No I'm not eating them but I seem to do through them at an alarming rate. For a long time I used Dominants but have now changed to Infeld Blue. I like the feel and the tone, but what I don't like is the rate at which A and D strings thin out under my 2nd and 3rd finger and very quickly get ragged and need replacing. I have been told it is oil or sweat on my hands and try to make sure I wash them before picking up the fiddle but it is not making much difference. At a session in the pub do I need a finder bowl to maintain a clean finger tip? Any suggestions? How come guitar strings cost a tenth the price and last ten times as long. It don't seem right!
I've tried several different strings over the past 3 years. I've found
anything that's Aluminum wound lasts 5-7 weeks only. It doesn't make
any difference if I wash my hands or have super-short fingernails. It
seems to be a chemical process. Hydronalium doesn't last any longer
than regular Aluminum.
Other winding types don't physically break down. Unfortunately almost all A strings are Al - wound. What I've done recently is
replace the A string - when the winding inevitably breaks down -
with a Chromcore A. Then I can keep the set going for 6 months
or so until the tone gets too dead.
I haven't seen this acknowledged on string manufacturer's web sites.
They explain the black finger tips as lubricants chemicals coming through
the winding. What it is actually is the Aluminum itself breaking down.
It would really cut into their revenue if they provided alternatives.
Aluminum does take the edge off the A string sound though. The Chromcore
has a bright fairly harsh sound.
I would say I go through the A about once every 5 weeks or so. the D lasts a bit longer but is still fairly short lived. I just replace with a new string, don't worry about sets because I can buy them individually. But it seems I have only just put a new one on and got it settled in and the winding is starting to fray. I do get very black fingertips. How much do I play? Most days - sometimes a half hour somedays 4 hours.
I used to have that problem with D'Addario Zyex and Helicore, but the problem has pretty much abated now that I clean the strings thoroughly after each session of playing. Cleaning the strings with methylated spirits once a week or so is also very helpful, as it removes the rosin and sweat build-up that is so corrosive to the aluminium casing.
I have recently taken to cleaning my Dominent fiddle strings with "Fret Fast" this commercially produced string reviver is used a lot by guitarists and a tin lasts for years. I do not know what the long term effects will be as I have only just started using it but the initial results do seem to have improved volume and tone of my strings. Previously to this I would just wipe off the rosin with a dry cloth.
I stil have the original strings which came with the fiddle from back in '89. They are still in the original tuning, out of the box, when it arrived from Korea.
I do not use rosin, as it creates friction, adding increased mileage, not to mention (though i will) scattering the nasty flakey white stuff all over the top of the fiddle, and getting into the F holes, which means I have to rinse the thing out with Guinness again, let it dry, then get out the Hoover and clean it all out, along with the cobwebs.
Where does the string fray? If it's at the nut or bridge groove that's where the problem is and the faulty groove needs to be properly shaped ans smoothed, and lubricated with pencil lead graphite.
If the string frays in the fingering area I'd look at things like the height of the action and finger technique (I'm assuming nails are short and fingers clean, etc). If the action is high then every time the string is pressed down onto the fingerboard there is some stretching of the string and eventually the winding is likely to loosen on the core and start to fray. Remedy - have the lowest action you can get away with without the strings buzzing.
If the finger technique is such that the player hammers the finger down onto the string and into the fingerboard then unnecessary energy is being expended and this too will eventually have an adverse effect on the winding. Further, the "hammering" technique doesn't do finger joints any good in the long run, is tiring, isn't particularly friendly to relaxed playing, and is actually a slower technique than a gentler (but just as fast or even faster) finger movement. Try this - while bowing a note try pressing the string down gently until you get a clear tone; the likelihood will be that the string isn't actually touching the fingerboard at that point even though the finger is.
I have been playing the fiddle for more than 8 years and have yet to have a string fray or break. I change strings when a tonal change or slower response becomes obvious - this is generally at about 6-9 months.
