I'm sure you'll have realised this, and it's probably why the soundpost fell down, but if there's no soundpost it's very important not to tension the strings. (That means the bridge is loose, of course, so keep that safe.)
Replacing the soundpost is a basic repair task for any decent violin repairer. If that's impossible for practical or financial reasons it's possible to do it yourself after a bit of research, and with care.
Soundposts shrink with age, so you've only got to slaken off all the strings and the soundpost will likely fall over. I had it happen on my cello once, when I went about changing the tailpiece (which means slackening the strings and taking the bridge down).
The exact position of the soundpost in relation to the bridge is extremely important if you want good response and tone out of your fiddle. Fractions of a millimetre here really do matter.
If you want to do the job yourself, and get a first approximation, there are some things you can do to help things along. First, see where the bridge was placed. Perhaps a silly thing to suggest, I know, but the location of the bridge defines where the soundpost goes. For the great majority of fiddles the bridge is normally located exactly between those two little notches you'll see cut into the sides of the f-holes. If it's an oldish fiddle you'll also expect to see the marks on the belly where the feet of the bridge sat before it went down (at this stage don't clean off those marks!). The soundpost should be "about" 1/4 inch behind the treble foot (E-string) of the bridge, between the bridge and the tailpiece. The exact position can have a dramatic effect on the tone and performance of the fiddle, so this is where the luthier's skill comes in. Have a careful look at other fiddles to see how the soundpost is placed. With your old fiddle you may possibly see a mark on the inside of its back showing where the old soundpost was.
The soundpost when fitted should also be exactly perpendicular between the back and the front of the fiddle. The length of the soundpost is also critical. In your case it will probably be a fraction longer than the old one, which has probably shrunk. It shouldn't be so long that it needs to be forced in, because that puts a great strain on the instrument and could well do expensive damage. On the other hand it shouldn't be so slack that it needs the pressure of the strings to hold it in place. It should slip in easily but just hold in position without the strings provided you don't do any silly like waving the instrument around or jolting it. The ends of the soundpost should be contoured - you don't want a sharp edge that digs into the wood at either end.
You'll also need a special tool to insert the soundpost through the f-hole and into position. A fine-bladed knife might do the trick in the absence of anything more suitable, but make very sure you don't damage the edges of the f-hole. Many luthiers probably make their own tools for this sort of thing.
Inserting the soundpost is where the real fun starts, and this final stage of the process has been known to reduce grown men to tears with frustration! Perhaps there is something to be said for getting the expert repairer to do the job, and with any luck he may let you watch him do it. He may also look at other aspects of your fiddle - the bridge, pegs, cracks, etc - and may suggest what also needs to be done. Fiddles, after all, like anything mechanical, do wear out in time and need servicing.
My local violin supplier set up my fiddle originally and as I improved in playing I realised it didn't sound right. Then I went to a very reputable violin supplier/repairer and was pleased with the adjustment to the soundpost ...for about 18 months until I began to feel that the sound quality wasn't all it could be and my violin teahcer (who said the sound was uneven across the strings) recommended another repairer who, of course, lived even further away. It was actually quite a cheap repair, apart from the travel costs, and a new soundpost of a different length was fitted and adjusted. My fiddle (which is perhaps 200 years old) now sounds incredible (to me anyway). A rather long story, but what I'm saying is find the best most highly recommended person you can to do the job! Adjustment to the soundpost made enormous difference to the sound quality of mine
Thanks alot guys. I've had my fiddle for a long time and bought it in Saint Louis, Missouri. I had gone through alot of fiddles before I found this one. I'm 18 and I've been playing since I was around 13 so this is the first time I've had this problem.
Uilleann piper Tommy Martin told me "you've got to be quite the handyman to be a traditional musician" and the older I get, the more I see this.
Fiddle Logistics
Fiddle Logistics
Well, heres whats up.
My good auld fiddle I've had for eons, something's happened.
I think that the stick peice that holds up the inside of the fiddle came lose and was rattling around inside my fiddle.
I coaxed it loose and now its seperated from my fiddle.
Is this hard for someone to repair? And on top of everything else, I lost the stick peice. Yes Im a horrid person. Ha!
So with all that said, should I just junk it or is it repairable?
Thanks!
# Posted on July 3rd 2005 by Harper_Lad
Re: Fiddle Logistics
It sounds like its your soundpost. No problem. It's a standard job to replace it.
