my playing time is close to that, but i only change them a couple times a year - i wait for the E or A string to unravel. for what it's worth, i use helicore strings. it's mostly kitchen playing, so i'm pretty shameless about it.
I went through a period of about eighteen months when I was changing my A string every three weeks or so, but lately it seems to have settled to about two or three times a year. I think it must have been a bad batch (Dominants). They now have a new design on the packet, and touch wood the design of the string is improved as well.
Evahs seem to last me more than 6 months and I play a lot, but I've learnt to be careful about fingernails as I've had damage to windings in the past. You suddenly notice they go dull though. I've just changed them for Chromcors to see what they're like as the fiddle has a woody, dark sound and I want it to be brighter. Another fiddle currently has Prims on it and I don't think they ever wear out
I'm running Thomastik Visions for G, D, and A, and a Superflexible 8 E string. I change them about every 4 to 6 months, or, if they've been on a while, I'll change them a week before any significant gig.
Ditto on keeping the fingernails trimmed. I also buff down my fingertip callouses (from playing guitar and mandolin) with an emery board to help preserve the wrappings on my fiddle strings. Makes for a smoother feel on the strings, too.
If you use synthetic cores, like Helicores, cleaning the strings every few days with methylated spirit (carefully avoiding the varnish on the body) will extend their life considerably, and prevents unravelling. It's the acidic compound of sweat and resion that causes the casing to unwind.
If you do this, you'll want to re-string only when the tone deteriorates, which is probably 100-150 hours of playing.
Some good advice here. Don't do what I do. I'm lazy and cheap. I drive 'em until they die. I'll use anything I can get my hands on, old piano wire, roadkill gut, fishing line, etc.
A great player I know has had the same set of steel strings on his fiddle for years, and they sound grand. They suit the fiddle, but steels often make an instrument sound awful. If you have an instrument that sounds good with steels, you can save yourself a whole lot of maintenance money...
Beware of using the same steel strings for years and years.
Strings stretch over time, which is why they are always going flat and have to be retuned. Gut and synthetic strings will eventually get to the point where they can't stretch anymore and they'll break. But steel strings are so strong that the fiddle may break first.
As the strings slowly (and for steel strings it's really slow) stretch over time and get tuned up, the tension gradually increases. That extra tension increases the risks of all sorts of bad things happening, like exploding tailpieces, warped bridges, loose fingerboards, warped necks, and even cracked bellies. These kinds of things can happen to any fiddle with any strings, but the higher the string tension the higher the risk.
So be wary of keeping the same steel strings on your fiddle for years and years. Some fiddles can handle it fine, but some can't, especially old ones. For old fiddles it's usually a good idea to avoid steel and high-tension synthetic strings (like Evah's) altogether.
Besides, steel strings are cheap, anyone can afford to change them once or twice a year.
Marklar: Pitch is a function of a combination of string mass (diameter), length, and tension. As a string stretches, its mass (diameter) decreases, such that the the tension required to bring it to a particular pitch decreases (not by much), not increases. Unless my physics fails me.
You might be right, I'm not sure. I'm basing that on the assumption that the strings eventually reach a point where it is very difficult to stretch them anymore, requiring more mechanical force. I'm thinking of strings that have been stretched to their limits over years here. I can't say for sure about that, but I know about the problems high string tension can cause from experience.
I have a fiddle that at one time had the same steel strings for about a decade. The fingerboard eventually came loose from the bridge side to halfway up to the nut, and the neck warped. It was not a cheap repair.
Marklar, if it's stretching, it is getting less tense. Tightening it back up simply brings it back to the original tension. The idea that keeping the same strings on will results in a gradually increasing tension over time makes no sense, at least not via the mechanism you've proposed.
I've been wondering about this myself. I've been using Infeld Blues for a little while, and I'm going through an A string every two weeks and a D string every four. That's with about 16 hours of playing per week. They're coming unwound, and I've been playing outside and sweating a lot, so I think I'll start cleaning them off when I finish playing and see if that helps things any.
Yes, stretching lowers the tension and tuning brings it back up. But strings can only stretch so far, and I'm thinking of a situation when you start to get to the limits. I'm not 100% that that's what's going on, just pointing out that I'm not talking about the normal stretch/tune cycle.