I've been a cellist for 60 years and only once had a string fail in a concert - it was an early Dominant D and the winding suddenly loosened. It also happened at around the same time to a couple of other cellists I knew, so it was probably a bad batch. I change cello strings for the same reason as fiddle strings, but about every two years - cello strings are made of sterner stuff (just as well, given their cost!)
I forgot to mention the string fraying or getting over-worn in the bowing area. It seems to be fairly uncommon, and when it occurs it is likely to be due to excessive bowing pressure physically damaging the string, particularly if the stick of the bow contacts the string. The solution usually lies in instruction in good bowing technique.
Regular cleaning of the strings after playing will reveal any damage.
I'm convinced in my case it's simple corrosion caused by playing
in the D and G key clusters all the time and hitting D a lot in rolls. It
wears first at the D position, then B with the wear spreading
gradually up and down through C/C#. My luthier said he set the action
at the normal level he would use for any classical player but maybe it's
time to try it lower as you suggest lazyhound.
I stil have the original strings which came with the fiddle from back in '89. They are still in the original tuning, out of the box, when it arrived from Korea.
I do not use rosin, as it creates friction, adding increased mileage, not to mention (though i will) scattering the nasty flakey white stuff all over the top of the fiddle, and getting into the F holes, which means I have to rinse the thing out with Guinness again, let it dry, then get out the Hoover and clean it all out, along with the cobwebs.
It's just too much fuss, I tell thee.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by Rook
No rosin and strings from "89" eh?, my guess is you dont play it then ;)
I have exactly the same problem. Sometimes a string will last only a couple of weeks, or about forty hours. As redh sedh, they can do it with guitar strings. I think string manufacturers are milking players blind (if you can do that to somebody), working on the principle that violinists have loads of money. I have tried painting a little nail varnish over the first position part of the A string, which seems to work a bit, but is a lot of bother. Also super glue, which works too, but can make a mess of the fingerboard if you don't watch it. I pay about the same to string makers as I do to insure my house! I'm going to stop thinking about it. Aagh!
Gam, there are some bare gut strings (E,A,D) available that are coated with a varnish to prolong their playing life over the unvarnished version. Although bare gut strings were in common use up to about 50 years ago, today they are more the preserve of the serious Baroque and Early Music players, although a few classical players today still use a bare gut A as playing better than the covered gut A - but it's largely a matter of personal preference.
As indicated in your original post, redh, I fear you may have been told your answer already. My teacher told me that some of her students wear out strings at an alarming rate. One teenage boy needed a new set every eight weeks. They wear out where you describe, under the fingers. Unfortunately, the answer seems to be the action of the individual's body chemistry on the string. I doubt washing etc would make any difference.
I was considering whether I should maybe treat myself to a new set of strings. I still have the original set of four years ago and there is no sign of wear although they don't sound so bright as before. And yes I use rosin and I play every day and two sessions a week.
It can help if you put a VERY small quantity of olive oil on the tips of your (left-hand) fingers. It's an old trick used when people played on bare gut - it made the string less likely to fray, and last longer - and I think it may reduce the effect of an individual's body chemistry on modern wound strings, as well as giving a smoother feel when playing. Obviously, don't let the olive oil anywhere near the bowed part of the strings!
Fiddle string consumption
Fiddle string consumption
No I'm not eating them but I seem to do through them at an alarming rate. For a long time I used Dominants but have now changed to Infeld Blue. I like the feel and the tone, but what I don't like is the rate at which A and D strings thin out under my 2nd and 3rd finger and very quickly get ragged and need replacing. I have been told it is oil or sweat on my hands and try to make sure I wash them before picking up the fiddle but it is not making much difference. At a session in the pub do I need a finder bowl to maintain a clean finger tip? Any suggestions? How come guitar strings cost a tenth the price and last ten times as long. It don't seem right!
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by redh
Re: Fiddle string consumption
How often are you going through them? How many playing hours do you estimate you're getting out of a set of strings?
