I bought a mopane folk flute from him a few years ago and LOVED it. It just cracked though (I dropped it on a tile floor about 10 minutes before a St. Patrick's day gig...) and I'm looking to buy another flute from him. I think I'm going to go for a keyless blackwood or mopane with rings and a slide (the folk flute was just too quiet), but I don't really know what the best choice is.
When I mentioned wanting more volume, he recommended a "Large Holed Standard" which seems to be his Pratten copy. How big do one's hands need to be to comfortably play one of those? My hands are normal and I play a low whistle, but I definitely wouldn't calll them "large"...
Also, what would you recommend between mopane or blackwood? The mopane is absolutely beautiful (and a bit cheaper), but is there any advantage to buying blackwood?
A focused airstream (good embouchure) will give you all the volume you'll need out of any decent flute, Pratten-ish or Ruddall-esque.
On most of the large bore, large hole flutes I've played, the holes were closer together than on small bore, small holed flutes, so acutally easier for my fairly average sized hands. I play a Hammy keyless and have no trouble reaching any thing. I've also played 5 different flutes from Casey (including his large hole) and found all of them easy to finger.
Casey can best advise you on the differences between mopane and blackwood. The only consideration that comes to my mind is that blackwood *may* retain its resale value better than mopane. But maybe not.
The "large hole" means the actual size of the holes, not necessarily the distance between each hole (as far as I know anyway, I recently ordered a large hole Rudall & Rose flute from Terry McGee). It shouldn't be any different than reaching for the holes on a low whistle. What you need to get your fingers used to is actually getting each one to cover each hole entirely; with a large hole flute, the diameter of the widest hole, which is the fifth finger (right hand middle--sorry you probably know that), will probably be about 10 - 11mm in diameter. Take a ruler and measure the fifth hole on your low whistle; if it's around 11mm wide and you're used to playing it, you'll have no problems playing your new flute. My hands are smaller than average and the largest hole on my low whistle is 11.2mm, and all it took was some practice for me to be able play it just fine So no worries! It's amazing what you can get the human body used to doing.
You can get a smoother surface on black wood than mopane so, in theory, less turbulance which means smoother louder sound. But I think that other things about the design contribute much more. The blackwood is also less permiable, so less effected by moisture, whether in the breath or the air. Heavier as well though. And styronger if you're of a mind to drop it.
I'd be tempted by the mopane because it smells so nice. I've got a boxwood now and I love it. Love the sound, love the appearance. I'm a sucker for pretty wood. Blackwood looks too boring to me. There must be others like me out there, so somebody would buy your flute someday should you decide to sell it and it's made of mopane.
I know what you mean, mopane is very beautiful. If there was no difference in the sound, which there could well not be, I'd go for mopane. But even if it made the tiniest of differences, I'd go for the one that sounded better.
My vote is for the blackwood, Pratten. That's what I have, and it's great. Now, mine was made some years ago, and I find that I have to be careful about fully covering the B hole, which is bigger than the B on my eight-key Pratten. I also find that the head is not well balanced with the body because of the tuning slide. It's still a great flute - the best I've played after my eight-key - and Casey may have solved these issues long since, but check it out.
To be honest, I don't think you'd notice any acoustic difference between idntical flutes made out of Mopane or Blackwood. I like the look of both although I think Blackwood with nice shiny silver keys is a very nice look. My only Mopane flute is a keyless...
Boxwood would be a distinct acoustic difference though. Try to try some out. And I think Boxwood can look gorgeous, especially when it has aged a bit.
Volume is largely a matter for the player. I get a very respectable racket out of my McGee GLP which is small holed, though I do get even more noise out of my Windward Pratten. You know you're at the limit of what a flute can do when the tone is breaking up because there is too much air going through the flute. If the flute just sounds quiet then it is probably you... And projection is more important than how loud the flute sounds to the player.
My preference among Casey Burns' various flutes is his Rudall and Rose model. Rich, colorful tone, responsive, etc.
I see no reason to avoid mopane--the flute (made by Copley & Boegli) I've had for the past 4 years is made from mopane, and it looks and sounds great. I've tried the same model by Burns side-by-side in mopane and blackwood, and they sound similar. Same with side-by-side comparison of two Copleys--one in blackwood, one in mopane. If there is a difference, blackwood may be a tad brighter and mopane a tad darker/warmer, but that's likely a factor of embouchure cut differences between the flutes I tried.
i have one of casey's mopane flutes in C and love it, very beautiful to look at and has a lovely dark sound but you can still get an edge to it with a little embochure work.
Help me choose a casey burns flute?
Help me choose a casey burns flute?
I bought a mopane folk flute from him a few years ago and LOVED it. It just cracked though (I dropped it on a tile floor about 10 minutes before a St. Patrick's day gig...) and I'm looking to buy another flute from him. I think I'm going to go for a keyless blackwood or mopane with rings and a slide (the folk flute was just too quiet), but I don't really know what the best choice is.