I'm not sure if the strings will break at that point or keep going with more effort required for the stretching, steel strings can go an awful long time before breaking. In any case, I've had damage from string tension on a fiddle that had the same strings forever, and assumed something like that was going on.
You may be assuming cause and effect that isn't there. Okay, it's possible that undue string tension caused the neck to warp and the fingerboard to unglue itself. But sometimes necks warp due to dampness, extreme heat, and other factors.
You're also assuming that synthetic cores necessarily have a lower tensile strength than steel, which may or may not be the case.
"The strain
within this range is elastic. At the limit P the elastic strain turns into a plastic strain and a
remaining lengthening is left after the tension has been disconnected, se Fig. 4.5b. If the
string is stretched until it breaks, the fracture limit B, a measure is obtained of the
maximum tension possible."
The plastic strain thing is what I was trying to get at, and the stuff about maximum tension being at the breaking point seems to imply what I'm saying about increasing tension as the limits are approached. But I'm not 100% sure I'm reading that correctly, I'm not an expert on it.
Then again, plastic tension seems to just mean it won't return to the original length. I'm not sure about the extra tension, but still, I think there's a question there.
"Gut and synthetic strings will eventually get to the point where they can't stretch anymore and they'll break. But steel strings are so strong that the fiddle may break first."
That's a blanket generalization. No mention of Evahs as an exception.
Yep, plasticity in this case means you've permanently stretched the material, like a rock dent in an aluminum canoe--try to pound it smooth again and you'll find the aluminum is forever spread wider than it was before the dent. All you'll do is spread it farther. And it becomes thinner, hence weaker. In the case of metal core strings, it will break at a lower tension than before it became plastic.
I'm doing some reading on it because I'm curious now. I think you guys are right, it doesn't work the way I was assuming. Besides, I think if you actually got to the elastic limit you probably would have a hard time bowing the string.
Yep, confirmed, I've read enough to convince me that it actually works opposite of the way I thought. I've been carrying these assumptions about steel strings around long enough to take them for fact. It's good to have your assumptions challenged from time to time, I've learned something.
Steel core. Who'd a knew. I thought they were like Zyex; made out of some space-suit fabric. Cleaning the sweat off thoroughly does make them last a lot longer nonetheless.
Speaking of Zyex, I've come across a lot of hype about them but never tried them. Anyone use them? Do they really sound like gut, like some of the claims I've read? The price sure is attractive.
I tired Zyex on my fiddle once and could not stand them--dead, muffly, no response. Maybe they were just a bad batch.
Marklar, you aren't the only one learning on this thread. It always helps me to question my assumptions. (Interesting that plasticity in brains is different from plasticity in metals....)
I carry little alcohol wipes in my fiddle case. They come in small, individual foil packets. I get teased if I clean my strings at my local session: "Gee Will, those are awfully small for condoms...."
I've found that Al - wound strings go in about month and it
makes no difference what you do (ie fingernails, wiping, etc).
I also noticed that Infeld Blue G and D strings seem to last forever - but the A's go, as usual for Al strings, in about a month.
I retired a G/D set after 6 months and put on some
Larsen Sziganes; those died after 2 months so I put the Blues
back on and played them another 6 months. I'm trying a full
set of Chromcores now because the Chromcore A strings
hold up really well, but I still have the old Infeld Blues as a backup.
Hup, my A wrappings would go in a few weeks back when I used Dominants, but I haven't had that problem with other wound aluminum strings. The Visions I currently use typically go 6 months without damage to the wrapping.
But body chemistry varies from one person to the next--some of us are more caustic than others. Regardless, I've found that it helps to clean the strings at least once a week, smooth my fingertips with an emery board (nearly every time I play), wash my hands before playing, keep fingernails trimmed short, and periodically check the fingerboard for grooves or divots under the strings. Dressing a fingerboard isn't expensive and it saves wear on the strings (as well as ensures proper intonation and action).