# Posted on July 3rd 2005 by craigwebster
Re: Fiddle Logistics
I'm sure you'll have realised this, and it's probably why the soundpost fell down, but if there's no soundpost it's very important not to tension the strings. (That means the bridge is loose, of course, so keep that safe.)
Replacing the soundpost is a basic repair task for any decent violin repairer. If that's impossible for practical or financial reasons it's possible to do it yourself after a bit of research, and with care.
# Posted on July 3rd 2005 by TomB-R
Re: Fiddle Logistics
Soundposts shrink with age, so you've only got to slaken off all the strings and the soundpost will likely fall over. I had it happen on my cello once, when I went about changing the tailpiece (which means slackening the strings and taking the bridge down).
The exact position of the soundpost in relation to the bridge is extremely important if you want good response and tone out of your fiddle. Fractions of a millimetre here really do matter.
If you want to do the job yourself, and get a first approximation, there are some things you can do to help things along. First, see where the bridge was placed. Perhaps a silly thing to suggest, I know, but the location of the bridge defines where the soundpost goes. For the great majority of fiddles the bridge is normally located exactly between those two little notches you'll see cut into the sides of the f-holes. If it's an oldish fiddle you'll also expect to see the marks on the belly where the feet of the bridge sat before it went down (at this stage don't clean off those marks!). The soundpost should be "about" 1/4 inch behind the treble foot (E-string) of the bridge, between the bridge and the tailpiece. The exact position can have a dramatic effect on the tone and performance of the fiddle, so this is where the luthier's skill comes in. Have a careful look at other fiddles to see how the soundpost is placed. With your old fiddle you may possibly see a mark on the inside of its back showing where the old soundpost was.
The soundpost when fitted should also be exactly perpendicular between the back and the front of the fiddle. The length of the soundpost is also critical. In your case it will probably be a fraction longer than the old one, which has probably shrunk. It shouldn't be so long that it needs to be forced in, because that puts a great strain on the instrument and could well do expensive damage. On the other hand it shouldn't be so slack that it needs the pressure of the strings to hold it in place. It should slip in easily but just hold in position without the strings provided you don't do any silly like waving the instrument around or jolting it. The ends of the soundpost should be contoured - you don't want a sharp edge that digs into the wood at either end.
You'll also need a special tool to insert the soundpost through the f-hole and into position. A fine-bladed knife might do the trick in the absence of anything more suitable, but make very sure you don't damage the edges of the f-hole. Many luthiers probably make their own tools for this sort of thing.
Inserting the soundpost is where the real fun starts, and this final stage of the process has been known to reduce grown men to tears with frustration! Perhaps there is something to be said for getting the expert repairer to do the job, and with any luck he may let you watch him do it. He may also look at other aspects of your fiddle - the bridge, pegs, cracks, etc - and may suggest what also needs to be done. Fiddles, after all, like anything mechanical, do wear out in time and need servicing.
Best of luck!
Trevor
# Posted on July 4th 2005 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Fiddle Logistics
My local violin supplier set up my fiddle originally and as I improved in playing I realised it didn't sound right. Then I went to a very reputable violin supplier/repairer and was pleased with the adjustment to the soundpost ...for about 18 months until I began to feel that the sound quality wasn't all it could be and my violin teahcer (who said the sound was uneven across the strings) recommended another repairer who, of course, lived even further away. It was actually quite a cheap repair, apart from the travel costs, and a new soundpost of a different length was fitted and adjusted. My fiddle (which is perhaps 200 years old) now sounds incredible (to me anyway). A rather long story, but what I'm saying is find the best most highly recommended person you can to do the job! Adjustment to the soundpost made enormous difference to the sound quality of mine
# Posted on July 4th 2005 by carly
Re: Fiddle Logistics
Thanks alot guys. I've had my fiddle for a long time and bought it in Saint Louis, Missouri. I had gone through alot of fiddles before I found this one. I'm 18 and I've been playing since I was around 13 so this is the first time I've had this problem.
Uilleann piper Tommy Martin told me "you've got to be quite the handyman to be a traditional musician" and the older I get, the more I see this.
# Posted on July 4th 2005 by Harper_Lad
Re: Fiddle Logistics
Another thing with soundposts is that sometimes after extreme weather changes they need to be adjusted. My first fiddle had to be adjusted seasonally.
# Posted on July 12th 2005 by musicfan