People said Doolin was changed, regretfully. They said the music wasn’t what it was – Ennis was the best place for the music in Ireland, but nobody seemed really sure. Doolin was full of empty holiday homes they said, not what it used to be. (I'd last been there in 1990, so it could have been a stark comparison.)
A recent six-week immersion in the general area gave me the opportunity and time enough to absorb the scene and generate some perspectives on the current (Spring 2009) music in Clare, at least – which I pass on for collective benefit.
I happened to arrive on St Patrick’s day where, I’m not sure how or why through the jetlag, found myself in Linnane’s Kilfenora at the same time as what might well have been the best session in the universe at the time. Pity it is only put on once a year, on this day, by your man. Totally local musicians, absolutely brilliant.
Pubs seem to be feeling the pinch in the recession, and scaling down gig sessions, although at Linnane’s you could barely get in the door. (There is no recession in Linnane's.)The back room at Linnane’s is brilliant for a session, and it was an interesting and apprehensive challenge to fit some bodhran playing in among the session there attended mostly by local musicians who also happen to play in the Kilfenora Ceili Band. A high compliment also to be told how much they enjoyed the bodhran that evening, and something about it being played in the right hands. Anyway, it was very confidence-building feedback in that particular context. A lot to do as well, I think, with the really nice tuneable bodhrans made locally by Dave Spencer at Doolin.
Nagles across the road has music sometimes, and Vaughans down the road of course has the twice weekly ceili Thursday and Sunday nights - *with* the Kilfenora Ceili Band, of course. Brilliant dancers, brilliant band, great space.
A brief drive down the backroads brings you to Doolin of course. Kevin Griffin and band (Geraldine and Shay McGowan) plays most nights of the week, possible exceptions Monday and Tuesday night. Listening to Kevin and friends is an absolute lesson in rhythm, among other things which Kevin is reported as a stickler for. Irresistible. I went back a number of times every week. The band is tastefully miked for good reason, but still has the atmosphere of a session. Visiting players appear to be welcomed. Geraldine is just a brilliant singer, a gun bodhran player as well, and just one of the world's really nice people. Get there early if you want a seat, but you’ll hear the music even out the back over the din because of the miking, but it isn't overbearing at all. The Roadside at Lisdoonvarna has sessions Friday and Saturday.
O’Connors of course has music most nights, the ubiquitous and very friendly Christy Barry, Michael Kelliher, Colin Lee, Gary Shannon, and a range of other local legends from ‘old Doolin’. Great craic and a great opportunity to play along with the local legends while we’re all still going strong. Who could forget the craic about which is better the Tulla or the Kilfenora between Christy and JJ Conway outside O’Connor at 2am one fine night! O’Connors is also graced by landlady Teresa Flaherty Sexton, who has one of the biggest hearts you will find anywhere, and also has the apparent ability to outstay any of the locals, or visitors, if you thought you were going to go home early!
Fitz’s Cross has music most nights, and there was Michael Grinter sitting in on the session, jetlagged, arrived that day from Australia for his annual six monthly flute-making stay in Ennis, together with the boys from the Ennis sessions, where there are any number, but you have to hit the town. You could start at the Old Ground on the Friday night where where is a cracking session, as well, of course, as Eoin O’Neill and friends at Brogans a few nights a week. From these, on enquiring, you will no doubt enter into a never-ending musical realm around the town – and then the rest of Clare! I found it very efficient to help plan a musical itinerary by tuning into to ClareFM long term, it’s a brilliant resource as to what’s happening in advance.
I was lucky enough to have hired a brilliant renovated trad house with all the mod cons and a huge open fireplace topped up with local peat supply by your man, on the back road from Kilshanny to Lisdoonvarna, which happened to be midway between these immediate villages, and about a 40 minute drive to Ennis. I’d totally recommend it for a holidaying musical group. Four bedrooms, brilliant kitchen, plenty of room, quiet, and no neighbours to worry with an all-night session, if that’s what you want to do, and not more than a 5 to 15 minute max drive to all surrounding sessions (and all on the back roads - if that’s what you’re comfortable with, and want to avoid the traffic - such as it is.)
Doolin has indeed changed, I believe – it has gotten older, it has mellowed, but that’s ok, don’t we all. You might need more time there to find it, but it is definitely still flyin’.
Sounds lovely. One's measure of change is about time. My own goes back to the 70s and Fishguard Road / Doolin, and the Aran Islands and surrounds... On one visit to Inis Mann it was having its first paved road...