Like Hup I've just put a set of Chromcors on (if they're good enough for Natalie Macmaster...) First impression is that they sound clean and clear and immediately stay in pitch. Maybe they're slightly quieter than the Evahs at first but they must need a little settling in time. I'll see how it goes (there's some very noisy venues, so a clear bright sound is possibly desirable). They are very finely made but it's a bit of a change to start playing on such thin strings. The Prims are steel rope core and they're interesting to play on once you get used to them. They have a rougher surface so you get plenty of friction with the bow. Probably ideal for old-time fiddling and sawmill kind of tunings. I just like to try stuff out - I might go back to Evahs because the cost isn't really an issue when you think of all the other things you have to spend money on like food and gas bills. Fiddle strings are much more important. BTW I'm don't lay claim to being a good fiddler - just improving from the level of total cr@p to the "thank god he's not as bad as he used to be" level!
Richard, Caih... O'Rall... plays Prims (I've got to learn how to
spell his name one of these days) and gets the most exquisite,
delicate tonal effects you can imagine. I've heard him live, with no
electronics or mikes. I did notice his E string whistled a lot, but
that might have been due to rosin or something. I'm at the same
level as you, Richard it sounds like.
RichardB I love your attitude about the importance of fiddle strings versus tedious things like food and gas bills. I bet you're all glad you don't play the harp - at least with fiddle strings they're generally cheaper than harp strings and there aren't 34 of them!
I'd say the Zyex were a bad batch, or simply that your fiddle just doesn't like them Will. Zyex are extremely loud, quite warm but brash at the same time. They're great if you want to cut through the mush of a big session, and they need to be played confidently because of the sheer volume they create. I always found them responsive, clear, and bright, but I've since settled on another set of strings which suit my fiddle better.
I'm looking forward to the day when fiddle strings based on nanocarbon fibres come on the market - doubtlessly in a most interesting price range.
We can think ourselves lucky we don't all play the cello or bass. A decent set of strings for my cello is anything between £100-£150, so I make sure they last - not so difficult bow since I got a free transfer from my chamber orchestra's cello section to the violins, and I now only play the cello occasionally in band gigs.
I know a bass player who has been using the same set of steel strings for over 30 years.
Getting back to the subject in hand, I use Evahs on my old fiddle for orchestral playing, changing them about every 6 months or so, and Chromecores on my folk/session fiddle with a nice low action - I've haven't needed to change a Chromecore string yet after well over a year.
It's personal really. I think humidity, physicality of the player, cleanliness, string batch, tuning habits, climate changes (travel) and other such factors will effect string life.
My string review:
I use Chromcor and vision, like them both. Vision's are like Evah's when they are done, but when they first go on.. knock your socks off. Of course they are less expensive. I play anywhere from 30 min to 2-3 hours a day. They last from 4-6 months, since i Play that fiddle part time... I suppose they aren't really that long lived.
Chromcors, are much better than Helicore's I wouldn't compare them to Evah's... that's like oranges and apples. They are inexpensive, and loud and steely, and sound great under a mic, when I get rooked into the occaisional rock and roll gig they are a must have. So they are on fiddle B.
Zyex's felt like big rubber bands, I didn't like them.
Helicores are alright I have a Helicore A on my vision strung instrument at the moment, they don't last long so I figured it would die at roughly the same time as the visions.
Well, I tried every approach with the Zyex and they sounded awful no matter what. The Visions (Titanium Solos) with the Superflexible E sound super at every volume--I can whisper or push them as hard as a strong bow will go.
But every fiddle is different. Most of the pro fiddlers I've known (stateside) favor a relatively small range of strings--Evahs, Visions, Helicores, Chromcors, Prims, and a few that stick with Dominants.
Here's a suggestion - have your bow rehaired about once a year or every 18 months - although it will vary from player to player. Most players don't have rehairs done frequently enough (I'm as bad a sinner in this respect as anyone) - and this does tend to show up in the tone. If you try to compensate by piling on the rosin you're only making matters worse by stifling the tone of the string.
The bow rehairer will also tighten up the stick if it's got too bendy (in any direction), check the mechanics of the frog, and generally pass back to you a refurbished tool that will improve your playing. It also helps the guy's business.
I just switched from a cheap CF bow to a $1000 no-name European pernambuco. That has made quite a difference in tone
colour and responsiveness; I think I've overdone it with the rosin though
Bows can be horses for courses. An £80 CF bow (no name) I was given a year or so ago has surprisingly turned out to be ideal for my Jay Haide fiddle (the one I use for sessions), surpassing in balance, tone and playability my two pernambuco bows as far as the Jay Haide is concerned, even though it is a couple of grammes heavier - not that I'm at all aware of that when using it. The pernambucos do have an edge over the CF when played on my 18th c fiddle, but the CF nevertheless is still a useful backup.
