I'm a new fiddler, been learning about two months now so I don't know much about the instrument yet. I took my fiddle over to my son's violin teacher and as soon as he took the bow out of the case he said "Bow not so good". He was more favorible toward my fiddle (a Stainer copy by Neuner & Hornsteiner in Mittenvald) although he's Chinese and speaks somewhat broken English so sometimes it's a challange to figure out exactly what he's saying.
He thought the bridge could be better - he said 'harder' although I'm not sure how he can tell how hard a piece of maple is looking at it. The logo says JeG on it. Haven't a clue how to judge a bridge.
Anyway, my bow does need replacing. I don't have a clue however as to what to look for in a decent bow, nor what brands/models to look at. I want to play Irish, bluegrass, old-timer sort of tunes so something that is appropriate for that sort of music. Naturally I don't want to spend more than I have to, but at 49 it's probable that I won't be upgrading it anytime soon. If I could get a decent stick for $75 that would be great but I suspect a couple hundred is more likely. But I just don't know.
So, any pearls fo wisdom for me? Any good sites that cover the basics of what to look for in these matters?
Kevin, I went through the Search for A Bow a few years back. A cheap plastic one came with my student fiddle, and I began feeling limited by it in the second year I was learning to play. I even had to wind fishing weight wire around the bow to get some approximation of the weight and balance that felt right.
I just test-drove a lot of bows; every time I was in a city with good music shops, I took my fiddle and tried out bows. I tried not to look at the price tags, but just played. The one that chose me cost more than I expected to pay, (and more than my student fiddle) but I haven't had a moment of regret. It is ready for some new hair, though.
I know that some people have really liked the bows that they bought from Southwest Strings and they are pretty reasonably priced. Good service, too.
Happy hunting. I think a good bow can make a lot of difference in your playing. Get a good one, and you'll grow in to it.
I bought an Incredibow last year, and I couldn't be happier with it. It only cost $70, which makes it even better. It's a bit bouncy (you can't tighten or loosen it), and takes some getting used to, but it's so light that I can play for hours without my bow arm getting tired. I've found that triplets come way easier using that bow, and fast bowing is easier as well. Check out the website (probably www.incredibow.com) to see what they have to offer. The only downside is that they make the bows as they are ordered, so it took several months to get it after ordering it.
Oh, yeah, irishfiddler, those Incredibows! I played one a while back and could see that it might be a nice one to have, especially for a 'travelling bow". Seems indestructible and less sensitive to vagaries of weather.
I really like wooden bows, though. They just look and feel so nice. Spendy little things, however.
Basically, it's next to impossible for a beginner on the fiddle to be able to judge and select a bow because they haven't yet acquired the bowing skills to do this, and won't acquire them for some time. Sadly, a rubbishy bow will only increase this learning time, but the beginner won't realise it. A chicken-and-egg situation.
The best thing is to go to a reputable dealer along with an experienced violinist or violin teacher (preferably yours) to help with the selection (in effect, that person will be making the selection for the beginner). A reputable dealer who is also an experienced player will also be a great help, and many will loan a bow or two for a week so that the player can spend sufficient time playing them in order to make a quality decision.
The only specific advice I'll give is to consider a carbon-fibre bow. Since they are usually about half the price of a wood bow of the same quality they are clearly good value. But here again, take that experienced player or your teacher along with you for hands-on advice.
I think it's all down to what feels good to you, right now. That's what will help you improve your playing. And you don't need to spend a lot of money, necessarily. There are good bows out there for reasonable prices, you just have to shop around and try out a whole bunch of them to find one that works well for you.
I just checked out the incredibow website, and see that their prices have gone up since I bought mine last summer. Still worth it in my opinion, though...haven't used my other bow since the day I received the incredibow. Indestructible, yes, and I haven't lost one hair off the bow yet ( and I do a considerable amount of playing).
My boyfriend is a bowmaker and I have learned a lot about bows from him. I used to think they were not at all important but a good bow can make a big difference in your fiddle playing, both in how it sounds and how much fun it is to play.