There really is something quite unique about hearing the music in the home context. All I can say is, do the planning before you arrive, go visit some ancient sites, never mind how hard they are to get to, spend the days there soaking up the atmosphere and maybe doing some in-depth reading about the history and folklore about what it is you are standing near - *then* go to the music at night. Adds a whole extra dimension imho. Loved it.
&, if you can, giving it time and staying put in a general area, a six weeks is a brilliant way to do that. I'd recommend a minimum of 4 weeks, and get to know a give area, not trying to see the whole damned country in a few days... Do the place and the people justice, which it sounds like you've done admirably DD...
This time I was determined to do it this way, ceolachan. The more you stay in one place there, the more you realise that's what you need to do to get into it - that's the sort of place Ireland is - "microcosmic" perhaps?! I find I can learn more looking at the fine detail than you can covering a lot of area. Sure, take some day trips out - Connemara is stunning and just up the road really, but you can do a 'world tour' of north-west Clare just as easily. You're right, in Ireland, I think you have to - 'stop', and 'listen' and 'imagine' - and get to know the people, and let them get to know you. It was brilliant. Life-changing - again!
....and walk.... Driving everywhere is like living in your own little bubble divorced from the outside world, which is seen through the windscreen like a large TV .. Get out in the rain and wind , commune with the elements.
It wouldn't rain when I was there, dammit. I had to walk for miles and miles over the Burren in the sun for godsakes! Ahhh, happens every time! I wanna see an arctic gale and lashing wind and rain.
How long were you here for?! it didnt rain!!! six weeks? ! I dont believe it! six hours ok but....
Anyhow think yourself lucky, you must have brought the sun with you?
I did bring it with me, I always do, dammit! It rained a little bit in the mornings but was clear by the time I was ready to go out!! How unfair. And I told them, that the day I leave is the day it will start raining again - and it did! They have text me to complain about it already, so I know.
There´s a story about a Clare FM presenter (I think it was Cormac McConnell) who was talking on the phone to somebody at home (i.e. not on his programme) and he interrupted the conversation to say:" Just a minute, I´ll call you back. It´s just started raining and I want to go outside and savour it".
Now it may have been after a period of drought (drought in Ireland is more than 3 days without rain) or it may have been to enjoy that beautiful smell of wet earth.
I was travelling incognito under my real name, Ionannas, so you wouldn't have known me from whoever, you know what I mean? Anyway, I wasn't about to start saying to people "hey, I'm duijera dubh, how do you do", only do that sort of caper here, not in the real world!
Would you believe it, the weather bureau predicted an arctic gale at one stage, (excellent, you don't get many of those in Australia at all) so I excitedly got the fire place loaded up with peat, got the malt whiskey, poteen and long safety match to the ready, reels, jigs and sean nos going on the CD player (this was very late at night after gettin home from the session), and wouldn't you know it, the damn thing WIMPED OUT! What is this - climate change?! I got p*ssed off about it, then I just got p*ssed on the whiskey.
I can certainly believe the Arctic gale, Its just after finishing!
But I cant see the brown basted look to be honest, just a slightly redder shade of pasty white
There is a Connemara single malt? Where can I find it? Does one have to go on a mission to Connemara or can it be found elsewhere in Clare? Tracking such a thing down might be one of my main goals during Willie Week.
Someone will have to direct me to them, ceol. Every time I am in Ireland I find the whisky situation very depressing. I clearly just don't know where to look.
www.connemarawhiskey.com - and there is a cask strength one as well. You can get it at Dunnes in Ennis - on your way to Willie Week. I didn't see it at Supa Valu or anywhere west of Mount Callan, so you better stock up.I'd buy two if I were you. To start with anyway.
The cask strength I only saw at Shannon duty free I think it was, so probably Dublin as well, if you're going that way.
Can be a hard slog against the wind though, with a lashing gale!. brrr , and its worse in the winter! Think I prefer DD's turf fire and Whishky... with a few tunes , yes a lashing gale is best experienced from inside by the fire!
Everyone is Fianna Fail in those parts - that's what they told me. Anyway, it was like a local passport, so it's all good.
Hey, there's a pretty good commercial poteen available as well. Not bad. I think from memory it has a white and red and black label (possibly with a skull and crossbones motif on it too, but that might just be my imagine the morning after). You can get it from the Burren Smokehouse at Lisdoonvarna. Add water though or it will strip your throat, I kid you not.