Forgive the transgression here, but professional violinists do a simple test.
In a very quiet place, pluck the string. If the pitch stays the same from the initial pluck through the sustain, then it's fine. If it changes pitch, replace it. Could be a new bad string, or one that's lasted a year or more. The other discussions give the "why" a string goes "false".
In a very quiet place, pluck the string. If the pitch stays the same from the initial pluck through the sustain, then it's fine. If it changes pitch, replace it. Could be a new bad string, or one that's lasted a year or more. The other discussions give the "why" a string goes "false".
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
That's interesting, where can I read these other discussions about why a string goes false?
How often do you change fiddle strings?
How often do you change fiddle strings?
I reckon I play an hour a day on average, and I change my strings every couple of months. I'm curious how that compares to what others do.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Bernie 29
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
my playing time is close to that, but i only change them a couple times a year - i wait for the E or A string to unravel. for what it's worth, i use helicore strings. it's mostly kitchen playing, so i'm pretty shameless about it.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by 'tinamatt
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Echo that, about twice annually.
I use Thomastic Infeld Blue's, so the A's a little prone to deterioration, but nothing drastic.
have also used Evah's to brighten an otherwise quiet fiddle, but they seem to lose the brightness before the Blues.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by riverrunner
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
When they break, or wear . Occasionally if the tone dies on lower strings.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by piobagusfidil
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I went through a period of about eighteen months when I was changing my A string every three weeks or so, but lately it seems to have settled to about two or three times a year. I think it must have been a bad batch (Dominants). They now have a new design on the packet, and touch wood the design of the string is improved as well.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by gam
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Every three to six months, depending on how much I'm playing. I use Passiones.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Evahs seem to last me more than 6 months and I play a lot, but I've learnt to be careful about fingernails as I've had damage to windings in the past. You suddenly notice they go dull though. I've just changed them for Chromcors to see what they're like as the fiddle has a woody, dark sound and I want it to be brighter. Another fiddle currently has Prims on it and I don't think they ever wear out
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by RichardB
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I'm running Thomastik Visions for G, D, and A, and a Superflexible 8 E string. I change them about every 4 to 6 months, or, if they've been on a while, I'll change them a week before any significant gig.
Ditto on keeping the fingernails trimmed. I also buff down my fingertip callouses (from playing guitar and mandolin) with an emery board to help preserve the wrappings on my fiddle strings. Makes for a smoother feel on the strings, too.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
If you use synthetic cores, like Helicores, cleaning the strings every few days with methylated spirit (carefully avoiding the varnish on the body) will extend their life considerably, and prevents unravelling. It's the acidic compound of sweat and resion that causes the casing to unwind.
If you do this, you'll want to re-string only when the tone deteriorates, which is probably 100-150 hours of playing.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Dragut Reis
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
resion = rosin...
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Dragut Reis
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Some good advice here. Don't do what I do. I'm lazy and cheap. I drive 'em until they die. I'll use anything I can get my hands on, old piano wire, roadkill gut, fishing line, etc.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by SWFL Fiddler
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
A great player I know has had the same set of steel strings on his fiddle for years, and they sound grand. They suit the fiddle, but steels often make an instrument sound awful. If you have an instrument that sounds good with steels, you can save yourself a whole lot of maintenance money...
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Dragut Reis
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I thought Helicores were steel core.
Yes, I too wipe down my strings after heavy playing with an alcohol swab, taking care to protect the fiddle from drips.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Beware of using the same steel strings for years and years.
Strings stretch over time, which is why they are always going flat and have to be retuned. Gut and synthetic strings will eventually get to the point where they can't stretch anymore and they'll break. But steel strings are so strong that the fiddle may break first.
As the strings slowly (and for steel strings it's really slow) stretch over time and get tuned up, the tension gradually increases. That extra tension increases the risks of all sorts of bad things happening, like exploding tailpieces, warped bridges, loose fingerboards, warped necks, and even cracked bellies. These kinds of things can happen to any fiddle with any strings, but the higher the string tension the higher the risk.