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by irishfiddler32
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I've tried several different strings over the past 3 years. I've found
anything that's Aluminum wound lasts 5-7 weeks only. It doesn't make
any difference if I wash my hands or have super-short fingernails. It
seems to be a chemical process. Hydronalium doesn't last any longer
than regular Aluminum.
Other winding types don't physically break down. Unfortunately almost all A strings are Al - wound. What I've done recently is
replace the A string - when the winding inevitably breaks down -
with a Chromcore A. Then I can keep the set going for 6 months
or so until the tone gets too dead.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by Hup
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I haven't seen this acknowledged on string manufacturer's web sites.
They explain the black finger tips as lubricants chemicals coming through
the winding. What it is actually is the Aluminum itself breaking down.
It would really cut into their revenue if they provided alternatives.
Aluminum does take the edge off the A string sound though. The Chromcore
has a bright fairly harsh sound.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by Hup
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I would say I go through the A about once every 5 weeks or so. the D lasts a bit longer but is still fairly short lived. I just replace with a new string, don't worry about sets because I can buy them individually. But it seems I have only just put a new one on and got it settled in and the winding is starting to fray. I do get very black fingertips. How much do I play? Most days - sometimes a half hour somedays 4 hours.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by redh
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I used to have that problem with D'Addario Zyex and Helicore, but the problem has pretty much abated now that I clean the strings thoroughly after each session of playing. Cleaning the strings with methylated spirits once a week or so is also very helpful, as it removes the rosin and sweat build-up that is so corrosive to the aluminium casing.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by Robert Ryan
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I have recently taken to cleaning my Dominent fiddle strings with "Fret Fast" this commercially produced string reviver is used a lot by guitarists and a tin lasts for years. I do not know what the long term effects will be as I have only just started using it but the initial results do seem to have improved volume and tone of my strings. Previously to this I would just wipe off the rosin with a dry cloth.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by Stoneyjohn
Re: Fiddle string consumption
Cleaning the strings makes no difference for me - it might add
a week onto the lifespan but that's not significant. I'd want
5 months added.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by Hup
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I stil have the original strings which came with the fiddle from back in '89. They are still in the original tuning, out of the box, when it arrived from Korea.
I do not use rosin, as it creates friction, adding increased mileage, not to mention (though i will) scattering the nasty flakey white stuff all over the top of the fiddle, and getting into the F holes, which means I have to rinse the thing out with Guinness again, let it dry, then get out the Hoover and clean it all out, along with the cobwebs.
It's just too much fuss, I tell thee.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by Rook
Re: Fiddle string consumption
Where does the string fray? If it's at the nut or bridge groove that's where the problem is and the faulty groove needs to be properly shaped ans smoothed, and lubricated with pencil lead graphite.
If the string frays in the fingering area I'd look at things like the height of the action and finger technique (I'm assuming nails are short and fingers clean, etc). If the action is high then every time the string is pressed down onto the fingerboard there is some stretching of the string and eventually the winding is likely to loosen on the core and start to fray. Remedy - have the lowest action you can get away with without the strings buzzing.
If the finger technique is such that the player hammers the finger down onto the string and into the fingerboard then unnecessary energy is being expended and this too will eventually have an adverse effect on the winding. Further, the "hammering" technique doesn't do finger joints any good in the long run, is tiring, isn't particularly friendly to relaxed playing, and is actually a slower technique than a gentler (but just as fast or even faster) finger movement. Try this - while bowing a note try pressing the string down gently until you get a clear tone; the likelihood will be that the string isn't actually touching the fingerboard at that point even though the finger is.
I have been playing the fiddle for more than 8 years and have yet to have a string fray or break. I change strings when a tonal change or slower response becomes obvious - this is generally at about 6-9 months.
I've been a cellist for 60 years and only once had a string fail in a concert - it was an early Dominant D and the winding suddenly loosened. It also happened at around the same time to a couple of other cellists I knew, so it was probably a bad batch. I change cello strings for the same reason as fiddle strings, but about every two years - cello strings are made of sterner stuff (just as well, given their cost!)