I want some of that cask strength. My usual tipple was Jameson's Crested Ten, along with a pint of the dark stuff. They don't sell it this side of the Irish sea, sadly, but the dated stuff is nice too, but I'd love a bottle of that cask strength, one I haven't had the pleasure of as yet...
Australian!? And I haven't even tried the Japanese take on it yet. I guess there is much to look forward to in life, with regards to spirits of one form or another... The worst burn I ever experienced, worst than poteen or white lightening, was an Austrian rum, Stroh, some extra, extra strength version, definitely for sipping... Huh, a UK site:
FYI ~ the dance music at Vaughan's Barn is provided by the Four Courts Céilí Band (not the 10 piece Kilfenora Céilí Band): Peter Griffin, Joe Rynne, Chris Droney, Mr & Mrs Brendan Vaughan, sometimes Aidan Vaughan.
Geraldine McGowan also does the most stunning unaccompanied version in a sean nos style of the U2 song, 'I still haven't found what I'm looking for'. That quietens McGanns without a shhh to be heard. Catch it if you can, brilliant.
They're also selling aran jumpers made from Australian merino wool at Doolin - *at friggin' last*!! - that only took about 120 years - longer than the Kilfenora Ceili Band. Very historic!
Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
People said Doolin was changed, regretfully. They said the music wasn’t what it was – Ennis was the best place for the music in Ireland, but nobody seemed really sure. Doolin was full of empty holiday homes they said, not what it used to be. (I'd last been there in 1990, so it could have been a stark comparison.)
A recent six-week immersion in the general area gave me the opportunity and time enough to absorb the scene and generate some perspectives on the current (Spring 2009) music in Clare, at least – which I pass on for collective benefit.
I happened to arrive on St Patrick’s day where, I’m not sure how or why through the jetlag, found myself in Linnane’s Kilfenora at the same time as what might well have been the best session in the universe at the time. Pity it is only put on once a year, on this day, by your man. Totally local musicians, absolutely brilliant.
Pubs seem to be feeling the pinch in the recession, and scaling down gig sessions, although at Linnane’s you could barely get in the door. (There is no recession in Linnane's.)The back room at Linnane’s is brilliant for a session, and it was an interesting and apprehensive challenge to fit some bodhran playing in among the session there attended mostly by local musicians who also happen to play in the Kilfenora Ceili Band. A high compliment also to be told how much they enjoyed the bodhran that evening, and something about it being played in the right hands. Anyway, it was very confidence-building feedback in that particular context. A lot to do as well, I think, with the really nice tuneable bodhrans made locally by Dave Spencer at Doolin.
Nagles across the road has music sometimes, and Vaughans down the road of course has the twice weekly ceili Thursday and Sunday nights - *with* the Kilfenora Ceili Band, of course. Brilliant dancers, brilliant band, great space.
A brief drive down the backroads brings you to Doolin of course. Kevin Griffin and band (Geraldine and Shay McGowan) plays most nights of the week, possible exceptions Monday and Tuesday night. Listening to Kevin and friends is an absolute lesson in rhythm, among other things which Kevin is reported as a stickler for. Irresistible. I went back a number of times every week. The band is tastefully miked for good reason, but still has the atmosphere of a session. Visiting players appear to be welcomed. Geraldine is just a brilliant singer, a gun bodhran player as well, and just one of the world's really nice people. Get there early if you want a seat, but you’ll hear the music even out the back over the din because of the miking, but it isn't overbearing at all. The Roadside at Lisdoonvarna has sessions Friday and Saturday.
O’Connors of course has music most nights, the ubiquitous and very friendly Christy Barry, Michael Kelliher, Colin Lee, Gary Shannon, and a range of other local legends from ‘old Doolin’. Great craic and a great opportunity to play along with the local legends while we’re all still going strong. Who could forget the craic about which is better the Tulla or the Kilfenora between Christy and JJ Conway outside O’Connor at 2am one fine night! O’Connors is also graced by landlady Teresa Flaherty Sexton, who has one of the biggest hearts you will find anywhere, and also has the apparent ability to outstay any of the locals, or visitors, if you thought you were going to go home early!
Fitz’s Cross has music most nights, and there was Michael Grinter sitting in on the session, jetlagged, arrived that day from Australia for his annual six monthly flute-making stay in Ennis, together with the boys from the Ennis sessions, where there are any number, but you have to hit the town. You could start at the Old Ground on the Friday night where where is a cracking session, as well, of course, as Eoin O’Neill and friends at Brogans a few nights a week. From these, on enquiring, you will no doubt enter into a never-ending musical realm around the town – and then the rest of Clare! I found it very efficient to help plan a musical itinerary by tuning into to ClareFM long term, it’s a brilliant resource as to what’s happening in advance.
