I posted this yesterday in an old discussion, but I don't think anyone goes to ones that stopped a year ago - hence the new thread...
I have a Fylde arch top bouzouki with octave strings and I'm thinking of changing to unison. How do I deal with the beautifully cut grooves on the nut? When I did this on my old bouzouki (an ozark), I, ahem, took a sharp knife to the nut to widen the slot for the thicker strings. I'm less keen to do that with the Fylde, particularly since the slots have been cut to different depths as well - and the narrower guages are the ones cut deeper.
Any advice?
BTW, I thought of calling this thread something like 'How should I cut up my bouzouki?' but reckoned most people would answer "quickly!" or similar...
Here I go again......
First, go back several pages to the discussion I posted about improved bouzouki bridges.
Then follow the link someone else posted ( thanks, friend ) to Red Henrys' site on mandolin bridge improvements.
Then, makeyourself a new bridge following his instructions, and you will have an even better-sounding 'zouk.
You can always keep the old bridge for if you want to change back to octave stringing, but if you're like me you'll want a Red Henry-pattern bridge for that stringing too.
But beware.....once you realise you can improve your bouzouki it starts a pattern of behaviour that becomes addictive.
You could probably just take it to a guitar shop. Any competent luthier who caters to electric guitarists should be able to do the job on a new nut and install it for you. (And maybe keep yer old one if you decide to go back.) Then again, luthiers don;t work for free, so the DIY route might be best.
Stewmac's nut files are good, but it's a lot of money to spend if it's a one-off job. A rat-tailed needle file should do the job. You can use the appropriate part of the taper to get the required slot width. This should not be a problem, as the thicker strings will not fit into the original slots. But take great care to ensure that the new strings are seated in the nut (and saddle) at the same height as the other string in the pair.
I was assuming, MG, that having done the job at least once before, he would be likely to do it again and would appreciate having the right tools for the job. I slotted guitar nuts for gumpteen years using various odd files and razor saws, but since I got the graduated nut files, the job is a lot quicker and less glitchy.
Are the strings breaking where they touch the bridge saddle? That could mean the break point on the saddle is too sharp or the inclination is too steep.
I should add that I somehow omitted a sentence from my previous post. "This should not be a problem..." was supposed to be a reference to the fact that the slots for the thinner strings are deeper than those for the thicker ones (as they should be).
I changed my fylde archtop from octave to unison a couple of years ago ,brilliant idea.,all i did was use the g string itself to cut into the nut. a wound 44 is an excellent cutting tool, its worth a try , it worked brilliantly for me.
Let me respectfully offer a contrary opinion on using a string to cut the string slot. Because the cutting string will bend over the edge of the nut, it will be hard to avoid putting a curving slope at the business edge of the slot. This will compromise the accuracy of the break point for the playing string. You might get away with it and not notice any problems, but you might affect the intonation of that string or introduce a slight distortion in it’s vibration. The slot needs to slop slightly downward from the business edge toward the peg head.
DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
I posted this yesterday in an old discussion, but I don't think anyone goes to ones that stopped a year ago - hence the new thread...
I have a Fylde arch top bouzouki with octave strings and I'm thinking of changing to unison. How do I deal with the beautifully cut grooves on the nut? When I did this on my old bouzouki (an ozark), I, ahem, took a sharp knife to the nut to widen the slot for the thicker strings. I'm less keen to do that with the Fylde, particularly since the slots have been cut to different depths as well - and the narrower guages are the ones cut deeper.
Any advice?
BTW, I thought of calling this thread something like 'How should I cut up my bouzouki?' but reckoned most people would answer "quickly!" or similar...
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by Alister
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
Are you sure you want to DIY? If so go straight to http://www.stewmac.com/ and buy yourself a set of nut slotting files. It's worth it.
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by Bob himself
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
Here I go again......
First, go back several pages to the discussion I posted about improved bouzouki bridges.
Then follow the link someone else posted ( thanks, friend ) to Red Henrys' site on mandolin bridge improvements.
Then, makeyourself a new bridge following his instructions, and you will have an even better-sounding 'zouk.
You can always keep the old bridge for if you want to change back to octave stringing, but if you're like me you'll want a Red Henry-pattern bridge for that stringing too.
But beware.....once you realise you can improve your bouzouki it starts a pattern of behaviour that becomes addictive.
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by Guernsey Pete
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
You could probably just take it to a guitar shop. Any competent luthier who caters to electric guitarists should be able to do the job on a new nut and install it for you. (And maybe keep yer old one if you decide to go back.) Then again, luthiers don;t work for free, so the DIY route might be best.
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by wormdiet
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
Stewmac's nut files are good, but it's a lot of money to spend if it's a one-off job. A rat-tailed needle file should do the job. You can use the appropriate part of the taper to get the required slot width. This should not be a problem, as the thicker strings will not fit into the original slots. But take great care to ensure that the new strings are seated in the nut (and saddle) at the same height as the other string in the pair.
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by CreadurMawnOrganig
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
I was assuming, MG, that having done the job at least once before, he would be likely to do it again and would appreciate having the right tools for the job. I slotted guitar nuts for gumpteen years using various odd files and razor saws, but since I got the graduated nut files, the job is a lot quicker and less glitchy.
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by Bob himself
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
I much prefer unison strings - but i keep breakin em at the bridge - whats that all about?
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by Hugo Chavez
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
Are the strings breaking where they touch the bridge saddle? That could mean the break point on the saddle is too sharp or the inclination is too steep.
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by Bob himself
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
Fair point, Bob (re: nut files).
I should add that I somehow omitted a sentence from my previous post. "This should not be a problem..." was supposed to be a reference to the fact that the slots for the thinner strings are deeper than those for the thicker ones (as they should be).
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by CreadurMawnOrganig
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
Thanks bob
they pretty much break where i strum...Its not too annoying but its about 1 string a gig - so every time i play a session...
# Posted on February 16th 2005 by Hugo Chavez
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
They break where you strum? Hmmm... Are you by any chance strumming with a knife or a file? What kind of strings are you using?
# Posted on February 17th 2005 by Bob himself
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
I changed my fylde archtop from octave to unison a couple of years ago ,brilliant idea.,all i did was use the g string itself to cut into the nut. a wound 44 is an excellent cutting tool, its worth a try , it worked brilliantly for me.
# Posted on February 23rd 2005 by johnboy
Re: DIY Luthier Seeks Guidance...
Let me respectfully offer a contrary opinion on using a string to cut the string slot. Because the cutting string will bend over the edge of the nut, it will be hard to avoid putting a curving slope at the business edge of the slot. This will compromise the accuracy of the break point for the playing string. You might get away with it and not notice any problems, but you might affect the intonation of that string or introduce a slight distortion in it’s vibration. The slot needs to slop slightly downward from the business edge toward the peg head.
# Posted on February 23rd 2005 by Bob himself