When I mentioned wanting more volume, he recommended a "Large Holed Standard" which seems to be his Pratten copy. How big do one's hands need to be to comfortably play one of those? My hands are normal and I play a low whistle, but I definitely wouldn't calll them "large"...
Also, what would you recommend between mopane or blackwood? The mopane is absolutely beautiful (and a bit cheaper), but is there any advantage to buying blackwood?
Thanks!
Sam
# Posted on April 21st 2008 by Sam2
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
A focused airstream (good embouchure) will give you all the volume you'll need out of any decent flute, Pratten-ish or Ruddall-esque.
On most of the large bore, large hole flutes I've played, the holes were closer together than on small bore, small holed flutes, so acutally easier for my fairly average sized hands. I play a Hammy keyless and have no trouble reaching any thing. I've also played 5 different flutes from Casey (including his large hole) and found all of them easy to finger.
Casey can best advise you on the differences between mopane and blackwood. The only consideration that comes to my mind is that blackwood *may* retain its resale value better than mopane. But maybe not.
You might also want to check out what Doc Jones has for sale currently at http://www.irishflutestore.com
# Posted on April 21st 2008 by Will CPT
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
The "large hole" means the actual size of the holes, not necessarily the distance between each hole (as far as I know anyway, I recently ordered a large hole Rudall & Rose flute from Terry McGee). It shouldn't be any different than reaching for the holes on a low whistle. What you need to get your fingers used to is actually getting each one to cover each hole entirely; with a large hole flute, the diameter of the widest hole, which is the fifth finger (right hand middle--sorry you probably know that), will probably be about 10 - 11mm in diameter. Take a ruler and measure the fifth hole on your low whistle; if it's around 11mm wide and you're used to playing it, you'll have no problems playing your new flute. My hands are smaller than average and the largest hole on my low whistle is 11.2mm, and all it took was some practice for me to be able play it just fine
So no worries! It's amazing what you can get the human body used to doing.
# Posted on April 21st 2008 by Tasia
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
You can get a smoother surface on black wood than mopane so, in theory, less turbulance which means smoother louder sound. But I think that other things about the design contribute much more. The blackwood is also less permiable, so less effected by moisture, whether in the breath or the air. Heavier as well though. And styronger if you're of a mind to drop it.
# Posted on April 21st 2008 by llig leahcim
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
I'd be tempted by the mopane because it smells so nice. I've got a boxwood now and I love it. Love the sound, love the appearance. I'm a sucker for pretty wood. Blackwood looks too boring to me. There must be others like me out there, so somebody would buy your flute someday should you decide to sell it and it's made of mopane.
# Posted on April 21st 2008 by sbhikes
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
I know what you mean, mopane is very beautiful. If there was no difference in the sound, which there could well not be, I'd go for mopane. But even if it made the tiniest of differences, I'd go for the one that sounded better.
# Posted on April 21st 2008 by llig leahcim
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
My vote is for the blackwood, Pratten. That's what I have, and it's great. Now, mine was made some years ago, and I find that I have to be careful about fully covering the B hole, which is bigger than the B on my eight-key Pratten. I also find that the head is not well balanced with the body because of the tuning slide. It's still a great flute - the best I've played after my eight-key - and Casey may have solved these issues long since, but check it out.
# Posted on April 22nd 2008 by Ailin
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
To be honest, I don't think you'd notice any acoustic difference between idntical flutes made out of Mopane or Blackwood. I like the look of both although I think Blackwood with nice shiny silver keys is a very nice look. My only Mopane flute is a keyless...
Boxwood would be a distinct acoustic difference though. Try to try some out. And I think Boxwood can look gorgeous, especially when it has aged a bit.
Volume is largely a matter for the player. I get a very respectable racket out of my McGee GLP which is small holed, though I do get even more noise out of my Windward Pratten. You know you're at the limit of what a flute can do when the tone is breaking up because there is too much air going through the flute. If the flute just sounds quiet then it is probably you... And projection is more important than how loud the flute sounds to the player.
# Posted on April 22nd 2008 by Crackpot
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
My preference among Casey Burns' various flutes is his Rudall and Rose model. Rich, colorful tone, responsive, etc.
I see no reason to avoid mopane--the flute (made by Copley & Boegli) I've had for the past 4 years is made from mopane, and it looks and sounds great. I've tried the same model by Burns side-by-side in mopane and blackwood, and they sound similar. Same with side-by-side comparison of two Copleys--one in blackwood, one in mopane. If there is a difference, blackwood may be a tad brighter and mopane a tad darker/warmer, but that's likely a factor of embouchure cut differences between the flutes I tried.
# Posted on April 22nd 2008 by Tintin
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
i have one of casey's mopane flutes in C and love it, very beautiful to look at and has a lovely dark sound but you can still get an edge to it with a little embochure work.
# Posted on April 23rd 2008 by Dont
Re: Help me choose a casey burns flute?
Hey, I'm not sure he makes them from mopane anymore. You better check. Problem with availability or something.
# Posted on April 24th 2008 by justwhistle