Is there anyone out there with experience of various strings on a Gliga Gama violin? I have been playing Dominants (one of the strings recommended by Gliga - Evahs being the other which I can't afford) most of the time, but I'm looking to produce more volume without sacrificing too much colour. Steels are a bit tricky because the action on the fiddle is fairly high, but maybe prims medium might be ok and do the trick?. Helicores sound a bit subdued. I've tried Visions which aren't bad but a tad one dimensional. I'm currently thinking of trying one of either Tonicas, Infeld Blues, Corelli crystal......
If your'e considering steel, there's the Pirastro Chromecore set which I'm currently using on my session fiddle. Beautifully smooth and easy under the fingers with a strong tone to match. If the action on your fiddle is high that's something that can easily be remedied by a violin technician (and should be if you're using any sort of string). The Chromecores are solid core and less than half the price of the Evahs, but have the same distinctive Pirastro quality.
If it's power you want, Evahs are the way to go . They're not that much more expensive than Dominants, and they generally last longer, so you save in the long run.
But as lazyhound says, if the action is high get it in to a violin repairer. Apart from making it more playable, he'll be able to give you a bit more projection in the cut of the bridge and a post adjustment.
Thanks for the advice - much appreciated. The nearest luthier to me's around 150 miles away, so I may have to attack it myself for a short term measure - I have fitted some bridges over the years. My concern is that I may lose volume by reducing the height. The bridge is of "regular" size" - the high action is caused by the angle of the neck to the body. There's probably a formula for working out the ratios somewhere. Maybe it's bullet biting time on the Evahs front.
Debroos, you'll almost certainly like the Evahs. I use them on my orchestral violin, and their stability is amazing, as is their power and dynamic range.
One important point that's only too often overlooked when talking about fiddle tone and projection is the bow. A good bow will have a big effect on tone, projection and playing. Apart from things like balance and playing response, such a bow will have a good signal/noise ratio, which means less bow noise and therefore more projection of the instrument's tone. Conversely, a lesser bow can dull the tone and make the instrument feel unproductive and harder to play.
I see that you live 150 miles from the nearest luthier. Would that be in Bristol? If so, it might be an idea to contact the very helpful people at Bristol Violin Shop and spend a while there trying out different bows - it really can take a few hours to decide on a bow. Have a look at their website for more information about bow selection - the relevant page is http://www.bristol-violin-shop.co.uk/index.php/page/browse/15.
I have a Gliga Gamma and had it adjusted by a very experienced luthier. He adjusted the nut, sound post and bridge. It made a great difference in the "ease" of playing it and has a wonderful full sound. I ususally use
Wondertone Solo strings on it.
IMO its a compromise between power and tone, for me I prefer a darker warmer tone, but I get that at the expense of power and projection. As such Evahs were not for me, not enough richness. I think its really down to the conditions you play in, loud sessions require a fiddle to cut through, while with solo playing quality of tone is more Important. Playing duets with a piper again requires a tone that will 'sit on top' of the chanters tone, or 'rest underneath it,' and of course it depends on the chanter/reed set up as to the chanter tone. If the chanter is shrill and edgy a warmer fiddle tone will match nicely and sit under the chanter but still will need to project.
It also depends on playing style, lots of fast triplets, rolls and right hand work will suit an edgier tone while more emphasis on double stops and drones will be happy with a broader more cohesive sound from the fiddle.
Every fiddle has different characteristics, so the string choice can complement these or minimize them. As LH so wisely says bow choice is an important aspect and can, to a limited degree, be used to accentuate or diminish fiddle/string tone combination.
A choice of bows helps me adapt to different playing condition but cant make up for the fiddle and string choice.
If it's a gama straight from the factory with no further set up done to it then strings won't make much difference at all.
The best thing you could spend your cash on would be having the bridge replaced, the fingerboard reworked and a new soundpost fitted.
I used to sell Gligas for a living and the set up is almost always shocking - a good set up will make the instrument much more powerful with good projection - something strings won't do - they will change the sound under the ear, but won't make much difference ten feet away in all honesty.
I'd get a good set up done and then add something like helicores to it but you should know that a gliga fiddle will never be very powerful - they have a lovely tone, but they don't project well (arching is often too high for that).
Sadly, that is normal for many fiddles sold straight from the factory with no further attention until they're in the players' hands. A typical litany is: an impossible-to-play action due to an impossibly high bridge, rubbish strings and "is the sound post really supposed to be that close to the bridge?". Ah! ... and I nearly forgot to mention mere inconsequential details like pegs that either don't hold or won't turn, micro tuners that don't, and grooves in the fingerboard nut that shred your strings ...
So, when buying from a music store perhaps one should ask them if they do a proper set up on their instruments by skilled staff prior to selling. If the answer is that they don't, can't or won't, then walk away.
I'll add that the specialist violin shops in my town go to professional lengths to ensure that everything they sell is set up to be eminently playable.
From what I gather on-line a lousy set-up certainly does seem to be the case with Gligas. I have just cut and fitted a hardwood lowered bridge replacing the balsa job that Gliga provided and stuck some helicores on the fiddle and the sound has already improved beyond recognition. This set up will have to do until I can get to Bristol and have it sorted professionally and maybe lash out on the Evahs. Many thanks to all for the time and effort to give me feedback - very inspiring.
strings for Gliga gama
strings for Gliga gama
Is there anyone out there with experience of various strings on a Gliga Gama violin? I have been playing Dominants (one of the strings recommended by Gliga - Evahs being the other which I can't afford) most of the time, but I'm looking to produce more volume without sacrificing too much colour. Steels are a bit tricky because the action on the fiddle is fairly high, but maybe prims medium might be ok and do the trick?. Helicores sound a bit subdued. I've tried Visions which aren't bad but a tad one dimensional. I'm currently thinking of trying one of either Tonicas, Infeld Blues, Corelli crystal......