So be wary of keeping the same steel strings on your fiddle for years and years. Some fiddles can handle it fine, but some can't, especially old ones. For old fiddles it's usually a good idea to avoid steel and high-tension synthetic strings (like Evah's) altogether.
Besides, steel strings are cheap, anyone can afford to change them once or twice a year.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Marklar: Pitch is a function of a combination of string mass (diameter), length, and tension. As a string stretches, its mass (diameter) decreases, such that the the tension required to bring it to a particular pitch decreases (not by much), not increases. Unless my physics fails me.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by will morgan
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
You might be right, I'm not sure. I'm basing that on the assumption that the strings eventually reach a point where it is very difficult to stretch them anymore, requiring more mechanical force. I'm thinking of strings that have been stretched to their limits over years here. I can't say for sure about that, but I know about the problems high string tension can cause from experience.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Marklar
I have a fiddle that at one time had the same steel strings for about a decade. The fingerboard eventually came loose from the bridge side to halfway up to the nut, and the neck warped. It was not a cheap repair.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Marklar, if it's stretching, it is getting less tense. Tightening it back up simply brings it back to the original tension. The idea that keeping the same strings on will results in a gradually increasing tension over time makes no sense, at least not via the mechanism you've proposed.
I've been wondering about this myself. I've been using Infeld Blues for a little while, and I'm going through an A string every two weeks and a D string every four. That's with about 16 hours of playing per week. They're coming unwound, and I've been playing outside and sweating a lot, so I think I'll start cleaning them off when I finish playing and see if that helps things any.
# Posted on August 4th 2010 by hotsauce
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Yes, stretching lowers the tension and tuning brings it back up. But strings can only stretch so far, and I'm thinking of a situation when you start to get to the limits. I'm not 100% that that's what's going on, just pointing out that I'm not talking about the normal stretch/tune cycle.
I'm not sure if the strings will break at that point or keep going with more effort required for the stretching, steel strings can go an awful long time before breaking. In any case, I've had damage from string tension on a fiddle that had the same strings forever, and assumed something like that was going on.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
You may be assuming cause and effect that isn't there. Okay, it's possible that undue string tension caused the neck to warp and the fingerboard to unglue itself. But sometimes necks warp due to dampness, extreme heat, and other factors.
You're also assuming that synthetic cores necessarily have a lower tensile strength than steel, which may or may not be the case.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
BTW, D'Addario describes Helicores as "multi-stranded steel core" strings.
http://store.daddario.com/category/146694/Helicore_Strings
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I think this article has some info about what I'm trying to say:
http://www.speech.kth.se/music/acviguit4/part4.pdf
"The strain
within this range is elastic. At the limit P the elastic strain turns into a plastic strain and a
remaining lengthening is left after the tension has been disconnected, se Fig. 4.5b. If the
string is stretched until it breaks, the fracture limit B, a measure is obtained of the
maximum tension possible."
The plastic strain thing is what I was trying to get at, and the stuff about maximum tension being at the breaking point seems to imply what I'm saying about increasing tension as the limits are approached. But I'm not 100% sure I'm reading that correctly, I'm not an expert on it.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
"You're also assuming that synthetic cores necessarily have a lower tensile strength than steel, which may or may not be the case."
Not really, I mentioned Evah's for a reason.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Then again, plastic tension seems to just mean it won't return to the original length. I'm not sure about the extra tension, but still, I think there's a question there.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
"Gut and synthetic strings will eventually get to the point where they can't stretch anymore and they'll break. But steel strings are so strong that the fiddle may break first."
That's a blanket generalization. No mention of Evahs as an exception.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Yep, plasticity in this case means you've permanently stretched the material, like a rock dent in an aluminum canoe--try to pound it smooth again and you'll find the aluminum is forever spread wider than it was before the dent. All you'll do is spread it farther. And it becomes thinner, hence weaker. In the case of metal core strings, it will break at a lower tension than before it became plastic.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I'm doing some reading on it because I'm curious now. I think you guys are right, it doesn't work the way I was assuming. Besides, I think if you actually got to the elastic limit you probably would have a hard time bowing the string.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Marklar
Yep, confirmed, I've read enough to convince me that it actually works opposite of the way I thought. I've been carrying these assumptions about steel strings around long enough to take them for fact. It's good to have your assumptions challenged from time to time, I've learned something.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Steel core. Who'd a knew. I thought they were like Zyex; made out of some space-suit fabric. Cleaning the sweat off thoroughly does make them last a lot longer nonetheless.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Dragut Reis
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Speaking of Zyex, I've come across a lot of hype about them but never tried them. Anyone use them? Do they really sound like gut, like some of the claims I've read? The price sure is attractive.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Marklar
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I tired Zyex on my fiddle once and could not stand them--dead, muffly, no response. Maybe they were just a bad batch.