I went from a cheap fibreglass bow to a $500 Cdn bow and it sounded way better and was easier to play. But price does not necessarily indicate a good bow. Different bows work better on different instruments. You really have to try a bunch of them out and see how they feel. Currently I am using a cheap Chinese bow (<$100) while I wait for my handmade bow to be completed And really, the cheap bow is quite good.
One thing to think about - a wooden bow can always be repaired, whether it's warped or you break it in two pieces. A synthetic bow cannot be adjusted or repaired in the same way.
Hmmm. Looks like it may be harder than just ordering off the internet! <g> Shoulda figured. When I first started playing I borrowed my niece's violin. It was a so-so student model w/a plastic bow. (My fiddle was off being repaired). I tried her bow for about 2 minutes, then used mine, and it was a world of difference. If I had a *good* bow I expect I'd see a similar difference.
I'm sure the try before you buy advice is right on the mark. Not many options in Juneau though. But I'll head to the music store and start my quest.
I guess what I'm really looking for though is what are the characteristics of a bluegrass bow vs. a classical bow (if any). What weight, bouncy/not bouncy, that sort of thing. I may be wrong, but I suspect a good bow is sort of like good form. It may feel awkward at first, but itn the long run it will make things easier and sound better.
Or maybe it's all just a personal thing with any two fiddlers having two different opinions?
Price doesn't always indicate a good bow, and a bow that works well for one fiddle might not on another. I suffered with a 100 quid bow for a few years, before getting something much much better. Its hard to be a beginner, let alone one on a bad instrument or bow. My bow cost a little under £1000 (made by Roy Collins), it made my old fiddle bearable, my new fiddle sound great, but it just doesn't work with one of my friends fiddles. I'm 16, and I'm hoping I'm set with that for life.
Its finding one that feels right for you- I adopted the not looking at the price tag.. look where that got me.
I teach a few people with coda bows, they love them, but I've always found a wooden bow better suited to me (the bow finds you..)
I've been thinking of getting a coda bow or incredibow type thing for normal use though- at sessions, teaching, and possibly gigging. Its scary to have kids running around with no idea that that piece of wood with hair on it cost so much. The only problem with that is- do you just keep the good bo for at home?
Its all in finding one thats balanced right for you- not in either extreme of weight, or with all the weight at one end.
Kevin:
Check out Sharmusic.com - they will send you bows to try out for a week or so at a nominal cost (to cover shipping). That price will be applied to the cost of the bow if you decide to buy.
Stacy
I deflinately recommend "test-driving" as many different bows as you can to find the one that suits you best. Try the cheap bows as well as the expensive ones; a student of mine bought a $75 bow that is remarkably good. My bow cost almost the same as my fiddle, but it's worth it!
Personally, I like sensitive, "sproingy" bows that have a flexible stick. Wood tends to be more flexible than carbon fibre, in my experience.
Also, this may seem obvious, but before buying a bow, hold it out in front of you and peer down the length of the wood to make sure it's straight. Even expensive bows sometimes warp, and you don't want a warped bow!
Some good advice here, though some bad advice also I'm afraid. Someone said earlier: "I think it's all down to what feels good to you, right now." I think this is bad advice for a beginner. The whole holding a fiddle and a bow thing is such an alien thing for a human to do you really haven't a cat in hell's chance of having what one would call an intuitive feel for what is a good instrument/bow when you are a beginner. Not to mention the near certainty that, whatever the instrument, you will sound like a cat in hell.
I must disagree that what feels (comparatively) good to a beginner isn't important. Even a rank beginner can say which bow feels more comfortable. And if you feel more comfortable, you will practice more.
Think about your first driving lesson--if you got to try a couple of cars, wouldn't you have a preference, even though you knew next to nothing about driving?
But it is true that all beginning fiddlers sound like cat-torturers.
