I just picked up an old flute, with which I am delighted, but it has a couple of cracks in it. I have read loads of advice, much of it contradictory, about how to go about sealing/stabilising cracks. Some folk swear by Araldite, and others issue dire warnings against it.
Seems to me that any hard glue or resin will simply pull fibres apart if the flute shrinks any further round its metal liners, and that a stretchy adhesive, like for instance wood glue, would be better, but I'm well aware that what seems like common sense is often not.
If the crack is in the commonest place, namely around the metal liner as you refer to, then your fear would seem correct, even if it takes a few decades to go wrong again. But in that case, you have little to worry about, as the liner will be sealing the inside perfectly, and it will have no effect on tone or playability at all. A cosmetic fill with a fine-textured wood filler (of carefully chosen colour) will be fine. You could, of course, perfectly well leave it in it's natural condition. And I have heard of beeswax being used just to fill the gap.
If you have a crack in an unlined section, you have a much more serious problem. Araldite, and possibly pinning, might then be the solutions, but you should not rush, and I would not be qualified to advise you.
Do you have a maker, serial number, or anything like that?
Is araldite the same thing as crazy glue (Cyanoacrylate)? If it is, it is removable with acetone. Several maker's websites mention using it.
That said, I'd humidify the bugger for a while and see if the crack closes up on it's own. Then, a thin layer of crazy glue will seal the wood and keep it from reopening.
Araldite is a two part epoxy adhesive, NOT the same as cyanoacrylate (superglue). Cyanoacrylate tends to be recommended for hairline cracks, where araldite might be able to fill an open crack. But try to get the wood to it's normal working humidity before deciding how big the crack is and what to do with it.
The critical point here is how much the flute is worth. Does the flute have any makers mark on it? If it is (e.g.) Rudall and Rose, then don't even think of repairing it yourself! If it is a no name German flute then it shouldn't be a problem. With the headjoint liner, it is important to check that the embouchure hole in the liner still exactly matches the hole in the wood - if not, then you have a problem. A crack in the headjoint that does not run through the embouchure hole and where the liner is still properly aligned, can be filled reatively easily. However the recommended treatment is to remove the liner, repair the crack and e-ream the headjoint to fit the liner properly. Possibly beyond the means of DIY though.
Visit Terry McGee's web site for a lot of background information on flute repairs:
Be careful using epoxy resins, eg Araldite. They are not very nice. The curing agents have been shown to be carcinogenic (giving rise to cancer) in lab animals, as well as the fumes just being generally toxic.
H&S factsheet: http://www.dhs.ca.gov/ohb/HESIS/epoxy.htm
If your area of repair is near where you put you fingers or your lips, forget it - get another flute.
Come to think of it, cyanoacrylics (superglue) aren't much better. This one http://www.jniosh.go.jp/english/indu_hel/pdf/42-2-14.pdf states:
"Although...not...carcinogenic to humans, it can be toxic to the neurological system and respiratory system...."
A few points arising out of the epoxy link posted by Danny.
The principal danger appears to be when you mix the components and apply the resin.
Avoid skin contact with the components of the resin and breathing the fumes; work in a well-ventilated area.
Single-component epoxy resins are apparently safer to use because they emit much smaller amounts of vapour when being applied.
Older epoxy resins contained epichlorohydrin, a probable carcinogen. Newer epoxy resins contain less of this substance.
Finished, hardened epoxy products are practically non-toxic unless they are cut, sanded, or burned – some are used in dentistry for example - but do bear in mind Danny's point about where on the instrument you apply the repair.
If I were doing a repair using an epoxy resin only on rare occasions (which is the case for most people) I, personally, wouldn’t be too worried about it, and would use the sensible precautions listed on the container. Problems are much more likely to arise when the stuff is being used frequently in the course of work or a hobby.
Chris makes a good point about the value of the instrument...what I suggested I would do on a no name flute, but not on something of real value.
Super glue is remarkably safe. It's used medically to seal wounds in place of stitches. You'd have to be sniffing tons of the stuff to cause any real problems.
Thanks for all the great replies, folks. I appreciate them all.
The flute is a G. Krywalski, which is near a no-name, as far as I am concerned, though I have heard of one on offer for $1700.
The cracks are in the usual places, headjoint and tuning barrel, but neither is opened from end to end, and the headjoint one is nowhere near the embouchure.
I am currently playing and oiling the flute, and keeping it in a reasonably humid kitchen, so in a few weeks I should know what the cracks really look like. After that I will try one or other of your solutions.
Eric, there are actually a load of papers coming out about the use of cyanoacrylics and wound repair. Suffice it to say the jury's still out on that one at present.
flute repair
flute repair
I just picked up an old flute, with which I am delighted, but it has a couple of cracks in it. I have read loads of advice, much of it contradictory, about how to go about sealing/stabilising cracks. Some folk swear by Araldite, and others issue dire warnings against it.
Seems to me that any hard glue or resin will simply pull fibres apart if the flute shrinks any further round its metal liners, and that a stretchy adhesive, like for instance wood glue, would be better, but I'm well aware that what seems like common sense is often not.