# Posted on April 26th 2010 by debroos
Re: strings for Gliga gama
If your'e considering steel, there's the Pirastro Chromecore set which I'm currently using on my session fiddle. Beautifully smooth and easy under the fingers with a strong tone to match. If the action on your fiddle is high that's something that can easily be remedied by a violin technician (and should be if you're using any sort of string). The Chromecores are solid core and less than half the price of the Evahs, but have the same distinctive Pirastro quality.
# Posted on April 26th 2010 by Trevor Jennings
Re: strings for Gliga gama
If it's power you want, Evahs are the way to go . They're not that much more expensive than Dominants, and they generally last longer, so you save in the long run.
But as lazyhound says, if the action is high get it in to a violin repairer. Apart from making it more playable, he'll be able to give you a bit more projection in the cut of the bridge and a post adjustment.
# Posted on April 26th 2010 by skreech
Re: strings for Gliga gama
Thanks for the advice - much appreciated. The nearest luthier to me's around 150 miles away, so I may have to attack it myself for a short term measure - I have fitted some bridges over the years. My concern is that I may lose volume by reducing the height. The bridge is of "regular" size" - the high action is caused by the angle of the neck to the body. There's probably a formula for working out the ratios somewhere. Maybe it's bullet biting time on the Evahs front.
# Posted on April 27th 2010 by debroos
Re: strings for Gliga gama
Debroos, you'll almost certainly like the Evahs. I use them on my orchestral violin, and their stability is amazing, as is their power and dynamic range.
One important point that's only too often overlooked when talking about fiddle tone and projection is the bow. A good bow will have a big effect on tone, projection and playing. Apart from things like balance and playing response, such a bow will have a good signal/noise ratio, which means less bow noise and therefore more projection of the instrument's tone. Conversely, a lesser bow can dull the tone and make the instrument feel unproductive and harder to play.
I see that you live 150 miles from the nearest luthier. Would that be in Bristol? If so, it might be an idea to contact the very helpful people at Bristol Violin Shop and spend a while there trying out different bows - it really can take a few hours to decide on a bow. Have a look at their website for more information about bow selection - the relevant page is http://www.bristol-violin-shop.co.uk/index.php/page/browse/15.
# Posted on April 27th 2010 by Trevor Jennings
Re: strings for Gliga gama
Debroos,
I have a Gliga Gamma and had it adjusted by a very experienced luthier. He adjusted the nut, sound post and bridge. It made a great difference in the "ease" of playing it and has a wonderful full sound. I ususally use
Wondertone Solo strings on it.
Good luck with yours.
Mary
# Posted on April 27th 2010 by Antikhntr
Re: strings for Gliga gama
IMO its a compromise between power and tone, for me I prefer a darker warmer tone, but I get that at the expense of power and projection. As such Evahs were not for me, not enough richness. I think its really down to the conditions you play in, loud sessions require a fiddle to cut through, while with solo playing quality of tone is more Important. Playing duets with a piper again requires a tone that will 'sit on top' of the chanters tone, or 'rest underneath it,' and of course it depends on the chanter/reed set up as to the chanter tone. If the chanter is shrill and edgy a warmer fiddle tone will match nicely and sit under the chanter but still will need to project.
It also depends on playing style, lots of fast triplets, rolls and right hand work will suit an edgier tone while more emphasis on double stops and drones will be happy with a broader more cohesive sound from the fiddle.
Every fiddle has different characteristics, so the string choice can complement these or minimize them. As LH so wisely says bow choice is an important aspect and can, to a limited degree, be used to accentuate or diminish fiddle/string tone combination.
A choice of bows helps me adapt to different playing condition but cant make up for the fiddle and string choice.
# Posted on April 27th 2010 by piobagusfidil
Re: strings for Gliga gama
If it's a gama straight from the factory with no further set up done to it then strings won't make much difference at all.
The best thing you could spend your cash on would be having the bridge replaced, the fingerboard reworked and a new soundpost fitted.
I used to sell Gligas for a living and the set up is almost always shocking - a good set up will make the instrument much more powerful with good projection - something strings won't do - they will change the sound under the ear, but won't make much difference ten feet away in all honesty.
I'd get a good set up done and then add something like helicores to it but you should know that a gliga fiddle will never be very powerful - they have a lovely tone, but they don't project well (arching is often too high for that).
# Posted on April 27th 2010 by rosfrog
Re: strings for Gliga gama
Sadly, that is normal for many fiddles sold straight from the factory with no further attention until they're in the players' hands. A typical litany is: an impossible-to-play action due to an impossibly high bridge, rubbish strings and "is the sound post really supposed to be that close to the bridge?". Ah! ... and I nearly forgot to mention mere inconsequential details like pegs that either don't hold or won't turn, micro tuners that don't, and grooves in the fingerboard nut that shred your strings ...
So, when buying from a music store perhaps one should ask them if they do a proper set up on their instruments by skilled staff prior to selling. If the answer is that they don't, can't or won't, then walk away.
I'll add that the specialist violin shops in my town go to professional lengths to ensure that everything they sell is set up to be eminently playable.
# Posted on April 27th 2010 by Trevor Jennings
Re: strings for Gliga gama
From what I gather on-line a lousy set-up certainly does seem to be the case with Gligas. I have just cut and fitted a hardwood lowered bridge replacing the balsa job that Gliga provided and stuck some helicores on the fiddle and the sound has already improved beyond recognition. This set up will have to do until I can get to Bristol and have it sorted professionally and maybe lash out on the Evahs. Many thanks to all for the time and effort to give me feedback - very inspiring.
# Posted on April 27th 2010 by debroos