It's true for the most part, however you can tell very quickly who actually is enjoying themselves. The ones who are, tend to lose the cat torture within an hour or so. A beginner and intermediate with a skylark and/or equivilent bow and fiddle does. Even an experienced player has problems with these. Buy the very best you can afford, if looked after it will retain or maybe even increase in value. Avoid at all costs Kapok, Skylark,or Sparrow. Play as many as you can, dont be afraid to pick one up in a shop, tune and play it. You have to think like this "I dont care if it inconveniences your gossip time about the customers, I WILL try this violin out, and that one and that one and that one..........." You will know whats right for you very quickly.
Learning to drive is a good analogy. How do you think you would fare learning to drive in a porsche? Can you imagine trying to learn clutch control in a machine that is so sensitive?
Some one said earlier that they had a bow that was so light they never seemed get tired holding it. Any one who knows what fiddle bows can do knows that weight is vital for the attack and growl you want, and that controlling and balancing the weight on the fulcrums of your choice is what good bowing relies on. Yes, when you are a beginner, the lightest bow you can find will be the easiest. But easy is not what you should want
I got one of the incredibows earlier this year, and it's sitting on the mantle right now. Did'nt care for it.
I have a pretty good bow I got from Southwest Strings- they let me pick several from the catalog and try them for a couple of weeks. I picked the one I liked and sent the rest back.
I should add that I've been playing for a long time- more than twenty years, so I was easier to decide what I wanted, but still not that easy.
You might ask someone you know who is a good player to go with you to the local shop to try some bows out. What he or she likes may turn out to be different than what you eventually decide you like, but at least you'll be less likely to pay too much for something really lousey.
The way a stone mason uses his mallet is a great example. It's all in the control of the balance. I know a wizened old stonemason with arms as thin as twigs who can tap away all day. And yet I can't even lift the same hammer for more that a few minutes, purely because I can't hold it right
Michael's point about the disadvantages of ultra-light bows is good. One of my favourite bows for sessions is a carbon-fibre viola bow - satisfyingly heavier than a fiddle bow by about 10gms (that's a guess) - and it works particularly well with my Jay Haide but not quite so well with my old German fiddle, which definitely prefers a good pernambuco violin bow. Just goes to show that bows and fiddles need to be matched for the best results.
I'll hazard a guess that if you want a really light bow for playing Irish music and music of the baroque era (from which Irish fiddle music is descended) then a baroque bow would be the choice (_not_ an incredibow!). I imagine you'd need to choose the strings carefully in that case.
Yeah, I've enjoyed playing with a viola bow, too, though I came to it by playing a friend's octave strung fiddle (the extra weight of the viola bow helped move the heavier gauge strings). Very nice feel for crunchy triplets, and more bow for long soaring runs on one stroke.
I have a couple of good pernaumbuco bows, but my main session bow is a carbon Coda Classic--indestructible, responsive, and powerful when needed. A good value for $700 USD.
Maybe this should be a new thread, but since all the bow experts are already here, I have another bow question. This is the background. My father had the one bow, the one fiddle (same strings unless one broke) until he was near 70. Then, for some reason, he needed a bow. I was teaching in Dublin at the time, went into Walton's, and bought him a new bow. I wasn't a fiddler, so I bought one that I could afford (teacher's salary at the time was about 400 punt a year), looked nice, and was recommended by the saleman. Dad was delighted with it. Having inherited the fiddle and the bow (and trying to learn late in life), I now realize that the bow is not full size. I don't have a measure handy, but I'd say it's between 2 and 2.5 inches shorter than full size. What are the pros/cons of using a short bow versus a full-size one?
Mairtin
I have a slightly smaller bow also that lives in my case. It's the same weight as my full size bow and a really tough pernaumbuco little thing with bags of character. I picked it up in a junk shop in Paris. It's great for crammped busy sessions, but really, it's just not long enough. Simple as that.
Ceart go leor. That's one No. To expand on my question: Does one size fit all. Fiddlers come in different sizes, so why is there one standard size? For example, I do a little road racing (cycling). The bicycle frames come in different sizes to accommodate diff height cyclists. However, the crankarms (to which the pedals are attached) are usually 170 mm. but tests show that shorter cyclists would benefit from 165 and taller ones could do with 175 or longer.
