Stew-Mac sells a string spacer guide for marking a guitar's new nut slot. It's a graduated, slotted rule that slides along the fingerboard parallel to the nut, and provides adjusted spacing, keeping the final layout evenly spaced, for the slots to compensate for thicker bass strings and thinner treble strings. Instead of doing it the old fashioned way by marking slots for the two outer E strings, and then dividing the interior space by 5 and marking accordingly (which bunches up the basses), the Stew-Mac rule has several sets of slotted hash marks on its edges that allow you to slide the rule along until you find two marks which match yours. Then you just score the locations for the remaining four strings right through the slotted hash marks. See the link below:
It's a lot simpler than measuring the interior space (perhaps making a mistake), then dividing by 5, and adding .004" to each successive figure. And it saves time for a job that is already detail intensive.
So...
Does anyone have one of these? Or care to share a good tip, regardless of cleverly marked sticks?
I could end up buying one because I need some other things from them anyway, but it seems like such a simple piece of kit that it'd be much more practical to make one at home. I was going to draw it on AutoCAD but I need to know the distances between the first set of marks to get it right.... I've been Googling for a half hour or so to no avail. $21 seems a bit steep, like a lot of their other products which can be had for fractions of the price elsewhere... $25 for feeler gauges, for instance, or $7 at the hardware store, but that's another issue.
How accurately can you transfer a measurement from a ruler to the nut, then cut on your mark with a nut file? Certainly not within 0.004", so your going to land up doing the final adjustment either by eye or with a dial gauge between the strings. So why not do it that way from the start?
I've seen similar handy bits of kit for fiddles. Not really necessary, but saves time and effort, and give immediate accuracy.
I'm sure you could probably make one yourself if you were so inclined, but there might be a bit of messing involved in that.
Is it worth it for $21?
"It's a lot simpler than measuring the interior space (perhaps making a mistake), then dividing by 5, and adding .004" to each successive figure. And it saves time for a job that is already detail intensive."
Well, if you're planning on doing a lot of these, and on a regular basis, then it's a pretty handy tool and it saves a lot of work. But like I said, it seems like something that would be easier to make.
And the 30 minutes or so of otherwise idle time that I've spent this morning aren't worth much, certainly not twenty bucks. I'm usually reading the news before I go to work.
Stewmac has some handy tools, but this isn't one of them. As Screech says, you have to transfer the marks to the nut and cut the slots. A cardboard template would do as well. The human eye is capable of discerning differences of 1/1000th of an inch. Make use of it, and save a bit of cash.
I have to disagree with Gam on the usefulness of this particular tool. I've had one for a couple of years and use it every day. there are fine slots cut through the ruler through which you can insert a fine bladed scriber (I use a Japanese marking-out scriber ground to fit the slots in the tool). this makes an accurate guide mark in the bone of the top nut and serves as a reference point for a fine nut file to start the slot. this is very accurate indeed and has reduced the occasions where a second (or third) new top nut has to be made for an instrument to vanishingly few. after a bit, you get to know which set of slots you need for a given nut width so it's also pretty fast once you get used to it. probably not a tool for someone who only cuts a top nut once a week but well worth having in a busy luthier's shop - I guess that is who it's intended for.
To be honest I can't see how it is going to be that accurate. As far as I can see it is just a ruler with divisions that get progressively wider.
But when you cut a nut, the key measurement is the space between the sides of the strings - those spaces have to be equal across the fingerboard. But string gauges don't increase evenly from treble to bass, so the spacing between string centrelines doesn't increase progressively. Unless this ruler has different scales for different string-gauge ranges as well as nut widths, it's not going to be as accurate as eyeballing or using a dial calliper between the strings.
I also can't see it saving a lot of time, because having marked out from the ruler, then put the strings on, you are still going to want to check the spacing before cutting down into the nut. All that is going to take just as long as putting the strings on by eyeball then doing the same final check.
AS for saving on spoiled nuts - I can't remember ever having ruined one doing it by eyeball. The trick is simply to get the horizontal alignment spot on with minimal depth, before you start cutting down into the nut. That way if your initial mark is slightly out you can very easily work it sideways. The process at this stage is exactly the same whether you make the initial mark with a ruler or by eye.
In short I don't think this is a tool for the busy workshop, I think it is probably intended as an aid for those who are new to the work and don't trust their own judgement.
Since the OP asked for tips, I might as well detail how to do the job by measuring - it doesn't normally involve adding 0.004" to anything:
1. Position the first and 6th strings exactly, giving the nut a couple of strokes with the file - just enough to keep the strings in position but no more.
