I have just inherited a bouzouki. On problem: the strings are actually rusty so I need to restring it. I have been told that I should use guitar strings as follows.
High E guitar string tuned down to D
Guitar B tuned down to A
Guitar D as is
Guitar G as is.
Is this correct? What gauge strings should I use?
Thanks a lot
I think you should identify the maker first. Second, give us a better idea of the instrument. Is it a flat top, curved top, carved top? Also you could search the discussions for info on "bouzouki".
I own a Flatiron Octave mandolin and a "Trillium' bouzouki, and the strings for the flattop are heavier than the archtop trillium.
The only issue as I see it is the length of the open string. You can tell that by putting your bouzouki next to a guitar and comparing.
When the bridges are lined up, the nut on my bouzouki only comes up to the 3rd fret on my guitar, so any guitar string at the same tension will sound 1 1/2 steps higher on the bouzouki.
So, low to high:
bouzouki guitar
------------ ---------
G' = guitar E'
bouzouki D = guitar B' (some guage in between the A and D rings)
bouzouki A
Use it to calculate string tensions. For a balanced sound out of the instrument, you should have about the same string tension on each of the strings. I find that about 22#-24# of tension is good. If you get less than about 21#, the strings will be floppy.
You can put your scale length in, adjust the string type (phosphor bronze, nickel wound, stainless steel, etc), put in 23# tension, and it will tell you the gauge you need.
My 5 course looks like this:
D .013" PL == 22.1#
D .013" PL == 22.1#
A, .020" PB == 24.9#
A, .020" PB == 24.9#
D, .030" PB == 25.53#
D .013" PL == 22.1#
G,, .048" PB == 28.78#
G, .022" PB == 24.08#
C,, .060" PB == 22.22#
C, .034" PB == 25.94#
You don't say whether it's a Greek or "Irish" 'zouk, or how you intend to tune and use it. Bowl-back with elaborate scratchplate on the soundboard is Greek, flat-back, more often with a floating bridge and tail-piece, but sometimes with a pin bridge like a guitar, is an "Irish".
Either way, strings are available, mail order through Hobgoblin or others if you're not near a large city.
Also, indeed, check the scale length. "Irish" 'zouks have a scale of about 660 -670 mm, but the octave mandola is a bit shorter, perhaps just under 600mm.
And, of course, traditionally, the Greek ones were tuned like the top four strings of a guitar but a tone flat, ie daFC.
PS If you don't put any biog, we've no idea where you are or what you do - it doesn't all have to be true, just a few hints.
If you are in the UK I have always found the Music room good value and worth a talk to, I use a custom set for my cittern . Just email them and ask I recently paid £70 for 10 sets ( 100 strings! ) and a free electric tuner as part of a promotion they had on , a big order for me but worth it .
Here is the link
orders@themusicroom-online.co.uk
A thread about tuning coudn't be better timed for me, as I'm planning on buying a zouk and trying to learn as much as possible about them.
Ive noticed that some people string their instruments all unison, some string the bottom 2 sets? octaved, and one example I found had the top 2 sets octaved and the bottom 2 unison. Just wondering how this effects the sound and projection (volume) of the instrument.
Sorry to inject a complication to your thread Anton, maybe I should start another?
A general rule of thumb for me for octave strings vs. unison:
unison -> tunes
octave -> accompaniment
But that's not a hard, fast rule. (As you can see) my 5 course is currently tuned with octaves on the lowest 3 courses. (It would be difficult to tune the A and D (or E) courses in octaves, because strings an octave up from the high octave would be useless, and so thin that they'd never last). I play tunes with it in octaves, and it sounds kind of cool.
As far as how it changes the sound, I think that octave strings make your overall volume output drop a bit. But they also fill out the sound a bit, and make you stick out in a session a bit more. How's that for a non-committal answer?
And I prefer to have the lighter octave string on top. If you have the heavy one on top, it will sometimes deflect your plectrum away from the lighter string on a downstroke.
Hey, WB, understand that the instruments are built that way, at least their bridges are set up that way, to accommodate either unisons or octaves. If you're thinking of getting a zouk, you'll probably want one that is set up for one or the other. To change your mind after purchase would probably require an after-market purchase and some adjustment.
The octaves would certainly sound "fuller" than the unisons -- the notes being sounded cover more range. But some might say they sound too jangly and noisy, and so they prefer the unisons. Also the unisons are more likely to sound in-tune when you play or capo up the nectk.
Ah, so much to learn, so keen to get started!!
I'm definitely running into trouble, as I plan to play accompaniment first, (easier start, and my mate the guitar/fluter loves to get some time on his flute ) and then learn to pick later.