Mairtin
I sometimes use a 3/4 bow, I have been thinking about using one in sessions as I like to sit with one ear on a mandolin or flute. As for a comparative to road racing - you are sort of right. However the sizes are a standard based on the average and unless you have ogre sized hands being taller with longer arms is probably an advantage in positional work and a basic hold. I dont know, I am short and everything is a stretch.
Interesting to learn about the crank arms, I gave up as my knees kept whacking my breasts.
Right, Jose. I'm also very short, and since many things are built/made for the average/normal??? size person, my ? would be: Is the standard full-size bow the best for all players, regardless of size. At about 5'4" would the same size bow suit me as a 6'4" player (I'm assuming that his arms would be longer than mine)? BTW, re the cycling, there are many factors affecting fit . . . frame size and geometry, seat height, etc. (which is why serious cyclists who can afford it have custom cycles made, like suits, etc., etc.)
Mairtin
its one of those things thats in the same basket as the meaning of life. Dont sweat about it. The bow length is more to do with how much you would use the bow, not how long your arms are. As always there are exceptions to the rule, if you were a midget then obviously a 4/4 bow and fiddle could be a problem. If anything I would go for a 4/4 bow - the very best you could afford and like and good rosin.
Fiddle bow primer...
Fiddle bow primer...
I'm a new fiddler, been learning about two months now so I don't know much about the instrument yet. I took my fiddle over to my son's violin teacher and as soon as he took the bow out of the case he said "Bow not so good". He was more favorible toward my fiddle (a Stainer copy by Neuner & Hornsteiner in Mittenvald) although he's Chinese and speaks somewhat broken English so sometimes it's a challange to figure out exactly what he's saying.
He thought the bridge could be better - he said 'harder' although I'm not sure how he can tell how hard a piece of maple is looking at it. The logo says JeG on it. Haven't a clue how to judge a bridge.
Anyway, my bow does need replacing. I don't have a clue however as to what to look for in a decent bow, nor what brands/models to look at. I want to play Irish, bluegrass, old-timer sort of tunes so something that is appropriate for that sort of music. Naturally I don't want to spend more than I have to, but at 49 it's probable that I won't be upgrading it anytime soon. If I could get a decent stick for $75 that would be great but I suspect a couple hundred is more likely. But I just don't know.
So, any pearls fo wisdom for me? Any good sites that cover the basics of what to look for in these matters?
Thanks much...
...Kevin
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by atftb
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Kevin, I went through the Search for A Bow a few years back. A cheap plastic one came with my student fiddle, and I began feeling limited by it in the second year I was learning to play. I even had to wind fishing weight wire around the bow to get some approximation of the weight and balance that felt right.
I just test-drove a lot of bows; every time I was in a city with good music shops, I took my fiddle and tried out bows. I tried not to look at the price tags, but just played. The one that chose me cost more than I expected to pay, (and more than my student fiddle) but I haven't had a moment of regret. It is ready for some new hair, though.
I know that some people have really liked the bows that they bought from Southwest Strings and they are pretty reasonably priced. Good service, too.
Happy hunting. I think a good bow can make a lot of difference in your playing. Get a good one, and you'll grow in to it.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by Batlady
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
I bought an Incredibow last year, and I couldn't be happier with it. It only cost $70, which makes it even better. It's a bit bouncy (you can't tighten or loosen it), and takes some getting used to, but it's so light that I can play for hours without my bow arm getting tired. I've found that triplets come way easier using that bow, and fast bowing is easier as well. Check out the website (probably www.incredibow.com) to see what they have to offer. The only downside is that they make the bows as they are ordered, so it took several months to get it after ordering it.
Good luck with the fiddling!
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by irishfiddler32
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Oh, yeah, irishfiddler, those Incredibows! I played one a while back and could see that it might be a nice one to have, especially for a 'travelling bow". Seems indestructible and less sensitive to vagaries of weather.
