What grit sandpaper should I use to finish a fiddle fingerboard? I have a fiddle that needs it's fb polished up. It's fairly rough right now. Or should I cave in and take to the shop? (not sure if this one's worth sinking any cash into it)
The finest available, I should have thought. I understand the old Italian masters didn't have sand/glasspaper but used sharkskin to get the final finish, but I stand to be corrected on this.
Trevor
I'd be careful here. Unless you feel that you can confidently and professionally finish your fingerboard yourself, I would take into a shop. I know its an expensive option but a fiddle is (very often) for life - and besides if you have a go yourself and don't like the results you'll just end up taking it to the shop anyway! It's worth looking for the most reputable repairer in your area to get the best job you can.
Robby, does it need a full dressing? That is, are their divots from finger wear? If so, it takes more than sandpaper. Most luthiers use a small drawknife to get the right curvature and flare.
If it's an ebony fingerboard, you will be sanding all day and have black dust everywhere. Shops are used to this and set up for this. It is best to let a pro do this. There is also the very good chance that the soundpost will fall when you loosen the strings. It's also very important that you get the bridge back in the right spot and at the right angle (with both feet fitting properly). If much is taken off the board, the curve of the bridge wil have to be re-cut as well. ...bottom line, take it to the shop. cheers
Will, no divots or such. It's just unfinished and a bit rough to look at and play. With that and david a's advice, I think I'll forego the trip to the hardware store and take it on in to get it done rightly. I'd like to get that shine and smooth slide action like on my other rigs,
The locals here charge $30 to $50 to fully dress a fingerboard--well worth their expertise, I think. Chicago might be slightly more expensive, but if you shop around, my guess is you'll find someone able to do a decent job in that price range.
Ya Will, I have a local guy here who's reasonable. With three fiddles and several bows, he loves $eeing me walk thru the door. But like jakiS said, if I don't get it right, I'll end up at the shop anyway (+ having to explain why I destroyed a perfectly good fingerslab.
I don't know the conventions for fiddles. On a mandolin, I would sand the fingerboard with a succession of grades, down to 1200-grit, then rub it with fine (0000) steel wool. Finally, I would rub on lemon oil with a cloth and, using the same cloth, burnish the wood to a shine. The grade of paper to start with would depend on how coarse the fingerboard is . Assuming that you do not want to change the shape of it at all, do not use anything coarser than 600-grit.
Finishing the fingerboard
Finishing the fingerboard
What grit sandpaper should I use to finish a fiddle fingerboard? I have a fiddle that needs it's fb polished up. It's fairly rough right now. Or should I cave in and take to the shop? (not sure if this one's worth sinking any cash into it)
# Posted on November 16th 2004 by Robby B.
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
The finest available, I should have thought. I understand the old Italian masters didn't have sand/glasspaper but used sharkskin to get the final finish, but I stand to be corrected on this.
Trevor
# Posted on November 16th 2004 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
I'd be careful here. Unless you feel that you can confidently and professionally finish your fingerboard yourself, I would take into a shop. I know its an expensive option but a fiddle is (very often) for life - and besides if you have a go yourself and don't like the results you'll just end up taking it to the shop anyway! It's worth looking for the most reputable repairer in your area to get the best job you can.
# Posted on November 16th 2004 by jakki S
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
Robby, does it need a full dressing? That is, are their divots from finger wear? If so, it takes more than sandpaper. Most luthiers use a small drawknife to get the right curvature and flare.
# Posted on November 16th 2004 by Will Harmon
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
If it's an ebony fingerboard, you will be sanding all day and have black dust everywhere. Shops are used to this and set up for this. It is best to let a pro do this. There is also the very good chance that the soundpost will fall when you loosen the strings. It's also very important that you get the bridge back in the right spot and at the right angle (with both feet fitting properly). If much is taken off the board, the curve of the bridge wil have to be re-cut as well. ...bottom line, take it to the shop. cheers
# Posted on November 16th 2004 by nfiddle
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
Will, no divots or such. It's just unfinished and a bit rough to look at and play. With that and david a's advice, I think I'll forego the trip to the hardware store and take it on in to get it done rightly. I'd like to get that shine and smooth slide action like on my other rigs,
Thanks for yer advice folks.
# Posted on November 16th 2004 by Robby B.
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
The locals here charge $30 to $50 to fully dress a fingerboard--well worth their expertise, I think. Chicago might be slightly more expensive, but if you shop around, my guess is you'll find someone able to do a decent job in that price range.
# Posted on November 16th 2004 by Will Harmon
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
Ya Will, I have a local guy here who's reasonable. With three fiddles and several bows, he loves $eeing me walk thru the door. But like jakiS said, if I don't get it right, I'll end up at the shop anyway (+ having to explain why I destroyed a perfectly good fingerslab.
Cheers all
# Posted on November 16th 2004 by Robby B.
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
I don't know the conventions for fiddles. On a mandolin, I would sand the fingerboard with a succession of grades, down to 1200-grit, then rub it with fine (0000) steel wool. Finally, I would rub on lemon oil with a cloth and, using the same cloth, burnish the wood to a shine. The grade of paper to start with would depend on how coarse the fingerboard is . Assuming that you do not want to change the shape of it at all, do not use anything coarser than 600-grit.
# Posted on November 17th 2004 by CreadurMawnOrganig
Re: Finishing the fingerboard
hello all,
David A mentioned using pumice. Just wondering if anyone knows where I can get some in Australia?
Cheers,
Eddie C.
# Posted on December 29th 2004 by eddiec