Hi folks, I've searched the archives but didn't find an answer to my question so all you experts out there I need some help.
I need to replace the bridge on my fiddle. (it's warped)
I've been looking online and have seen high, medium and low bridges. What difference does the height make and does anyone have any opinions (of course you do) on fitted bridges?
You guys are always the best source of info anywhere so thanks in advance.
You're going to have to shape the bridge no matter what - easy enough to do. Without seeing your violin, it's impossible to say which will fit most closely, but the highest should be safest. A lot of times it's easier to simply take it to a maker. If you shape the bridge, be sure and pay attn to the feet, sometimes they're not cut the best.
Try leaving your bridge in a shallow bowl of water overnight. It should straighten out. I did this to mine two or three years ago and it's still straight.
Definitely let a pro cut your bridge...he/she will however be able to carve it flatter or not so flat depending on how many drone/double stops you play and how esy you want it to be...
You can try soaking in water, then press between 2 weighted objects, but make sure it is dry before putting it back, otherwise it will warp again.
I would take it to a luthier, tough, and cough up the bucks for a new bridge
bring it to a pro. Shaping the feet is very easy, all you have to do is tape a peice of very thin sand paper to the belly and then you can rub the bridge up and down until the profile is perfect. you can also get a bridge with self adjusting feet to avoid having to do this. the E string should have a clearence of 3 mm above the end of the fingerboard and the G string should have 5 mm cleareance. Once you have these guides marked, just tranfer the curve of the fingerboard to the new bridge. The problem with changing or messing around with the bridge is not normally the bridge itself but the sound post found inside a fiddle on the trible side of the strings. This is held in by friction only and when you let the strings loose is always likely for this to fall loose and is a nightmare to replace. The location of this post is vital to a fiddle and for this reason you should contact a pro. You don't have to totally let the tension of the strings when messing with the bridge.
I've been using a bridge with self-adjusting feet for the past 8 months and have no complaints, sound quality or otherwise.
I've had 3 or 4 different bridges on this fiddle. With the caveat of not having screwed around with the sound post at all, the only thing that has noticeably changed the fiddle's tone in my opinion has been a change of strings (anybody else given the D'Addario Zyex core strings a try? they're fantastic).
Whether or not such a bridge diminishes tone quality, I have not the experience to comment. I'd have to guess that my own technique contributes more to a reduction in tone quality than my bridge!
I didn't pick it because of the feet. I liked its playability when put on my instrument (pitch between the strings and action) and it didn't make it sound like crap, so that was good enough for me.
As an example of the essential fine detail in bridge fitting - which means you should *always* get the job done by a qualified professional - I offer you this:
the side of a correctly fitting bridge facing the tailpiece should always be exactly vertical to the belly at that point. If you don't know this, and how to achieve it, you're going to end up with a bridge that can't stand up perfectly straight and also have the full area of the feet in intimate contact with the belly.
Now and then, check the vertical alignment of the bridge to make sure the back is vertical to the belly, and CAREFULLY ease it into position if it isn't. The process of tuning the fiddle, or changing strings, (and even playing) will gradually alter the vertical alignment, usually making the bridge lean slightly towards the fingerboard, and destroying the complete contact of the feet area with the belly which is essential for proper transmission of vibrations from the strings to the belly.
A bridge with adjustable feet may be satisfactory with some instruments, but as a general rule I'd say they are useful only as an emergency measure if the proper bridge breaks in an accident, and you're gigging on tour miles away from a repair shop (but then, you'll probably have a second fiddle with you anyway).
If a soundpost falls over when the strings are let down for bridge or tailpiece replacement, then that is a sure sign the soundpost needs replacing, probably because it has shrunk slightly - certainly a job for the luthier. A properly fitted soundpost should remain in place on an unstrung instrument, provided you don't treat the fiddle roughly or squeeze it either side of the f-holes. On the other hand, it shouldn't be so tight that it could distort or damage the back of the fiddle - quite apart from that very expensive possibility, the soundpost wouldn't be transmitting the vibrations as it should. In addition to the correct placement and dimensions of the soundpost, there are interesting little details for the luthier to attend to, such as the correct profiling of the ends of the soundpost and even the direction of the grain of its wood relative to the axis of the fiddle. A luthier in Bristol told me that fitting a soundpost can easily reduce a grown man to tears!
