't like what they did for my guitar. Coated ("teflon") strings are either love 'em or hate 'em.
I've been using NewTone strings. They're handmade, although I couldn't tell you what the difference really is. Nevertheless, I've been quite pleased with them on my guitar, banjo, mandolin, and octave mandolin. However, John Pearse makes a good string too, and I'll use GHS or similar strings if necessary.
Have to agree with Bob--there are no "best" strings. Most are quite similar, some have wee advantages, and you just have to experiment until you find strings you like and that make your instrument sing.
I do buy sets, however. You can certainly buy individual strings, but they can be hard to find, and probably more expensive. Sets have the advantage of being relatively consistent in age, and they're all there in one place.
# Posted on September 22nd 2005 by High-strung
Re: Bouzouki Strings
Actually, I was referring to the newer micro-coated strings, not the Elixir teflon type. You can't tell they're coated. They just look slightly darker and they last a long time. I've used Elixirs on two guitars. They sounded good on one but way, way too bright on the other, and I found that the coating got a little shaggy after a while.
I don't know what the string marker is like now, but back in the 80's, I was able to order single strings in bulk at a really good price. I would get the equivalent of twelve guitar sets, custom gauged, delivered to my door, COD, for about three bucks a set. I was gigging a lot and changing strings every two weeks. There are so many string maunfacturers now, I don't think you'd find such a great deal anymore, but it's still worth exploring.
# Posted on September 22nd 2005 by Bob himself
Re: Bouzouki Strings
I like the Sherwood Irish Bouzouki sets, .11, .16, .28w, .40w, with octaves on the bottom two pairs. I also use Fastfret.
I have no idea whether I play less aggressively, practise less, the strings are better these days, I spend less time in smokey atmospheres, or what, but it seems to me that strings last a lot longer these days, without the dramatic drop in tonal quality I remember from my intensive guitar-playing times.
I also have a home-built modified Red-Henry-pattern bridge, made from a single piece of maple, and it may be that the wood is softer than the usual saddle-material for 'zouks, etc, but I have never had a string break over the bridge.
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by Guernsey Pete
Re: Bouzouki Strings
I've heard good things about the NewTone strings. Besides being handmade, they have a round core wire, where most strings these days have a hexagonal core for some reason. I think the round core lasts longer, and plays at a slightly lower tension.
I use cheap bronze wound guitar strings from juststrings.com. I can buy 6 sets of (unison) strings for under $50. My zouk is a 5 course, so I have a low string tuned to a bass D. I can't find anyone who sells bulk .064 strings, so I buy those separately. But buying bulk (12 strings at a time, unwrapped) for the other 4 courses is way cheaper - they're D'Addario, so they're not too bad. And they're so cheap that I don't mind changing them fairly often (unlike Zina's fiddle strings - sheesh, those things are *pricey*)
Pete
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by Reverend
Re: Bouzouki Strings
I've found that instruments I use a lot need to have strings changed fairly often whether they are coated or not. Consequently I buy bulk single strings from juststrings.com. Very cheap and don't last forever but I change them every couple of weeks. With instruments that I play occasionally I've been using Elixirs because they last a long time. There's nothing worse that picking up a guitar you haven't played for two months and finding the strings are like fencing wire even though they've only been used a couple of times.
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by zookman2
Re: Bouzouki Strings
I use NewTone strings too.. I've used the following gauges for over 10 years now and they seem to suit my style of playing.
G 42
D 34
A 18 wound
D 13
The wound A strings are very important as far as I'm concerned, definitely gives a less 'twangy' sound. Before I started using Newtones, I used to have trouble with the A strings braking. Malcom at Newtone tells me that they use a heavier core than is usual for their 18w so this problem isn't an issue..
Don't think there's been a link posted, so here goes http://www.dwmee.34sp.com/index.htm
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by Andy G
Re: Bouzouki Strings
Obviously I meant "A strings breaking" as I don't think they could really slow you down!
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by Andy G
Re: Bouzouki Strings
Hi Andy - thats a great link - thanks!
Wound 18's - a pain to find. but i love the sound i get
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by Hugo Chavez
Re: Bouzouki Strings
Wound 18's - don't they break easily?
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by Bob himself
Re: Bouzouki Strings
Depends.the used to break in certain pubs - heat i guess.
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by Hugo Chavez
Re: Bouzouki Strings
I play a Phil Crump B-II bouzouki with a 25.4" scale and unison courses. The B-II has an Allen cast tailpiece that will take either ball-end, which I prefer, or loop-end strings. Ball-end guitar strings are -much- easier to find in the middle of the US, so those are what I keep in stock. I like high tension.
I usually buy them in five-packs (I wonder why they package -five- in each...?) from my local music shop. I prefer 80/20 bronze to the brighter-sounding phosphor bronze ones.
Gauges are .042, .032, .020 wound, .016 or .014.
Zan McLeod recommended the wound .020 for a long-scale instrument, and tho I have tried others on the A course, I like this set up a lot. 016 or 014 is just... depending how I feel at the time. I play in GDAD, and the feel of the high course isn't very different to me between the two. I don't play melody on the high course very much.
If I could afford it, I'd get the same gauges in singles in D'Addario Flat-Tops, which are a half-round set. I use those on my guitars (light-gauge, the EFT-16 set) and I love the extra smoothness on the wound strings, the feel and the sound. I did make up a set for the zouk once and it was just grand.
stv
http://cdbaby.com/Culchies
# Posted on September 23rd 2005 by stv culchie
Re: Bouzouki Strings
Hi, Here is a tip to help prevent strings braking........
Rub the lead of a pencil along the top nut, and along the bridge bone. I know it sounds strange, and can leave a dirty mark on both your zouk and on your hand (if you rest it on the bridge while playing), but it works most of the time.
Hope it helps some bit! Seanie.
# Posted on September 24th 2005 by seaniemcg
Re: Bouzouki Strings
I got the zouki back...
There have been lots of tweaks and it sounds sexy.
Although - me 18 wound strings are not the way to go.
Joe's put on some 22 wound, but these are tight!!!!It seems the scale on my yoke is just too long....
Ive got a feeling they will break soon.....
Any suggestions for wound strings on the A - they sound so much nicer to me...
S
# Posted on October 4th 2005 by Hugo Chavez