Marklar, you aren't the only one learning on this thread. It always helps me to question my assumptions. (Interesting that plasticity in brains is different from plasticity in metals....)
I carry little alcohol wipes in my fiddle case. They come in small, individual foil packets. I get teased if I clean my strings at my local session: "Gee Will, those are awfully small for condoms...."
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
You can change them?
(Larsens, about once a year and I play about the same amount you do.)
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by mickm
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
You can change those things?
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by jwvansteenwyk
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I've found that Al - wound strings go in about month and it
makes no difference what you do (ie fingernails, wiping, etc).
I also noticed that Infeld Blue G and D strings seem to last forever - but the A's go, as usual for Al strings, in about a month.
I retired a G/D set after 6 months and put on some
Larsen Sziganes; those died after 2 months so I put the Blues
back on and played them another 6 months. I'm trying a full
set of Chromcores now because the Chromcore A strings
hold up really well, but I still have the old Infeld Blues as a backup.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Hup
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Hup, my A wrappings would go in a few weeks back when I used Dominants, but I haven't had that problem with other wound aluminum strings. The Visions I currently use typically go 6 months without damage to the wrapping.
Regardless, I've found that it helps to clean the strings at least once a week, smooth my fingertips with an emery board (nearly every time I play), wash my hands before playing, keep fingernails trimmed short, and periodically check the fingerboard for grooves or divots under the strings. Dressing a fingerboard isn't expensive and it saves wear on the strings (as well as ensures proper intonation and action).
But body chemistry varies from one person to the next--some of us are more caustic than others.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Like Hup I've just put a set of Chromcors on (if they're good enough for Natalie Macmaster...) First impression is that they sound clean and clear and immediately stay in pitch. Maybe they're slightly quieter than the Evahs at first but they must need a little settling in time. I'll see how it goes (there's some very noisy venues, so a clear bright sound is possibly desirable). They are very finely made but it's a bit of a change to start playing on such thin strings. The Prims are steel rope core and they're interesting to play on once you get used to them. They have a rougher surface so you get plenty of friction with the bow. Probably ideal for old-time fiddling and sawmill kind of tunings. I just like to try stuff out - I might go back to Evahs because the cost isn't really an issue when you think of all the other things you have to spend money on like food and gas bills. Fiddle strings are much more important. BTW I'm don't lay claim to being a good fiddler - just improving from the level of total cr@p to the "thank god he's not as bad as he used to be" level!
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by RichardB
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I'm caustic, Will - it's a scientific fact.
Richard, Caih... O'Rall... plays Prims (I've got to learn how to
spell his name one of these days) and gets the most exquisite,
delicate tonal effects you can imagine. I've heard him live, with no
electronics or mikes. I did notice his E string whistled a lot, but
that might have been due to rosin or something. I'm at the same
level as you, Richard it sounds like.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Hup
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
RichardB I love your attitude about the importance of fiddle strings versus tedious things like food and gas bills. I bet you're all glad you don't play the harp - at least with fiddle strings they're generally cheaper than harp strings and there aren't 34 of them!
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Mark Harmer
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I'd say the Zyex were a bad batch, or simply that your fiddle just doesn't like them Will. Zyex are extremely loud, quite warm but brash at the same time. They're great if you want to cut through the mush of a big session, and they need to be played confidently because of the sheer volume they create. I always found them responsive, clear, and bright, but I've since settled on another set of strings which suit my fiddle better.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Dragut Reis
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I'm looking forward to the day when fiddle strings based on nanocarbon fibres come on the market - doubtlessly in a most interesting price range.
We can think ourselves lucky we don't all play the cello or bass. A decent set of strings for my cello is anything between £100-£150, so I make sure they last - not so difficult bow since I got a free transfer from my chamber orchestra's cello section to the violins, and I now only play the cello occasionally in band gigs.