I really like wooden bows, though. They just look and feel so nice. Spendy little things, however.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by Batlady
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Basically, it's next to impossible for a beginner on the fiddle to be able to judge and select a bow because they haven't yet acquired the bowing skills to do this, and won't acquire them for some time. Sadly, a rubbishy bow will only increase this learning time, but the beginner won't realise it. A chicken-and-egg situation.
The best thing is to go to a reputable dealer along with an experienced violinist or violin teacher (preferably yours) to help with the selection (in effect, that person will be making the selection for the beginner). A reputable dealer who is also an experienced player will also be a great help, and many will loan a bow or two for a week so that the player can spend sufficient time playing them in order to make a quality decision.
The only specific advice I'll give is to consider a carbon-fibre bow. Since they are usually about half the price of a wood bow of the same quality they are clearly good value. But here again, take that experienced player or your teacher along with you for hands-on advice.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by lazyhound
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
I think it's all down to what feels good to you, right now. That's what will help you improve your playing. And you don't need to spend a lot of money, necessarily. There are good bows out there for reasonable prices, you just have to shop around and try out a whole bunch of them to find one that works well for you.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by mickray
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
I just checked out the incredibow website, and see that their prices have gone up since I bought mine last summer. Still worth it in my opinion, though...haven't used my other bow since the day I received the incredibow. Indestructible, yes, and I haven't lost one hair off the bow yet ( and I do a considerable amount of playing).
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by irishfiddler32
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Hi Kevin,
My boyfriend is a bowmaker and I have learned a lot about bows from him. I used to think they were not at all important but a good bow can make a big difference in your fiddle playing, both in how it sounds and how much fun it is to play.
I went from a cheap fibreglass bow to a $500 Cdn bow and it sounded way better and was easier to play. But price does not necessarily indicate a good bow. Different bows work better on different instruments. You really have to try a bunch of them out and see how they feel. Currently I am using a cheap Chinese bow (<$100) while I wait for my handmade bow to be completed
And really, the cheap bow is quite good.
One thing to think about - a wooden bow can always be repaired, whether it's warped or you break it in two pieces. A synthetic bow cannot be adjusted or repaired in the same way.
Judy
P.S. My boyfriend's website - www.gregdahms.ca
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by JudyK
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Hmmm. Looks like it may be harder than just ordering off the internet! <g> Shoulda figured. When I first started playing I borrowed my niece's violin. It was a so-so student model w/a plastic bow. (My fiddle was off being repaired). I tried her bow for about 2 minutes, then used mine, and it was a world of difference. If I had a *good* bow I expect I'd see a similar difference.
I'm sure the try before you buy advice is right on the mark. Not many options in Juneau though. But I'll head to the music store and start my quest.
I guess what I'm really looking for though is what are the characteristics of a bluegrass bow vs. a classical bow (if any). What weight, bouncy/not bouncy, that sort of thing. I may be wrong, but I suspect a good bow is sort of like good form. It may feel awkward at first, but itn the long run it will make things easier and sound better.
Or maybe it's all just a personal thing with any two fiddlers having two different opinions?
Cheers...
...Kevin
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by atftb
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Price doesn't always indicate a good bow, and a bow that works well for one fiddle might not on another. I suffered with a 100 quid bow for a few years, before getting something much much better. Its hard to be a beginner, let alone one on a bad instrument or bow. My bow cost a little under £1000 (made by Roy Collins), it made my old fiddle bearable, my new fiddle sound great, but it just doesn't work with one of my friends fiddles. I'm 16, and I'm hoping I'm set with that for life.
Its finding one that feels right for you- I adopted the not looking at the price tag.. look where that got me.
I teach a few people with coda bows, they love them, but I've always found a wooden bow better suited to me (the bow finds you..)
I've been thinking of getting a coda bow or incredibow type thing for normal use though- at sessions, teaching, and possibly gigging. Its scary to have kids running around with no idea that that piece of wood with hair on it cost so much. The only problem with that is- do you just keep the good bo for at home?