I was lucky enough to have hired a brilliant renovated trad house with all the mod cons and a huge open fireplace topped up with local peat supply by your man, on the back road from Kilshanny to Lisdoonvarna, which happened to be midway between these immediate villages, and about a 40 minute drive to Ennis. I’d totally recommend it for a holidaying musical group. Four bedrooms, brilliant kitchen, plenty of room, quiet, and no neighbours to worry with an all-night session, if that’s what you want to do, and not more than a 5 to 15 minute max drive to all surrounding sessions (and all on the back roads - if that’s what you’re comfortable with, and want to avoid the traffic - such as it is.)
Doolin has indeed changed, I believe – it has gotten older, it has mellowed, but that’s ok, don’t we all. You might need more time there to find it, but it is definitely still flyin’.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Glad to hear you enjoyed it here!
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by seaniemcg
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Sounds lovely. One's measure of change is about time. My own goes back to the 70s and Fishguard Road / Doolin, and the Aran Islands and surrounds... On one visit to Inis Mann it was having its first paved road...
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by ceolachan
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
There really is something quite unique about hearing the music in the home context. All I can say is, do the planning before you arrive, go visit some ancient sites, never mind how hard they are to get to, spend the days there soaking up the atmosphere and maybe doing some in-depth reading about the history and folklore about what it is you are standing near - *then* go to the music at night. Adds a whole extra dimension imho. Loved it.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
&, if you can, giving it time and staying put in a general area, a six weeks is a brilliant way to do that. I'd recommend a minimum of 4 weeks, and get to know a give area, not trying to see the whole damned country in a few days... Do the place and the people justice, which it sounds like you've done admirably DD...
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by ceolachan
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
This time I was determined to do it this way, ceolachan. The more you stay in one place there, the more you realise that's what you need to do to get into it - that's the sort of place Ireland is - "microcosmic" perhaps?! I find I can learn more looking at the fine detail than you can covering a lot of area. Sure, take some day trips out - Connemara is stunning and just up the road really, but you can do a 'world tour' of north-west Clare just as easily. You're right, in Ireland, I think you have to - 'stop', and 'listen' and 'imagine' - and get to know the people, and let them get to know you. It was brilliant. Life-changing - again!
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
DD...I don't suppose you've thought of running for a seat on Clare County Council...........lol.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Free Reed
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Hmm, well actually...having a relative in Clare who is a local Fianna Fail delegate helped get me known around the place fairly quickly I guess. So...
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
....and walk.... Driving everywhere is like living in your own little bubble divorced from the outside world, which is seen through the windscreen like a large TV .. Get out in the rain and wind , commune with the elements.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by the wicked hacker
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
It wouldn't rain when I was there, dammit. I had to walk for miles and miles over the Burren in the sun for godsakes! Ahhh, happens every time! I wanna see an arctic gale and lashing wind and rain.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
How long were you here for?! it didnt rain!!! six weeks? ! I dont believe it! six hours ok but....
Anyhow think yourself lucky, you must have brought the sun with you?
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by the wicked hacker
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
I did bring it with me, I always do, dammit! It rained a little bit in the mornings but was clear by the time I was ready to go out!! How unfair. And I told them, that the day I leave is the day it will start raining again - and it did! They have text me to complain about it already, so I know.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
...
and how come you didnt mention your visit to yer session mates here huh? huh? [mock indignation] especially if you bring the sun with you...
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by the wicked hacker
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
There´s a story about a Clare FM presenter (I think it was Cormac McConnell) who was talking on the phone to somebody at home (i.e. not on his programme) and he interrupted the conversation to say:" Just a minute, I´ll call you back. It´s just started raining and I want to go outside and savour it".
Now it may have been after a period of drought (drought in Ireland is more than 3 days without rain) or it may have been to enjoy that beautiful smell of wet earth.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by murfbox
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
I was travelling incognito under my real name, Ionannas, so you wouldn't have known me from whoever, you know what I mean? Anyway, I wasn't about to start saying to people "hey, I'm duijera dubh, how do you do", only do that sort of caper here, not in the real world!
Would you believe it, the weather bureau predicted an arctic gale at one stage, (excellent, you don't get many of those in Australia at all) so I excitedly got the fire place loaded up with peat, got the malt whiskey, poteen and long safety match to the ready, reels, jigs and sean nos going on the CD player (this was very late at night after gettin home from the session), and wouldn't you know it, the damn thing WIMPED OUT! What is this - climate change?! I got p*ssed off about it, then I just got p*ssed on the whiskey.