I know a bass player who has been using the same set of steel strings for over 30 years.
Getting back to the subject in hand, I use Evahs on my old fiddle for orchestral playing, changing them about every 6 months or so, and Chromecores on my folk/session fiddle with a nice low action - I've haven't needed to change a Chromecore string yet after well over a year.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Trevor Jennings
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
"now" - not "bow"
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Trevor Jennings
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
The alternatives to Evahs I'd use would be a set of Obligatos, or Eudoxa G and D with a Chromecore A.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Trevor Jennings
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Once a year after my Christmas bath. Why?
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Steamwilkes
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
It's personal really. I think humidity, physicality of the player, cleanliness, string batch, tuning habits, climate changes (travel) and other such factors will effect string life.
My string review:
I use Chromcor and vision, like them both. Vision's are like Evah's when they are done, but when they first go on.. knock your socks off. Of course they are less expensive. I play anywhere from 30 min to 2-3 hours a day. They last from 4-6 months, since i Play that fiddle part time... I suppose they aren't really that long lived.
Chromcors, are much better than Helicore's I wouldn't compare them to Evah's... that's like oranges and apples. They are inexpensive, and loud and steely, and sound great under a mic, when I get rooked into the occaisional rock and roll gig they are a must have. So they are on fiddle B.
Zyex's felt like big rubber bands, I didn't like them.
Helicores are alright I have a Helicore A on my vision strung instrument at the moment, they don't last long so I figured it would die at roughly the same time as the visions.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by SandyBottoms
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Well, I tried every approach with the Zyex and they sounded awful no matter what. The Visions (Titanium Solos) with the Superflexible E sound super at every volume--I can whisper or push them as hard as a strong bow will go.
But every fiddle is different. Most of the pro fiddlers I've known (stateside) favor a relatively small range of strings--Evahs, Visions, Helicores, Chromcors, Prims, and a few that stick with Dominants.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Here's a suggestion - have your bow rehaired about once a year or every 18 months - although it will vary from player to player. Most players don't have rehairs done frequently enough (I'm as bad a sinner in this respect as anyone) - and this does tend to show up in the tone. If you try to compensate by piling on the rosin you're only making matters worse by stifling the tone of the string.
The bow rehairer will also tighten up the stick if it's got too bendy (in any direction), check the mechanics of the frog, and generally pass back to you a refurbished tool that will improve your playing. It also helps the guy's business.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Trevor Jennings
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I go through bow rehairs about every 8 months. Play too much.
# Posted on August 5th 2010 by Will Harmon
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I just switched from a cheap CF bow to a $1000 no-name European pernambuco. That has made quite a difference in tone
colour and responsiveness; I think I've overdone it with the rosin though
# Posted on August 6th 2010 by Hup
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Bows can be horses for courses. An £80 CF bow (no name) I was given a year or so ago has surprisingly turned out to be ideal for my Jay Haide fiddle (the one I use for sessions), surpassing in balance, tone and playability my two pernambuco bows as far as the Jay Haide is concerned, even though it is a couple of grammes heavier - not that I'm at all aware of that when using it. The pernambucos do have an edge over the CF when played on my 18th c fiddle, but the CF nevertheless is still a useful backup.
# Posted on August 6th 2010 by Trevor Jennings
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Forgive the transgression here, but professional violinists do a simple test.
In a very quiet place, pluck the string. If the pitch stays the same from the initial pluck through the sustain, then it's fine. If it changes pitch, replace it. Could be a new bad string, or one that's lasted a year or more. The other discussions give the "why" a string goes "false".
# Posted on August 7th 2010 by befrisky
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
I have noticed that befrisky although I didn't know it was an
official test
# Posted on August 7th 2010 by Hup
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Hey, wow befrisky - thanks for collecting those Fahey tunes.
Do you think you've found all the unique ones in the database?
# Posted on August 7th 2010 by Hup
Re: How often do you change fiddle strings?
Befrisky, you wrote;
In a very quiet place, pluck the string. If the pitch stays the same from the initial pluck through the sustain, then it's fine. If it changes pitch, replace it. Could be a new bad string, or one that's lasted a year or more. The other discussions give the "why" a string goes "false".
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That's interesting, where can I read these other discussions about why a string goes false?
# Posted on August 10th 2010 by Bernie 29