I'm looking for some advice. Would changing bridges do anything to counteract a rather "boomy" G string? A bit more volume would be nice too. Any recommendaions?
Do a search; there have been several postings here in the past about Red Henry mandolin bridges. The bridge design, and especially the fit of the bridge to the mandolin top, will have a big effect on tone and volume on any mandolin. Also, you should search posts over at mandolincafe.com for this topic (and all things mandolinish).
What type of mandolin are you playing; and what type of bridge does it have?
I would certainly try new bridges, because a lot of stock mando bridges just aren't well designed, but if the G course is boomy in comparison to the others, it might have more to do with the top and the geometry of the box.
Can't hurt to try a different configuration. It might, as Mr. Himself suggests, be inherent in the instrument but a different bridge might help. For volume, a heavier tailpiece might be helpful, might also provide more balance in the sound. Most tailpieces are stamped out of pretty light stock, and replacing such a one with a heavier metal can direct more of the string's energy into the bridge where it belongs. It worked pretty well on my mandocello, in any case.
The bridge is the heart of the mandolin (and related instruments), and changing it does make a difference, a big difference. You can try Red Henry bridges or Dave Hynds bridges: http://www.murphymethod.com/redbridge.html http://www.mandolinluthier.com/repro-bridges.htm
Your mandolin will be a different instrument if you change the bridge, it's worth trying.
Mr. Kiparsky, may I ask you which tailpiece did you install on your mandocello?
I've got a mandolin (a Pavlu) that would benefit from a better bridge. I've tried making ones from maple, taking the pattern from the Red Henry site, but it isn't easy getting it right - it's difficult fitting it to the arching of the top. The old bridge is a standard, ebony one with wheels and it is quite heavy, and lifting at the ends so it isn't making full contact. I think it is definitely true that the wheels have to go. The lighter the bridge the better, and I tried some vintage mandolins (Gibson and Martin) and took a good look at the bridges: ebony, one-piece, nicely fitted and quite thin. If the bridge has two feet, like a fiddle bridge, it must be important how the feet are positioned in relation to the bracing - I don't think Red Henry discusses this. Anyway I'm going to have a go at making another one - trouble is it takes me ages. I made a nice banjo birdge though - so easy in comparison!
Before changing the bridge, I'd suggest making sure that the old bridge is fitted to the top correctly. Also, as part of this, get the mandolin set up by a pro (string height, nut and bridge slot check/adjustment, etc.)
Since you already went the setup route, you might also want to consider switching to a different type of strings or pick. These can have a great effect on the sound of the mandolin.
I'm concerned that since the setup didn't change anything then the cause of the booming G string may not be in the mechanics of the mandolin itself.
Another item that will probably have as great an effect on the sound as the bridge is the nut. If your mandolin has a plastic nut on it I'd consider swapping that out with a bone nut.
"Mr. Kiparsky, may I ask you which tailpiece did you install on your mandocello?"
You may, indeed, but I'm afraid I don't properly know. It was one that the fellow down at Pioneer Music had in a drawer and thought might suit the instrument. He was right, it did. The plainest piece of brass you can imagine, and it weighs a ton. No maker info, no ornamentation, nothin'. I'd offer to send a picture of it, but my camera is the old fashioned kind - an acoustic camera, some people call it - and so I'd have to mail you the photograph. Happy to do it, though, if you like.
That will not be necessary, thank you very much for your offer anyway. I'm looking for a tailpiece to replace the one in my bouzouki, which looks like a piece ot tin fold. I sometimes think my cell phone is ringing, but is the tailpiece what is ringing.
Maybe I'll try an Allen tailpiece, it's a heavy weight and you can use ball or loop ended strings with it.
Sorry, this was about bridges...
I am that man ( or one of them ) that keeps recommending Red Henry-type bridges.
My daughter complains that she can no longer stay in the same room as me when playing the 'zouk, as it's too loud.
I think I might be getting old people's hearing loss in the top frquencies, but it certainly seemed to be a huge improvement when I first started trying these carved one-piece bridges. I'm now on about number 10, keep trying to improve. They don't take too long to make.
As to fitting them precisely to the soundboard - you make it as close a fit by the basic cutting, then you place a sheet of paper over the soundboard, then a sheet of fine sandpaper, grit UP of course, then the bridge, and maybe have the strings on but lightly tensioned only, and move the bridge repeatedly from side to side on the instrument ( ie along the bridges' length, not towards head and tailpiece). It may take ten minutes, maybe an hour or more, but you will end up with a good match to the soundboard underneath.
As to ringing tailpieces - I think BOTH get a heavier one, and also damp the strings as they touch the tailpiece, with a small scrap of cloth, felt, fleece, thinsulate, whatever.
I.ve made a few Red Henry bridges,I think they make a difference,My favorite is made of cherry .Red is great to deal with and has wood blanks , fitting the feet is time consuming,but there are may tricks to get it right( posted on line)I've also found string gauge does also make a difference.I like the set with the wound A string.Good luck
mandolin bridges
mandolin bridges
I'm looking for some advice. Would changing bridges do anything to counteract a rather "boomy" G string? A bit more volume would be nice too. Any recommendaions?
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by sechan
Re: mandolin bridges
Sechan,
Do a search; there have been several postings here in the past about Red Henry mandolin bridges. The bridge design, and especially the fit of the bridge to the mandolin top, will have a big effect on tone and volume on any mandolin. Also, you should search posts over at mandolincafe.com for this topic (and all things mandolinish).
What type of mandolin are you playing; and what type of bridge does it have?
Keith
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by Keith Dubinsky
Re: mandolin bridges
I would certainly try new bridges, because a lot of stock mando bridges just aren't well designed, but if the G course is boomy in comparison to the others, it might have more to do with the top and the geometry of the box.