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by lazyhound
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I forgot to mention the string fraying or getting over-worn in the bowing area. It seems to be fairly uncommon, and when it occurs it is likely to be due to excessive bowing pressure physically damaging the string, particularly if the stick of the bow contacts the string. The solution usually lies in instruction in good bowing technique.
Regular cleaning of the strings after playing will reveal any damage.
# Posted on September 22nd 2009 by lazyhound
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I'm convinced in my case it's simple corrosion caused by playing
in the D and G key clusters all the time and hitting D a lot in rolls. It
wears first at the D position, then B with the wear spreading
gradually up and down through C/C#. My luthier said he set the action
at the normal level he would use for any classical player but maybe it's
time to try it lower as you suggest lazyhound.
# Posted on September 22nd 2009 by Hup
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I stil have the original strings which came with the fiddle from back in '89. They are still in the original tuning, out of the box, when it arrived from Korea.
I do not use rosin, as it creates friction, adding increased mileage, not to mention (though i will) scattering the nasty flakey white stuff all over the top of the fiddle, and getting into the F holes, which means I have to rinse the thing out with Guinness again, let it dry, then get out the Hoover and clean it all out, along with the cobwebs.
It's just too much fuss, I tell thee.
# Posted on September 21st 2009 by Rook
No rosin and strings from "89" eh?, my guess is you dont play it then ;)
# Posted on September 22nd 2009 by Barry1963
Re: Fiddle string consumption
Not playing is one of the solutions I am considering
I'm starting to
get into concertina and flute.
# Posted on September 22nd 2009 by Hup
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I have exactly the same problem. Sometimes a string will last only a couple of weeks, or about forty hours. As redh sedh, they can do it with guitar strings. I think string manufacturers are milking players blind (if you can do that to somebody), working on the principle that violinists have loads of money. I have tried painting a little nail varnish over the first position part of the A string, which seems to work a bit, but is a lot of bother. Also super glue, which works too, but can make a mess of the fingerboard if you don't watch it. I pay about the same to string makers as I do to insure my house! I'm going to stop thinking about it. Aagh!
# Posted on September 22nd 2009 by gam
Re: Fiddle string consumption
Gam, there are some bare gut strings (E,A,D) available that are coated with a varnish to prolong their playing life over the unvarnished version. Although bare gut strings were in common use up to about 50 years ago, today they are more the preserve of the serious Baroque and Early Music players, although a few classical players today still use a bare gut A as playing better than the covered gut A - but it's largely a matter of personal preference.
# Posted on September 22nd 2009 by lazyhound
Re: Fiddle string consumption
As indicated in your original post, redh, I fear you may have been told your answer already. My teacher told me that some of her students wear out strings at an alarming rate. One teenage boy needed a new set every eight weeks. They wear out where you describe, under the fingers. Unfortunately, the answer seems to be the action of the individual's body chemistry on the string. I doubt washing etc would make any difference.
I was considering whether I should maybe treat myself to a new set of strings. I still have the original set of four years ago and there is no sign of wear although they don't sound so bright as before. And yes I use rosin and I play every day and two sessions a week.
You do have my sympathy.
# Posted on September 22nd 2009 by sashiko calico
Re: Fiddle string consumption
It can help if you put a VERY small quantity of olive oil on the tips of your (left-hand) fingers. It's an old trick used when people played on bare gut - it made the string less likely to fray, and last longer - and I think it may reduce the effect of an individual's body chemistry on modern wound strings, as well as giving a smoother feel when playing. Obviously, don't let the olive oil anywhere near the bowed part of the strings!
# Posted on September 23rd 2009 by lazyhound
Re: Fiddle string consumption
I have this exact same problem, My A string and sometimes my D string fray and the folks at the music store make fun of me .
# Posted on September 24th 2009 by Earl Cameron