I've been playing fiddle about a year and a half now. I think I'm at a point where changing things on my fiddle would not be totally pointless, and might actually help my playing.
I'm wondering about the string action, and whether it would be a good idea to make the bridge lower and/or flatter than it is now.
I think it would feel better to me and maybe be easier to play.
How would I know if the way it is now is "normal" or "high" or what? Are there measurements to determine that? I know bridge height is a matter of personal preference, but how low is "low"? How high is "high"?
If I decide I would like to try a lower bridge, must I take the fiddle to a violin guy, or can I do it myself? Somebody told me that the violin guy just puts a piece of sandpaper on the fiddle and sands the little feet of the bridge on that, is that right? If so, it doesn't sound too hard.
If you really want to try a lower bridge, I'd recommend having a new bridge cut so you can go back to the old one if it doesn't work out. If you really want to do it yourself (not recommended), buy a bridge jack from StewMac so you don't risk dropping the soundpost.
If you treat the instrument gently with the bridge down, a properly fitted sound post should stay put. If it doesn't then the fiddle probably needs a new sound post.
Your informant is describing how the feet are correctly fited to the soundboard.
Lowering and flattening the bridge is done by trimming the top edge of the bridge, a job which has no turning back. I'd agree you should get a new bridge for this experiment, then you can always re-fit the old one if you don't like it. And, yes, an experienced person is the best one to do this.
If you are happy with your current bridge profile and the sound quality, then the "official" way to lower the action is not to alter the bridge but to raise the fingerboard. This isn't too difficult a job for the luthier, but is beyond the scope of most players.
The action depends on individual preferences, but the minimum height is obviously when the strings start to buzz against the fingerboard. A low action is preferable if you use metal-cored or high-tension synthetic cored strings - it's more comfortable for the fingers and demands less effort - whereas, at the other end of the scale, a user of gut-cored strings would use a higher action.
“If you treat the instrument gently with the bridge down, a properly fitted sound post should stay put.”
Doesn’t that kinda beg the question, Trevor? An unfortunate bump can knock the soundpost loose. The bridge jack lets you avoid that and also makes it easier to maintain the string placement.
Re the bridge adjustment, a new bridge costs only a £ or £2.That make a great excuse for starting off here. Afterall, if you mess it up, you can still play as before. 1 never learns anthing if they never venture anything. The most dangerous little thing is, much vibration / bumps WILL knock the s. post & make a major problem. Why not buy the new br. set it on top of the old 1 a little lower to show how much much you need / intend off it. Pencil the shape onto the new 1. If the difference is small sandpaper off, if large care needed. I have heard of ones cutting in the wrong direction / against the grain, & casing a split. At this time you can also aim for a flater or rounder top.
I wonder if anyone ever heard of a music teacher trying to insist that the students get their bridges GLUED on.
Correct place or ???
April fool NO. I sell violins & a customer wanted me to do it. I said that I definitly wouldn't, that it as supid idea, baring future adjustment. If you are into a spare bridge you don't have to be in a panic, a little @ a time & check often if the adjm.is helping
Sand the darn thing any way you like, up, down, around, side, don't listen to these conformists..try something new, thats really what this is all about...if there were so many darn rules involved in playing folk music fiddle there wouldnt be folk music in the first place.. you aint gonna hurt your pretty instrument by changing your bridge around or taking it off an on,,just use a little common sense is all...
-When you are buying it, it's a fiddle. When you are selling it, it's a violin.
-What's the difference between a violin and a fiddle? About $10,000.
-The violin sings, the fiddle dances.
-A fiddle is a violin with attitude." "No one cries when they spill beer on a fiddle.
-The difference between a violinist and a fiddle player is $100 a night, and a tux.
Fiddle bridge height question
Fiddle bridge height question
I've been playing fiddle about a year and a half now. I think I'm at a point where changing things on my fiddle would not be totally pointless, and might actually help my playing.
I'm wondering about the string action, and whether it would be a good idea to make the bridge lower and/or flatter than it is now.
I think it would feel better to me and maybe be easier to play.
How would I know if the way it is now is "normal" or "high" or what? Are there measurements to determine that? I know bridge height is a matter of personal preference, but how low is "low"? How high is "high"?
If I decide I would like to try a lower bridge, must I take the fiddle to a violin guy, or can I do it myself? Somebody told me that the violin guy just puts a piece of sandpaper on the fiddle and sands the little feet of the bridge on that, is that right? If so, it doesn't sound too hard.