2. Now fit the other strings in roughly the right positions. (You don't usually need to use the files at this stage, when tensioned the strings will bite the front corner of the nut and stay in position, but if you find they are slipping sideways give the nut one stroke of the file.) Measure the gaps between them and add them all together. Divide that number by 5.
3. Set your dial Calliper to that figure and lock it. Put one of the external jaws of the calliper against the 6th string, and push the 5th string up to touch the other jaw. Repeat for the other strings - they should now all be correctly spaced. (You can get to this stage quite easily by eye in less than a minute if you have the confidence). Once done, the gaps between the strings should all be identical.
4. Mark either side of each string with a half-pencil*, then slide each string sideways and start the slot between the two pencil marks. Put the strings back into the grooves and double check the spacing before cutting down to depth. If necessary you can adjust the spacing to correct any error at this stage by angling the file to cut the side of the groove.
* A half-pencil is an ordinary pencil, sawn and sanded in half down its length, so that it writes exactly in line with its flat surface. Its main use is in marking the nut for depth - by laying it on the frets it will mark the nut at the height of the bottom of the grooves. But it is invaluable for all sorts of other marking out jobs too. Cutting a pencil in half will save you a lot more time than spending $20 on a nut ruler.
I thought I'd buy one if not for any other reason than to save the measurements along with the brand and model as a quick reference.
I have experience with removing (that's the tricky part) and cutting new nuts for a variety of guitars, so I understand the process. I'm also familiar with using a half pencil, but prefer to use a stack of index cards between nut and fret 1 and I stop cutting just as the file is about to touch the tops. I use a .010 file for each slot, so waggling the file is a must to accommodate heavier strings in wider slots. I also prefer to cut the slots at a slight angle to where they are tangent to the string posts... not dead-on leads to the posts, and not dead straight either, but more angled than straight and the finished job is more or less symmetrical. My setup work is always satisfactory, the instruments intonate properly and stay in tune so this works fine.
Clarification, it's the angles of the three slots on either side of the centerline that are more or less symmetrical, not the spacing which is progressively graduated.
At this point I might just revert to using my eyes and a scribe, which has worked in the past, instead of experimenting with a new tool. I have plenty of confidence doing the work, and blanks are so cheap it's nothing to fret about.
I just wonder if anyone has ever calculated how much buying every luthiers' tool you might ever need or use from StewMac would add up to ?
The full pro builder might need them, the amateur might do without.
Unless your using it regularly then I think a template would do. What I do think is worth having (but maybe not worth the money for the same reason, but I was feeling flush and besides they make a neat job) is a set of slotting files. I bought 4 that cover mandolin tenor banjo and guitar ( as you don't want the string fully in the slot rather on the slot). I'm glad I bought them
String spacer guide - technical question
String spacer guide - technical question
Stew-Mac sells a string spacer guide for marking a guitar's new nut slot. It's a graduated, slotted rule that slides along the fingerboard parallel to the nut, and provides adjusted spacing, keeping the final layout evenly spaced, for the slots to compensate for thicker bass strings and thinner treble strings. Instead of doing it the old fashioned way by marking slots for the two outer E strings, and then dividing the interior space by 5 and marking accordingly (which bunches up the basses), the Stew-Mac rule has several sets of slotted hash marks on its edges that allow you to slide the rule along until you find two marks which match yours. Then you just score the locations for the remaining four strings right through the slotted hash marks. See the link below:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Measuring_tools/1/String_Spacing_Rule.html
It's a lot simpler than measuring the interior space (perhaps making a mistake), then dividing by 5, and adding .004" to each successive figure. And it saves time for a job that is already detail intensive.
So...
Does anyone have one of these? Or care to share a good tip, regardless of cleverly marked sticks?
I could end up buying one because I need some other things from them anyway, but it seems like such a simple piece of kit that it'd be much more practical to make one at home. I was going to draw it on AutoCAD but I need to know the distances between the first set of marks to get it right.... I've been Googling for a half hour or so to no avail. $21 seems a bit steep, like a lot of their other products which can be had for fractions of the price elsewhere... $25 for feeler gauges, for instance, or $7 at the hardware store, but that's another issue.
Thanks in advance.
# Posted on March 19th 2010 by gravelwalks
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
How accurately can you transfer a measurement from a ruler to the nut, then cut on your mark with a nut file? Certainly not within 0.004", so your going to land up doing the final adjustment either by eye or with a dial gauge between the strings. So why not do it that way from the start?
# Posted on March 19th 2010 by skreech
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
I've seen similar handy bits of kit for fiddles. Not really necessary, but saves time and effort, and give immediate accuracy.
I'm sure you could probably make one yourself if you were so inclined, but there might be a bit of messing involved in that.