Its all in finding one thats balanced right for you- not in either extreme of weight, or with all the weight at one end.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by Sean Clery
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Kevin:
Check out Sharmusic.com - they will send you bows to try out for a week or so at a nominal cost (to cover shipping). That price will be applied to the cost of the bow if you decide to buy.
Stacy
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by fatcat
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
The best bow you can find/get/afford is worth the pursuit.
A bad bow can teach you a lot about fighting your gear - a waste of time since you'll just have to unlearn it to move on.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by ratbiscuit
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
I deflinately recommend "test-driving" as many different bows as you can to find the one that suits you best. Try the cheap bows as well as the expensive ones; a student of mine bought a $75 bow that is remarkably good. My bow cost almost the same as my fiddle, but it's worth it!
Personally, I like sensitive, "sproingy" bows that have a flexible stick. Wood tends to be more flexible than carbon fibre, in my experience.
Also, this may seem obvious, but before buying a bow, hold it out in front of you and peer down the length of the wood to make sure it's straight. Even expensive bows sometimes warp, and you don't want a warped bow!
Good luck.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by treecipitation
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Recently bought a Gutz bow, cost £230, it's very nice.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by curlew
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Some good advice here, though some bad advice also I'm afraid. Someone said earlier: "I think it's all down to what feels good to you, right now." I think this is bad advice for a beginner. The whole holding a fiddle and a bow thing is such an alien thing for a human to do you really haven't a cat in hell's chance of having what one would call an intuitive feel for what is a good instrument/bow when you are a beginner. Not to mention the near certainty that, whatever the instrument, you will sound like a cat in hell.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by llig leahcim
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
I must disagree that what feels (comparatively) good to a beginner isn't important. Even a rank beginner can say which bow feels more comfortable. And if you feel more comfortable, you will practice more.
Think about your first driving lesson--if you got to try a couple of cars, wouldn't you have a preference, even though you knew next to nothing about driving?
But it is true that all beginning fiddlers sound like cat-torturers.
# Posted on June 26th 2006 by mickray
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
It's true for the most part, however you can tell very quickly who actually is enjoying themselves. The ones who are, tend to lose the cat torture within an hour or so. A beginner and intermediate with a skylark and/or equivilent bow and fiddle does. Even an experienced player has problems with these. Buy the very best you can afford, if looked after it will retain or maybe even increase in value. Avoid at all costs Kapok, Skylark,or Sparrow. Play as many as you can, dont be afraid to pick one up in a shop, tune and play it. You have to think like this "I dont care if it inconveniences your gossip time about the customers, I WILL try this violin out, and that one and that one and that one..........." You will know whats right for you very quickly.
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by Joze
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Learning to drive is a good analogy. How do you think you would fare learning to drive in a porsche? Can you imagine trying to learn clutch control in a machine that is so sensitive?
Some one said earlier that they had a bow that was so light they never seemed get tired holding it. Any one who knows what fiddle bows can do knows that weight is vital for the attack and growl you want, and that controlling and balancing the weight on the fulcrums of your choice is what good bowing relies on. Yes, when you are a beginner, the lightest bow you can find will be the easiest. But easy is not what you should want
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by llig leahcim
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
I got one of the incredibows earlier this year, and it's sitting on the mantle right now. Did'nt care for it.
I have a pretty good bow I got from Southwest Strings- they let me pick several from the catalog and try them for a couple of weeks. I picked the one I liked and sent the rest back.
I should add that I've been playing for a long time- more than twenty years, so I was easier to decide what I wanted, but still not that easy.
You might ask someone you know who is a good player to go with you to the local shop to try some bows out. What he or she likes may turn out to be different than what you eventually decide you like, but at least you'll be less likely to pay too much for something really lousey.
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by Murph
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
The way a stone mason uses his mallet is a great example. It's all in the control of the balance. I know a wizened old stonemason with arms as thin as twigs who can tap away all day. And yet I can't even lift the same hammer for more that a few minutes, purely because I can't hold it right
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by llig leahcim
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Michael's point about the disadvantages of ultra-light bows is good. One of my favourite bows for sessions is a carbon-fibre viola bow - satisfyingly heavier than a fiddle bow by about 10gms (that's a guess) - and it works particularly well with my Jay Haide but not quite so well with my old German fiddle, which definitely prefers a good pernambuco violin bow. Just goes to show that bows and fiddles need to be matched for the best results.