Thanks everyone. I will take it to a pro now that I've read all your replies. I was hoping I wouldn't have to because that means a trip to the "big city" for this country girl which is a very tramatic driving experience for me. Also last time I went to a "pro" to get my bow rehaired he had it for 3 months. Don't want to do without my favorite fiddle that long. Thanks again, I value your opinions and expertise.
A few words from an amateur hopefully not repeating too much what others have said: I bought an old fiddle recently and wanted to lower the bridge because the E string was a bit high for me, but being cautious I didn't want to mess with the old bridge but keep it for reference. So I drew round the old one on some scrap paper without taking it off the fiddle, and took my tracing to the music shop and rummaged through all the bridges they had - the best fit was a nicely made one with adjustable feet - it was a low one (only buy the best quality and even then it's not a very expensive investment). I then carefully removed the old bridge by slackening the strings - you want to treat the fiddle carefully so the soundpost doesn't get knocked loose when the strings are slackened. Then I drew round the old bridge against the new one and used a big blob of bluetac to hold the new bridge over the edge of a workbench while I carefully filed it to shape. Then mark the string positions with a pencil using the old bridge as reference and carefully cut little grooves using a hacksaw blade or a needle file - I believe the string should only fit one third of its diameter into the groove. Then carefully retune - bring each string up to tension a little at time. The flat edge of the bridge should face the tailpiece and be 90 degrees vertical as mentioned by Trevor. The side that faces the fingerboard is gently curved - anyway, it's fine now and I'm very pleased with the fiddle - the tone is great (I fitted Infield Reds at the same time as recommended by someone in an earlier posting - they sound great). I think the soundpost may need adjusting, and that's something I will take to an expert.
One of the reasons a bridge could warp is tuning your violin...if the strings do not slide easily over the bridge, then as you tune up, the strings pull the bridge toward the scroll..the reverse can also happen where the bridge is leaning towards the tailpiece...every so often, you will need to straighten your bridge..to do this, gently hold the bridge between your thumb and first finger of both hands and tilt it back up so that the BACK side of the bridge (the straight side) is perpendicular to the belly..if you look at the bridge, it is flat on the tailpiece side and curved on the scroll side.
You should put a little lead (pencil) on the bridge where the string troughs are to allow the strings to glide over the bridge without pulling it. Also a bit of lead in the nut will help in tuning also.
I'm echoing everyone saying go to a pro. Bridge cutiing/fitting is more than just setting the height of the strings. Bridges have to be cut to match the type of strings you use (steel strings, being more powerful require a bit less wood coming out of the heart and kidneys of the bridge). A proper bridge cut also acts as a built-in EQ. Thickness is also important, as is the top of the bridge. A lot of bridges warp because they are too thin. Some also warp because of the way the crown is cut. You can make a bridge work without a pro doing it, but it won't work as well. Your fiddle won't sound as good and it will be harder to play. Ignore anyone who tells you otherwise. There's a reason that there are luthiers who charge for this skill.
These archives are great. I agree - take it to a good fiddle shop. A cheap but great investment in the health fo your fiddle. I just got a slight warp mine straightened and the bridge re-set at the local shop for $15US. Also, good advice about the pencil lead on the bridge.
Fiddle bridges
Fiddle bridges
Hi folks, I've searched the archives but didn't find an answer to my question so all you experts out there I need some help.
I need to replace the bridge on my fiddle. (it's warped)
I've been looking online and have seen high, medium and low bridges. What difference does the height make and does anyone have any opinions (of course you do) on fitted bridges?
You guys are always the best source of info anywhere so thanks in advance.