Any ideas/experiences out there?
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by E
Re: flute repair
If the crack is in the commonest place, namely around the metal liner as you refer to, then your fear would seem correct, even if it takes a few decades to go wrong again. But in that case, you have little to worry about, as the liner will be sealing the inside perfectly, and it will have no effect on tone or playability at all. A cosmetic fill with a fine-textured wood filler (of carefully chosen colour) will be fine. You could, of course, perfectly well leave it in it's natural condition. And I have heard of beeswax being used just to fill the gap.
If you have a crack in an unlined section, you have a much more serious problem. Araldite, and possibly pinning, might then be the solutions, but you should not rush, and I would not be qualified to advise you.
Do you have a maker, serial number, or anything like that?
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by Lingpupa
Re: flute repair
Is araldite the same thing as crazy glue (Cyanoacrylate)? If it is, it is removable with acetone. Several maker's websites mention using it.
That said, I'd humidify the bugger for a while and see if the crack closes up on it's own. Then, a thin layer of crazy glue will seal the wood and keep it from reopening.
Eric
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by Jayhawk
Re: flute repair
Araldite is a two part epoxy adhesive, NOT the same as cyanoacrylate (superglue). Cyanoacrylate tends to be recommended for hairline cracks, where araldite might be able to fill an open crack. But try to get the wood to it's normal working humidity before deciding how big the crack is and what to do with it.
The critical point here is how much the flute is worth. Does the flute have any makers mark on it? If it is (e.g.) Rudall and Rose, then don't even think of repairing it yourself! If it is a no name German flute then it shouldn't be a problem. With the headjoint liner, it is important to check that the embouchure hole in the liner still exactly matches the hole in the wood - if not, then you have a problem. A crack in the headjoint that does not run through the embouchure hole and where the liner is still properly aligned, can be filled reatively easily. However the recommended treatment is to remove the liner, repair the crack and e-ream the headjoint to fit the liner properly. Possibly beyond the means of DIY though.
Visit Terry McGee's web site for a lot of background information on flute repairs:
http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/
'bye,
Chris.
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by Crackpot
Re: flute repair
Sorry, that was "re-ream"...
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by Crackpot
Re: flute repair
Be careful using epoxy resins, eg Araldite. They are not very nice. The curing agents have been shown to be carcinogenic (giving rise to cancer) in lab animals, as well as the fumes just being generally toxic.
H&S factsheet:
http://www.dhs.ca.gov/ohb/HESIS/epoxy.htm
If your area of repair is near where you put you fingers or your lips, forget it - get another flute.
Come to think of it, cyanoacrylics (superglue) aren't much better. This one
http://www.jniosh.go.jp/english/indu_hel/pdf/42-2-14.pdf states:
"Although...not...carcinogenic to humans, it can be toxic to the neurological system and respiratory system...."
So be careful.
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by Key Maniac Lad
Re: flute repair
A few points arising out of the epoxy link posted by Danny.
The principal danger appears to be when you mix the components and apply the resin.
Avoid skin contact with the components of the resin and breathing the fumes; work in a well-ventilated area.
Single-component epoxy resins are apparently safer to use because they emit much smaller amounts of vapour when being applied.
Older epoxy resins contained epichlorohydrin, a probable carcinogen. Newer epoxy resins contain less of this substance.
Finished, hardened epoxy products are practically non-toxic unless they are cut, sanded, or burned – some are used in dentistry for example - but do bear in mind Danny's point about where on the instrument you apply the repair.
If I were doing a repair using an epoxy resin only on rare occasions (which is the case for most people) I, personally, wouldn’t be too worried about it, and would use the sensible precautions listed on the container. Problems are much more likely to arise when the stuff is being used frequently in the course of work or a hobby.
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by lazyhound
Re: flute repair
You could ask this lady
http://www.karalochridge.com/index.html
good luck with it!
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by proinsiasrua
Re: flute repair
Chris makes a good point about the value of the instrument...what I suggested I would do on a no name flute, but not on something of real value.
Super glue is remarkably safe. It's used medically to seal wounds in place of stitches. You'd have to be sniffing tons of the stuff to cause any real problems.
Eric
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by Jayhawk
Re: flute repair
Thanks for all the great replies, folks. I appreciate them all.
The flute is a G. Krywalski, which is near a no-name, as far as I am concerned, though I have heard of one on offer for $1700.
The cracks are in the usual places, headjoint and tuning barrel, but neither is opened from end to end, and the headjoint one is nowhere near the embouchure.
I am currently playing and oiling the flute, and keeping it in a reasonably humid kitchen, so in a few weeks I should know what the cracks really look like. After that I will try one or other of your solutions.
Thanks again for all the help.
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by E
Re: flute repair
Eric, there are actually a load of papers coming out about the use of cyanoacrylics and wound repair. Suffice it to say the jury's still out on that one at present.
# Posted on May 30th 2007 by Key Maniac Lad
Re: flute repair
Take it to a pro.
# Posted on May 31st 2007 by red_tiger