Anyway, next time I will tell you, so watch out.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Connemara peated single malt whiskey is a class act by the way, imho - goes great with open peat fires after the session.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Cool, Ill be waiting with my sunscreen
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by the wicked hacker
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
...and coconut oil. (for that extra brown basted look)
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
I can certainly believe the Arctic gale, Its just after finishing!
But I cant see the brown basted look to be honest, just a slightly redder shade of pasty white
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by the wicked hacker
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
It's about the same brown as the colour of the thread heading here, if you look closely. See?
I think we can manage that now, can't we?
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
There is a Connemara single malt? Where can I find it? Does one have to go on a mission to Connemara or can it be found elsewhere in Clare? Tracking such a thing down might be one of my main goals during Willie Week.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by TheSilverSpear
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Id be lucky! mind the sun is shining now so better get back out!
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by the wicked hacker
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
There are a lot of lovely 'spirits' thereabouts Silver Spear...
I too love footin' it, but a bicycle is nice too, even in the rain...
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by ceolachan
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Someone will have to direct me to them, ceol. Every time I am in Ireland I find the whisky situation very depressing. I clearly just don't know where to look.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by TheSilverSpear
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
www.connemarawhiskey.com - and there is a cask strength one as well. You can get it at Dunnes in Ennis - on your way to Willie Week. I didn't see it at Supa Valu or anywhere west of Mount Callan, so you better stock up.I'd buy two if I were you. To start with anyway.
The cask strength I only saw at Shannon duty free I think it was, so probably Dublin as well, if you're going that way.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
...take your rainjacket, Ionannas
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
A relative who is Fianna Fail.Whoah....not to be boasting about
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by concertinaplayer
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Can be a hard slog against the wind though, with a lashing gale!. brrr , and its worse in the winter! Think I prefer DD's turf fire and Whishky...
with a few tunes , yes a lashing gale is best experienced from inside by the fire!
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by the wicked hacker
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Everyone is Fianna Fail in those parts - that's what they told me. Anyway, it was like a local passport, so it's all good.
Hey, there's a pretty good commercial poteen available as well. Not bad. I think from memory it has a white and red and black label (possibly with a skull and crossbones motif on it too, but that might just be my imagine the morning after). You can get it from the Burren Smokehouse at Lisdoonvarna. Add water though or it will strip your throat, I kid you not.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Yeah, that's what the label said "illegal since 1640" or something. That's a pretty good credential eh.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
All the better to appreciate a fireside afterwards. Here's making the link live ~
http://www.connemarawhiskey.com/]
I want some of that cask strength. My usual tipple was Jameson's Crested Ten, along with a pint of the dark stuff. They don't sell it this side of the Irish sea, sadly, but the dated stuff is nice too, but I'd love a bottle of that cask strength, one I haven't had the pleasure of as yet...
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by ceolachan
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
57.9%. I guess you put a tad of water with it too.
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
No way, not me...
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by ceolachan
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
ok, then, here you are:
http://www.bakeryhilldistillery.com.au/our-whiskies/
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by Duijera Dubh
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Australian!? And I haven't even tried the Japanese take on it yet. I guess there is much to look forward to in life, with regards to spirits of one form or another... The worst burn I ever experienced, worst than poteen or white lightening, was an Austrian rum, Stroh, some extra, extra strength version, definitely for sipping... Huh, a UK site:
http://www.stroh.co.uk/
# Posted on May 10th 2009 by ceolachan
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
FYI ~ the dance music at Vaughan's Barn is provided by the Four Courts Céilí Band (not the 10 piece Kilfenora Céilí Band): Peter Griffin, Joe Rynne, Chris Droney, Mr & Mrs Brendan Vaughan, sometimes Aidan Vaughan.
# Posted on May 11th 2009 by Ceolagusrince
Re: Clare Impressions - Spring 2009
Geraldine McGowan also does the most stunning unaccompanied version in a sean nos style of the U2 song, 'I still haven't found what I'm looking for'. That quietens McGanns without a shhh to be heard. Catch it if you can, brilliant.
They're also selling aran jumpers made from Australian merino wool at Doolin - *at friggin' last*!! - that only took about 120 years - longer than the Kilfenora Ceili Band. Very historic!
# Posted on May 13th 2009 by Duijera Dubh