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Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

Have everyone notice recently that generation whistles is now harder to be tweaked? I have bought Generation Nickel in C, last night I try to tweak it by myself by the first step to dip it in the hot water. After 30 second I try to release the fipple but it was hard as hellll!!! Then I try to dip it again several times, but it won't work because the fipple was still hard to release. Then I become frustrated, I dip it all night. In the morning I try to release it again and amazingly, it still won't work. Does anybody can help me? The hot water I was used was no too boiiled, but hot enough for tweaking my anotherwhistle. Thank's all!

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by sigit

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

Could it be that they're not using the same old heat sensitive glue?

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

You might try putting the whistle in the freezer for an hour or two beforehand, then using the old hot water treatment. The water should be hot - but not boiling.

Try it at your own risk mind, but if your determined to tweak, it may be make or break time.

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ormepipes

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

Try slipping a C whistle tube, over the D whistle tube, and firmly whack/slide the C whistle tube down toward the plastic head on the D whistle several times. I have loosened quite a few whistle heads like this and have not broken any.

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by trad2nz

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

Opps, sorry, I see your trying to do this on a C whistle. Use a Bb whistle over the C whistle tube, you'll get the idea.

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by trad2nz

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

I haven't done it for a couple years but as recently as 2008-09, Generation whistle heads popped off, no bother. I stuck them in properly boiling water, though.

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by DrSilverSpear

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

@mepipes : oooh, too bad i don't have Bb whistle one.. :(

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by sigit

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

A length of old plumbing will work too...

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

@mepipes : Try to do your suggestion

@trad2nz : oooh, too bad i don't have Bb whistle one.. :(

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by sigit

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

@ceolachan : How the procedure is by using the old plumbing?

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by sigit

Something for your whistle toolbox

I was only following on from the previous, which I don't really agree with, using one whistle to whack another.

Here's what to do, get a length of wood roughly 1" x 2"/ 2.4 mm x 5 cm. Then drill holes in it for each of your standard Generation sized tubes, C being your current need. When the tube is warmed up in non-boiling water, drop it into the hole and pull on the other side, or lightly use a repeating up and down motion to dislodge the fipple with equal pressure all round. You can repeat that a few times and hopefully with success, and less risk of cracking the plastic of the fipple itself, of doing any kind of damage to tube or fipple.

That said, there are instruments I've given up on, one or two.

Best of luck ~ 'c'

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

2.4 cm x 5 cm - centimeters, or 24 mm x 50 mm :-/ It's late here...

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

Glad you mentioned this, I've been having the same problem on a few of them

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by camwebby

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

I had a great-playing Generation C, red plastic and lacquered brass, that I could never get the top off of. It was as if the glue had fused onto the lacquer. I used more and more heat, finally throwing caution to the wind, and even didn't mind roughing the thing up with pliers, but it would never come off, no matter how much heat or force.

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by Richard D Cook

Sometimes it's best to just let it be ~

Me too Richard. Sometimes you just have to take them as they come. However, there are ways to tweak without loosening the head.

On the wood directions given above you can also make individual squares in the same way and slide them or the whistle up and down to help loosen the head. It might take several tries. I would avoid the pliers though or a vice, unless you use a cloth or a bit of old inner tube or rubber strip around the fipple, between the jaws of the pliers or vice and the plastic, and not get too carried away with applying pressure... you can also follow the same idea with the wood and cut it in half to use as an aid for using a vice...

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

I've made a sleeve like I'd just mentioned, inserted the whistle tube and slid the sleeve down and against the base of the fipple, then viced the tube and used another piece of wood with a U cut into it, placing it at a sharp angle over the tube, placing the two feet either side of the tube and on to the sleeve, then using my carver's mallet to gently knock the end of my forked stick, in line with the tube, to loosen the head.

Mind you, I haven't done any of this in ages, but it usually worked. This last suggestion was a last resort, vicing the tube as well as mentioned just previously, with wood and felt...

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

~ or, as previously mentioned, wood and a bit ofold bicycle tube rubber, or similar, which is less likely to let the tube slide than felt...

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

I also have vice jaws with a V cut the length of the jaws for holding tubing, doweling, axe handles, flutes, etc... ;-)

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

An older method was to hold a lighted candle about an inch down the tube. Let the heat travel up the metal and then twist the head off.

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by deeor

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

I *think* there was a post over on chiff&fipple from a veteran tweaker who said that getting the heads off the C whistles without splitting them was almost impossible, but that they could be bound round with thread as a repair.

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by David50

:-D The aftermath...

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

One significant problem is the difference in expansion when heated between metal and plastic, kind of self defeating, with that problem likely rising with the circumference...

# Posted on December 24th 2011 by ceolachan

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

Ceolachan,

You just prompted me to think of another idea. alternate 2 minute dippings in near boiling and then iced water. The idea being to break the bond by taking advantage of the different expansion and contraction rates.

# Posted on December 25th 2011 by ormepipes

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

Yes! Great one ormepipes, but I suspect the stresses would crack the plastic... It would be worth at least a try...

# Posted on December 25th 2011 by ceolachan

Because the plastic is cast and of different thicknesses would likely contribute to a peculiar unevenness in the swelling and shrinking.

# Posted on December 25th 2011 by ceolachan

Re: Generation whistles is harder to be tweaked recently

@ all : I have try many ways to release the fipples from the tube, especially with the candle or hot water.... and nothing works. I guess they already using another type of glue that won't melted even with much heat or strength to twist.

Well, if anybody have any method that success to release the fipple, please let me know

# Posted on December 27th 2011 by sigit

Fipple loosening - sometimes a combination of approaches is best

Using the method I'd mentioned, which would apply pressure evenly all around, should break just about any glue eventually, without breaking the plastic of the fipple... But, it would have to be a tight fit around the tube of the whistle... Another similar option would be to use a length of plumbing, pipe, on its own if it fits, or along with the washer-like piece of wood (wood with a whistle sized hole in it)...

# Posted on January 4th 2012 by ceolachan

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