Anyhoo, sorry about the hijack. Will start a thread myself when I've read some more from the archive. Ta much for the help.
Pete's right about there being no hard and fast rules about stringing your zook - the best way is to try both. I would suggest may ITM zook players string their instruments with unisons and tune them GDAD as this enables you to get the droning sound beloved of many players as well as those deeper low notes for those bass runs.
I retuned from GDAE to GDAD and have started flatpicking. It works OKish in sessions (you can get drowned out very easily) so I often combine this approach with strumming.
Sorry for the delay in replying. The bouzouki is a flat top Irish bouzouki. It is a McBride which, despite its Gaelic sounding name, is made in China and is, I have been told, a mickey mouse instrument. But it will do for a youngster who is a complete beginner. The scale length is 26 inches but I'm not sure that the floating bridge is positioned properly. So, two queries. How do I know where exactly to put the bridge and what string should I use? Thanks to everyone who replies to this and also to my initial query. It's great to have such expertise imparted so generously.
Hi
26 " is a pretty standard scale length I build mostly this scale .The low to high for GDAD would be 42 32 17 12 A and D are Plain . Set the bridge firstly at 26 " from the nut or zero fret then armed with your tuner check the harmonic at the 12 fret against the fretted note ,they should be the same ,if not move the bridge forward or back to fix .There are some things you can do with each string but that should get you into the ball park.
cheers
Basic Bouzouki query
Basic Bouzouki query
I have just inherited a bouzouki. On problem: the strings are actually rusty so I need to restring it. I have been told that I should use guitar strings as follows.
High E guitar string tuned down to D
Guitar B tuned down to A
Guitar D as is
Guitar G as is.
Is this correct? What gauge strings should I use?
Thanks a lot
# Posted on April 19th 2007 by anton
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
I think you should identify the maker first. Second, give us a better idea of the instrument. Is it a flat top, curved top, carved top? Also you could search the discussions for info on "bouzouki".
I own a Flatiron Octave mandolin and a "Trillium' bouzouki, and the strings for the flattop are heavier than the archtop trillium.
# Posted on April 19th 2007 by windybaer
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
The only issue as I see it is the length of the open string. You can tell that by putting your bouzouki next to a guitar and comparing.
When the bridges are lined up, the nut on my bouzouki only comes up to the 3rd fret on my guitar, so any guitar string at the same tension will sound 1 1/2 steps higher on the bouzouki.
So, low to high:
bouzouki guitar
------------ ---------
G' = guitar E'
bouzouki D = guitar B' (some guage in between the A and D rings)
bouzouki A
# Posted on April 19th 2007 by McBriss
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Sorry, hit the wrong button:
bouzouki guitar
------------ --------
G E
D B (custom guage, or tune A up)
A F# (G will work, I think)
E C# (custom, or tune B up)
Or you could tune the bouzouki GDAD and use the guitar B string on top.
Of course, this may be different for you if your bouzouki has a different neck length.
# Posted on April 19th 2007 by McBriss
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Agreed. On top of telling us the maker, the scale length is something to know as well.
I find this page extremely useful.
http://www.pacificsites.net/~dog/StringTensionApplet.html
Use it to calculate string tensions. For a balanced sound out of the instrument, you should have about the same string tension on each of the strings. I find that about 22#-24# of tension is good. If you get less than about 21#, the strings will be floppy.
You can put your scale length in, adjust the string type (phosphor bronze, nickel wound, stainless steel, etc), put in 23# tension, and it will tell you the gauge you need.
My 5 course looks like this:
D .013" PL == 22.1#
D .013" PL == 22.1#
A, .020" PB == 24.9#
A, .020" PB == 24.9#
D, .030" PB == 25.53#
D .013" PL == 22.1#
G,, .048" PB == 28.78#
G, .022" PB == 24.08#
C,, .060" PB == 22.22#
C, .034" PB == 25.94#
Good luck!
Pete
# Posted on April 19th 2007 by Reverend
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
You don't say whether it's a Greek or "Irish" 'zouk, or how you intend to tune and use it. Bowl-back with elaborate scratchplate on the soundboard is Greek, flat-back, more often with a floating bridge and tail-piece, but sometimes with a pin bridge like a guitar, is an "Irish".
Either way, strings are available, mail order through Hobgoblin or others if you're not near a large city.
Also, indeed, check the scale length. "Irish" 'zouks have a scale of about 660 -670 mm, but the octave mandola is a bit shorter, perhaps just under 600mm.
And, of course, traditionally, the Greek ones were tuned like the top four strings of a guitar but a tone flat, ie daFC.