Mary
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by Antikhntr
Re: Fiddle bridges
You're going to have to shape the bridge no matter what - easy enough to do. Without seeing your violin, it's impossible to say which will fit most closely, but the highest should be safest. A lot of times it's easier to simply take it to a maker. If you shape the bridge, be sure and pay attn to the feet, sometimes they're not cut the best.
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by reenactor
Re: Fiddle bridges
Try leaving your bridge in a shallow bowl of water overnight. It should straighten out. I did this to mine two or three years ago and it's still straight.
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by Bill Reeder
Re: Fiddle bridges
Definitely let a pro cut your bridge...he/she will however be able to carve it flatter or not so flat depending on how many drone/double stops you play and how esy you want it to be...
You can try soaking in water, then press between 2 weighted objects, but make sure it is dry before putting it back, otherwise it will warp again.
I would take it to a luthier, tough, and cough up the bucks for a new bridge
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by Sunnybear
Re: Fiddle bridges
oops.."though"
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by Sunnybear
Re: Fiddle bridges
bring it to a pro. Shaping the feet is very easy, all you have to do is tape a peice of very thin sand paper to the belly and then you can rub the bridge up and down until the profile is perfect. you can also get a bridge with self adjusting feet to avoid having to do this. the E string should have a clearence of 3 mm above the end of the fingerboard and the G string should have 5 mm cleareance. Once you have these guides marked, just tranfer the curve of the fingerboard to the new bridge. The problem with changing or messing around with the bridge is not normally the bridge itself but the sound post found inside a fiddle on the trible side of the strings. This is held in by friction only and when you let the strings loose is always likely for this to fall loose and is a nightmare to replace. The location of this post is vital to a fiddle and for this reason you should contact a pro. You don't have to totally let the tension of the strings when messing with the bridge.
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by compaqjohn
Re: Fiddle bridges
I've been using a bridge with self-adjusting feet for the past 8 months and have no complaints, sound quality or otherwise.
I've had 3 or 4 different bridges on this fiddle. With the caveat of not having screwed around with the sound post at all, the only thing that has noticeably changed the fiddle's tone in my opinion has been a change of strings (anybody else given the D'Addario Zyex core strings a try? they're fantastic).
Whether or not such a bridge diminishes tone quality, I have not the experience to comment. I'd have to guess that my own technique contributes more to a reduction in tone quality than my bridge!
I didn't pick it because of the feet. I liked its playability when put on my instrument (pitch between the strings and action) and it didn't make it sound like crap, so that was good enough for me.
Cheers all.
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by _Steph_
Re: Fiddle bridges
As an example of the essential fine detail in bridge fitting - which means you should *always* get the job done by a qualified professional - I offer you this:
the side of a correctly fitting bridge facing the tailpiece should always be exactly vertical to the belly at that point. If you don't know this, and how to achieve it, you're going to end up with a bridge that can't stand up perfectly straight and also have the full area of the feet in intimate contact with the belly.
Now and then, check the vertical alignment of the bridge to make sure the back is vertical to the belly, and CAREFULLY ease it into position if it isn't. The process of tuning the fiddle, or changing strings, (and even playing) will gradually alter the vertical alignment, usually making the bridge lean slightly towards the fingerboard, and destroying the complete contact of the feet area with the belly which is essential for proper transmission of vibrations from the strings to the belly.
A bridge with adjustable feet may be satisfactory with some instruments, but as a general rule I'd say they are useful only as an emergency measure if the proper bridge breaks in an accident, and you're gigging on tour miles away from a repair shop (but then, you'll probably have a second fiddle with you anyway).
If a soundpost falls over when the strings are let down for bridge or tailpiece replacement, then that is a sure sign the soundpost needs replacing, probably because it has shrunk slightly - certainly a job for the luthier. A properly fitted soundpost should remain in place on an unstrung instrument, provided you don't treat the fiddle roughly or squeeze it either side of the f-holes. On the other hand, it shouldn't be so tight that it could distort or damage the back of the fiddle - quite apart from that very expensive possibility, the soundpost wouldn't be transmitting the vibrations as it should. In addition to the correct placement and dimensions of the soundpost, there are interesting little details for the luthier to attend to, such as the correct profiling of the ends of the soundpost and even the direction of the grain of its wood relative to the axis of the fiddle. A luthier in Bristol told me that fitting a soundpost can easily reduce a grown man to tears!