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by Bob himself
Re: mandolin bridges
Can't hurt to try a different configuration. It might, as Mr. Himself suggests, be inherent in the instrument but a different bridge might help. For volume, a heavier tailpiece might be helpful, might also provide more balance in the sound. Most tailpieces are stamped out of pretty light stock, and replacing such a one with a heavier metal can direct more of the string's energy into the bridge where it belongs. It worked pretty well on my mandocello, in any case.
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by Jon Kiparsky
Re: mandolin bridges
I have an oldish Regal A style mandolin. I've read about Red Henry bridges, but I was wondering whether they actually make a discernable difference
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by sechan
Re: mandolin bridges
The bridge is the heart of the mandolin (and related instruments), and changing it does make a difference, a big difference. You can try Red Henry bridges or Dave Hynds bridges:
http://www.murphymethod.com/redbridge.html
http://www.mandolinluthier.com/repro-bridges.htm
Your mandolin will be a different instrument if you change the bridge, it's worth trying.
Mr. Kiparsky, may I ask you which tailpiece did you install on your mandocello?
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by Ramiro
Re: mandolin bridges
I've got a mandolin (a Pavlu) that would benefit from a better bridge. I've tried making ones from maple, taking the pattern from the Red Henry site, but it isn't easy getting it right - it's difficult fitting it to the arching of the top. The old bridge is a standard, ebony one with wheels and it is quite heavy, and lifting at the ends so it isn't making full contact. I think it is definitely true that the wheels have to go. The lighter the bridge the better, and I tried some vintage mandolins (Gibson and Martin) and took a good look at the bridges: ebony, one-piece, nicely fitted and quite thin. If the bridge has two feet, like a fiddle bridge, it must be important how the feet are positioned in relation to the bracing - I don't think Red Henry discusses this. Anyway I'm going to have a go at making another one - trouble is it takes me ages. I made a nice banjo birdge though - so easy in comparison!
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by RichardB
Re: mandolin bridges
This thing seems a helpful tool for fitting Gibson-style bridges:
http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/ProductReviews/Tools/RollingJig/rolljig.html
Maybe you could make something similar for Red Henry bridges.
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by Ramiro
Re: mandolin bridges
Well I tried a Red Henry bridge but it made no discernible difference........
# Posted on February 2nd 2008 by jig
Re: mandolin bridges
Before changing the bridge, I'd suggest making sure that the old bridge is fitted to the top correctly. Also, as part of this, get the mandolin set up by a pro (string height, nut and bridge slot check/adjustment, etc.)
Pete
# Posted on February 3rd 2008 by braccio
Re: mandolin bridges
I've had this done within the last month. That's why I was considering the new bridge option.
# Posted on February 3rd 2008 by sechan
Re: mandolin bridges
Since you already went the setup route, you might also want to consider switching to a different type of strings or pick. These can have a great effect on the sound of the mandolin.
I'm concerned that since the setup didn't change anything then the cause of the booming G string may not be in the mechanics of the mandolin itself.
Another item that will probably have as great an effect on the sound as the bridge is the nut. If your mandolin has a plastic nut on it I'd consider swapping that out with a bone nut.
Pete
# Posted on February 3rd 2008 by braccio
Re: mandolin bridges
"Mr. Kiparsky, may I ask you which tailpiece did you install on your mandocello?"
You may, indeed, but I'm afraid I don't properly know. It was one that the fellow down at Pioneer Music had in a drawer and thought might suit the instrument. He was right, it did. The plainest piece of brass you can imagine, and it weighs a ton. No maker info, no ornamentation, nothin'. I'd offer to send a picture of it, but my camera is the old fashioned kind - an acoustic camera, some people call it - and so I'd have to mail you the photograph. Happy to do it, though, if you like.
# Posted on February 3rd 2008 by Jon Kiparsky
Re: mandolin bridges
That will not be necessary, thank you very much for your offer anyway. I'm looking for a tailpiece to replace the one in my bouzouki, which looks like a piece ot tin fold. I sometimes think my cell phone is ringing, but is the tailpiece what is ringing.
Maybe I'll try an Allen tailpiece, it's a heavy weight and you can use ball or loop ended strings with it.
Sorry, this was about bridges...
# Posted on February 3rd 2008 by Ramiro
Re: mandolin bridges
I am that man ( or one of them ) that keeps recommending Red Henry-type bridges.
My daughter complains that she can no longer stay in the same room as me when playing the 'zouk, as it's too loud.
I think I might be getting old people's hearing loss in the top frquencies, but it certainly seemed to be a huge improvement when I first started trying these carved one-piece bridges. I'm now on about number 10, keep trying to improve. They don't take too long to make.
As to fitting them precisely to the soundboard - you make it as close a fit by the basic cutting, then you place a sheet of paper over the soundboard, then a sheet of fine sandpaper, grit UP of course, then the bridge, and maybe have the strings on but lightly tensioned only, and move the bridge repeatedly from side to side on the instrument ( ie along the bridges' length, not towards head and tailpiece). It may take ten minutes, maybe an hour or more, but you will end up with a good match to the soundboard underneath.
As to ringing tailpieces - I think BOTH get a heavier one, and also damp the strings as they touch the tailpiece, with a small scrap of cloth, felt, fleece, thinsulate, whatever.
# Posted on February 3rd 2008 by Guernsey Pete
Re: mandolin bridges
I.ve made a few Red Henry bridges,I think they make a difference,My favorite is made of cherry .Red is great to deal with and has wood blanks , fitting the feet is time consuming,but there are may tricks to get it right( posted on line)I've also found string gauge does also make a difference.I like the set with the wound A string.Good luck
# Posted on February 4th 2008 by edorian