PS If you don't put any biog, we've no idea where you are or what you do - it doesn't all have to be true, just a few hints.
# Posted on April 20th 2007 by Guernsey Pete
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Hmmmmmmmm........Welcome to our world!!
# Posted on April 20th 2007 by seaniemcg
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
If you are in the UK I have always found the Music room good value and worth a talk to, I use a custom set for my cittern . Just email them and ask I recently paid £70 for 10 sets ( 100 strings! ) and a free electric tuner as part of a promotion they had on , a big order for me but worth it .
Here is the link
orders@themusicroom-online.co.uk
# Posted on April 20th 2007 by bazouki dave and the real tooty flutey
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
A thread about tuning coudn't be better timed for me, as I'm planning on buying a zouk and trying to learn as much as possible about them.
Ive noticed that some people string their instruments all unison, some string the bottom 2 sets? octaved, and one example I found had the top 2 sets octaved and the bottom 2 unison. Just wondering how this effects the sound and projection (volume) of the instrument.
Sorry to inject a complication to your thread Anton, maybe I should start another?
# Posted on April 20th 2007 by whistlers brother
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Anton's not here at the moment, so hijack away
A general rule of thumb for me for octave strings vs. unison:
unison -> tunes
octave -> accompaniment
But that's not a hard, fast rule. (As you can see) my 5 course is currently tuned with octaves on the lowest 3 courses. (It would be difficult to tune the A and D (or E) courses in octaves, because strings an octave up from the high octave would be useless, and so thin that they'd never last). I play tunes with it in octaves, and it sounds kind of cool.
As far as how it changes the sound, I think that octave strings make your overall volume output drop a bit. But they also fill out the sound a bit, and make you stick out in a session a bit more. How's that for a non-committal answer?
And I prefer to have the lighter octave string on top. If you have the heavy one on top, it will sometimes deflect your plectrum away from the lighter string on a downstroke.
Anyway, hope that helps!
Pete
# Posted on April 21st 2007 by Reverend
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Hey, WB, understand that the instruments are built that way, at least their bridges are set up that way, to accommodate either unisons or octaves. If you're thinking of getting a zouk, you'll probably want one that is set up for one or the other. To change your mind after purchase would probably require an after-market purchase and some adjustment.
The octaves would certainly sound "fuller" than the unisons -- the notes being sounded cover more range. But some might say they sound too jangly and noisy, and so they prefer the unisons. Also the unisons are more likely to sound in-tune when you play or capo up the nectk.
# Posted on April 21st 2007 by cuchulain54
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Or "neck" as some spell it.
# Posted on April 21st 2007 by cuchulain54
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Ah, so much to learn, so keen to get started!!
) and then learn to pick later.
I'm definitely running into trouble, as I plan to play accompaniment first, (easier start, and my mate the guitar/fluter loves to get some time on his flute
Anyhoo, sorry about the hijack. Will start a thread myself when I've read some more from the archive. Ta much for the help.
# Posted on April 21st 2007 by whistlers brother
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Pete's right about there being no hard and fast rules about stringing your zook - the best way is to try both. I would suggest may ITM zook players string their instruments with unisons and tune them GDAD as this enables you to get the droning sound beloved of many players as well as those deeper low notes for those bass runs.
I retuned from GDAE to GDAD and have started flatpicking. It works OKish in sessions (you can get drowned out very easily) so I often combine this approach with strumming.
Whatever you choose - enjoy!
# Posted on April 21st 2007 by Sugarfoot Jack
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Sorry for the delay in replying. The bouzouki is a flat top Irish bouzouki. It is a McBride which, despite its Gaelic sounding name, is made in China and is, I have been told, a mickey mouse instrument. But it will do for a youngster who is a complete beginner. The scale length is 26 inches but I'm not sure that the floating bridge is positioned properly. So, two queries. How do I know where exactly to put the bridge and what string should I use? Thanks to everyone who replies to this and also to my initial query. It's great to have such expertise imparted so generously.
# Posted on April 22nd 2007 by anton
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
Hi
26 " is a pretty standard scale length I build mostly this scale .The low to high for GDAD would be 42 32 17 12 A and D are Plain . Set the bridge firstly at 26 " from the nut or zero fret then armed with your tuner check the harmonic at the 12 fret against the fretted note ,they should be the same ,if not move the bridge forward or back to fix .There are some things you can do with each string but that should get you into the ball park.
cheers
# Posted on April 23rd 2007 by Philuthier
Re: Basic Bouzouki query
I play 18 wound instead of 17 solid for the A string and find it sounds better. Anyone else find this ?
# Posted on April 24th 2007 by bazouki dave and the real tooty flutey