Trevor
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Fiddle bridges
Thanks everyone. I will take it to a pro now that I've read all your replies. I was hoping I wouldn't have to because that means a trip to the "big city" for this country girl which is a very tramatic driving experience for me. Also last time I went to a "pro" to get my bow rehaired he had it for 3 months. Don't want to do without my favorite fiddle that long. Thanks again, I value your opinions and expertise.
Mary
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by Antikhntr
Re: Fiddle bridges
Forgot to mention that I think the bridge is beyond help. It's leaning forward from the middle and looks as if it will snap in two any second.
Mary
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by Antikhntr
Re: Fiddle bridges
A few words from an amateur hopefully not repeating too much what others have said: I bought an old fiddle recently and wanted to lower the bridge because the E string was a bit high for me, but being cautious I didn't want to mess with the old bridge but keep it for reference. So I drew round the old one on some scrap paper without taking it off the fiddle, and took my tracing to the music shop and rummaged through all the bridges they had - the best fit was a nicely made one with adjustable feet - it was a low one (only buy the best quality and even then it's not a very expensive investment). I then carefully removed the old bridge by slackening the strings - you want to treat the fiddle carefully so the soundpost doesn't get knocked loose when the strings are slackened. Then I drew round the old bridge against the new one and used a big blob of bluetac to hold the new bridge over the edge of a workbench while I carefully filed it to shape. Then mark the string positions with a pencil using the old bridge as reference and carefully cut little grooves using a hacksaw blade or a needle file - I believe the string should only fit one third of its diameter into the groove. Then carefully retune - bring each string up to tension a little at time. The flat edge of the bridge should face the tailpiece and be 90 degrees vertical as mentioned by Trevor. The side that faces the fingerboard is gently curved - anyway, it's fine now and I'm very pleased with the fiddle - the tone is great (I fitted Infield Reds at the same time as recommended by someone in an earlier posting - they sound great). I think the soundpost may need adjusting, and that's something I will take to an expert.
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by RichardB
Re: Fiddle bridges
One of the reasons a bridge could warp is tuning your violin...if the strings do not slide easily over the bridge, then as you tune up, the strings pull the bridge toward the scroll..the reverse can also happen where the bridge is leaning towards the tailpiece...every so often, you will need to straighten your bridge..to do this, gently hold the bridge between your thumb and first finger of both hands and tilt it back up so that the BACK side of the bridge (the straight side) is perpendicular to the belly..if you look at the bridge, it is flat on the tailpiece side and curved on the scroll side.
You should put a little lead (pencil) on the bridge where the string troughs are to allow the strings to glide over the bridge without pulling it. Also a bit of lead in the nut will help in tuning also.
# Posted on November 28th 2004 by Sunnybear
Re: Fiddle bridges
I'm echoing everyone saying go to a pro. Bridge cutiing/fitting is more than just setting the height of the strings. Bridges have to be cut to match the type of strings you use (steel strings, being more powerful require a bit less wood coming out of the heart and kidneys of the bridge). A proper bridge cut also acts as a built-in EQ. Thickness is also important, as is the top of the bridge. A lot of bridges warp because they are too thin. Some also warp because of the way the crown is cut. You can make a bridge work without a pro doing it, but it won't work as well. Your fiddle won't sound as good and it will be harder to play. Ignore anyone who tells you otherwise. There's a reason that there are luthiers who charge for this skill.
# Posted on November 29th 2004 by meemtp
Re: Fiddle bridges
These archives are great. I agree - take it to a good fiddle shop. A cheap but great investment in the health fo your fiddle. I just got a slight warp mine straightened and the bridge re-set at the local shop for $15US. Also, good advice about the pencil lead on the bridge.
# Posted on February 15th 2005 by RogueFiddler