I'll hazard a guess that if you want a really light bow for playing Irish music and music of the baroque era (from which Irish fiddle music is descended) then a baroque bow would be the choice (_not_ an incredibow!). I imagine you'd need to choose the strings carefully in that case.
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by lazyhound
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Yeah, I've enjoyed playing with a viola bow, too, though I came to it by playing a friend's octave strung fiddle (the extra weight of the viola bow helped move the heavier gauge strings). Very nice feel for crunchy triplets, and more bow for long soaring runs on one stroke.
I have a couple of good pernaumbuco bows, but my main session bow is a carbon Coda Classic--indestructible, responsive, and powerful when needed. A good value for $700 USD.
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by Will CPT
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Maybe this should be a new thread, but since all the bow experts are already here, I have another bow question. This is the background. My father had the one bow, the one fiddle (same strings unless one broke) until he was near 70. Then, for some reason, he needed a bow. I was teaching in Dublin at the time, went into Walton's, and bought him a new bow. I wasn't a fiddler, so I bought one that I could afford (teacher's salary at the time was about 400 punt a year), looked nice, and was recommended by the saleman. Dad was delighted with it. Having inherited the fiddle and the bow (and trying to learn late in life), I now realize that the bow is not full size. I don't have a measure handy, but I'd say it's between 2 and 2.5 inches shorter than full size. What are the pros/cons of using a short bow versus a full-size one?
Mairtin
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by frozenstiff
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
I have a slightly smaller bow also that lives in my case. It's the same weight as my full size bow and a really tough pernaumbuco little thing with bags of character. I picked it up in a junk shop in Paris. It's great for crammped busy sessions, but really, it's just not long enough. Simple as that.
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by llig leahcim
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Ceart go leor. That's one No. To expand on my question: Does one size fit all. Fiddlers come in different sizes, so why is there one standard size? For example, I do a little road racing (cycling). The bicycle frames come in different sizes to accommodate diff height cyclists. However, the crankarms (to which the pedals are attached) are usually 170 mm. but tests show that shorter cyclists would benefit from 165 and taller ones could do with 175 or longer.
Mairtin
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by frozenstiff
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
I sometimes use a 3/4 bow, I have been thinking about using one in sessions as I like to sit with one ear on a mandolin or flute. As for a comparative to road racing - you are sort of right. However the sizes are a standard based on the average and unless you have ogre sized hands being taller with longer arms is probably an advantage in positional work and a basic hold. I dont know, I am short and everything is a stretch.
Interesting to learn about the crank arms, I gave up as my knees kept whacking my breasts.
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by Joze
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Right, Jose. I'm also very short, and since many things are built/made for the average/normal??? size person, my ? would be: Is the standard full-size bow the best for all players, regardless of size. At about 5'4" would the same size bow suit me as a 6'4" player (I'm assuming that his arms would be longer than mine)? BTW, re the cycling, there are many factors affecting fit . . . frame size and geometry, seat height, etc. (which is why serious cyclists who can afford it have custom cycles made, like suits, etc., etc.)
Mairtin
# Posted on June 27th 2006 by frozenstiff
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
its one of those things thats in the same basket as the meaning of life. Dont sweat about it. The bow length is more to do with how much you would use the bow, not how long your arms are. As always there are exceptions to the rule, if you were a midget then obviously a 4/4 bow and fiddle could be a problem. If anything I would go for a 4/4 bow - the very best you could afford and like and good rosin.
# Posted on June 28th 2006 by Joze
Re: Fiddle bow primer...
Just re-read this old thread, that should read 'Gotz' bow, made in Germany................must be my old eyes.
Though the 'O' does look a bit like a'U'.
# Posted on August 31st 2006 by curlew