Thanks,
Kelly
# Posted on June 4th 2007 by seisflutes
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
General rule: high bridge = better tone; low bridge = easier to play.
In addition, Sligo fiddlers tend to play with a flatter bridge (as do I).
For goodness' sake, don't try and fit the bridge yourself. you will wreck the bridge and, possibly, the fiddle as well.
# Posted on June 5th 2007 by ethical blend
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
Okay, I won't do it myself.
# Posted on June 5th 2007 by seisflutes
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
You also might need to recondition or dress the fingerboard.
# Posted on June 5th 2007 by mcdevincabe
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
If you really want to try a lower bridge, I'd recommend having a new bridge cut so you can go back to the old one if it doesn't work out. If you really want to do it yourself (not recommended), buy a bridge jack from StewMac so you don't risk dropping the soundpost.
# Posted on June 5th 2007 by Bob himself
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
If you treat the instrument gently with the bridge down, a properly fitted sound post should stay put. If it doesn't then the fiddle probably needs a new sound post.
# Posted on June 5th 2007 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
Your informant is describing how the feet are correctly fited to the soundboard.
Lowering and flattening the bridge is done by trimming the top edge of the bridge, a job which has no turning back. I'd agree you should get a new bridge for this experiment, then you can always re-fit the old one if you don't like it. And, yes, an experienced person is the best one to do this.
# Posted on June 5th 2007 by Guernsey Pete
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
If you are happy with your current bridge profile and the sound quality, then the "official" way to lower the action is not to alter the bridge but to raise the fingerboard. This isn't too difficult a job for the luthier, but is beyond the scope of most players.
The action depends on individual preferences, but the minimum height is obviously when the strings start to buzz against the fingerboard. A low action is preferable if you use metal-cored or high-tension synthetic cored strings - it's more comfortable for the fingers and demands less effort - whereas, at the other end of the scale, a user of gut-cored strings would use a higher action.
# Posted on June 5th 2007 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
“If you treat the instrument gently with the bridge down, a properly fitted sound post should stay put.”
Doesn’t that kinda beg the question, Trevor? An unfortunate bump can knock the soundpost loose. The bridge jack lets you avoid that and also makes it easier to maintain the string placement.
# Posted on June 5th 2007 by Bob himself
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
Re the bridge adjustment, a new bridge costs only a £ or £2.That make a great excuse for starting off here. Afterall, if you mess it up, you can still play as before. 1 never learns anthing if they never venture anything. The most dangerous little thing is, much vibration / bumps WILL knock the s. post & make a major problem. Why not buy the new br. set it on top of the old 1 a little lower to show how much much you need / intend off it. Pencil the shape onto the new 1. If the difference is small sandpaper off, if large care needed. I have heard of ones cutting in the wrong direction / against the grain, & casing a split. At this time you can also aim for a flater or rounder top.
I wonder if anyone ever heard of a music teacher trying to insist that the students get their bridges GLUED on.
Correct place or ???
# Posted on June 6th 2007 by lenamore Man
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
A glued-on fiddle bridge?
Just checked my calendar - no, it's not April 1st. Can't understand it.
# Posted on June 6th 2007 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
it would take a lot of experimentation to get the bridge right, carving away on your own, with no training...
# Posted on June 6th 2007 by Sunnybear
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
April fool NO. I sell violins & a customer wanted me to do it. I said that I definitly wouldn't, that it as supid idea, baring future adjustment. If you are into a spare bridge you don't have to be in a panic, a little @ a time & check often if the adjm.is helping
# Posted on June 10th 2007 by lenamore Man
Re: Fiddle bridge height question
Sand the darn thing any way you like, up, down, around, side, don't listen to these conformists..try something new, thats really what this is all about...if there were so many darn rules involved in playing folk music fiddle there wouldnt be folk music in the first place.. you aint gonna hurt your pretty instrument by changing your bridge around or taking it off an on,,just use a little common sense is all...
-When you are buying it, it's a fiddle. When you are selling it, it's a violin.
-What's the difference between a violin and a fiddle? About $10,000.
-The violin sings, the fiddle dances.
-A fiddle is a violin with attitude." "No one cries when they spill beer on a fiddle.
-The difference between a violinist and a fiddle player is $100 a night, and a tux.
# Posted on February 18th 2011 by devildowningeorgia