Is it worth it for $21?
"It's a lot simpler than measuring the interior space (perhaps making a mistake), then dividing by 5, and adding .004" to each successive figure. And it saves time for a job that is already detail intensive."
I think you've answered your own question.
# Posted on March 19th 2010 by tradshark
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
How much is your already spent time worth?
# Posted on March 19th 2010 by Bob himself
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
Well, if you're planning on doing a lot of these, and on a regular basis, then it's a pretty handy tool and it saves a lot of work. But like I said, it seems like something that would be easier to make.
And the 30 minutes or so of otherwise idle time that I've spent this morning aren't worth much, certainly not twenty bucks. I'm usually reading the news before I go to work.
# Posted on March 19th 2010 by gravelwalks
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
Stewmac has some handy tools, but this isn't one of them. As Screech says, you have to transfer the marks to the nut and cut the slots. A cardboard template would do as well. The human eye is capable of discerning differences of 1/1000th of an inch. Make use of it, and save a bit of cash.
# Posted on March 20th 2010 by gam
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
I have to disagree with Gam on the usefulness of this particular tool. I've had one for a couple of years and use it every day. there are fine slots cut through the ruler through which you can insert a fine bladed scriber (I use a Japanese marking-out scriber ground to fit the slots in the tool). this makes an accurate guide mark in the bone of the top nut and serves as a reference point for a fine nut file to start the slot. this is very accurate indeed and has reduced the occasions where a second (or third) new top nut has to be made for an instrument to vanishingly few. after a bit, you get to know which set of slots you need for a given nut width so it's also pretty fast once you get used to it. probably not a tool for someone who only cuts a top nut once a week but well worth having in a busy luthier's shop - I guess that is who it's intended for.
# Posted on March 20th 2010 by teetotaller
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
To be honest I can't see how it is going to be that accurate. As far as I can see it is just a ruler with divisions that get progressively wider.
But when you cut a nut, the key measurement is the space between the sides of the strings - those spaces have to be equal across the fingerboard. But string gauges don't increase evenly from treble to bass, so the spacing between string centrelines doesn't increase progressively. Unless this ruler has different scales for different string-gauge ranges as well as nut widths, it's not going to be as accurate as eyeballing or using a dial calliper between the strings.
I also can't see it saving a lot of time, because having marked out from the ruler, then put the strings on, you are still going to want to check the spacing before cutting down into the nut. All that is going to take just as long as putting the strings on by eyeball then doing the same final check.
AS for saving on spoiled nuts - I can't remember ever having ruined one doing it by eyeball. The trick is simply to get the horizontal alignment spot on with minimal depth, before you start cutting down into the nut. That way if your initial mark is slightly out you can very easily work it sideways. The process at this stage is exactly the same whether you make the initial mark with a ruler or by eye.
In short I don't think this is a tool for the busy workshop, I think it is probably intended as an aid for those who are new to the work and don't trust their own judgement.
# Posted on March 20th 2010 by skreech
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
Since the OP asked for tips, I might as well detail how to do the job by measuring - it doesn't normally involve adding 0.004" to anything:
1. Position the first and 6th strings exactly, giving the nut a couple of strokes with the file - just enough to keep the strings in position but no more.
2. Now fit the other strings in roughly the right positions. (You don't usually need to use the files at this stage, when tensioned the strings will bite the front corner of the nut and stay in position, but if you find they are slipping sideways give the nut one stroke of the file.) Measure the gaps between them and add them all together. Divide that number by 5.
3. Set your dial Calliper to that figure and lock it. Put one of the external jaws of the calliper against the 6th string, and push the 5th string up to touch the other jaw. Repeat for the other strings - they should now all be correctly spaced. (You can get to this stage quite easily by eye in less than a minute if you have the confidence). Once done, the gaps between the strings should all be identical.
4. Mark either side of each string with a half-pencil*, then slide each string sideways and start the slot between the two pencil marks. Put the strings back into the grooves and double check the spacing before cutting down to depth. If necessary you can adjust the spacing to correct any error at this stage by angling the file to cut the side of the groove.
* A half-pencil is an ordinary pencil, sawn and sanded in half down its length, so that it writes exactly in line with its flat surface. Its main use is in marking the nut for depth - by laying it on the frets it will mark the nut at the height of the bottom of the grooves. But it is invaluable for all sorts of other marking out jobs too. Cutting a pencil in half will save you a lot more time than spending $20 on a nut ruler.
# Posted on March 20th 2010 by skreech
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
I thought I'd buy one if not for any other reason than to save the measurements along with the brand and model as a quick reference.
I have experience with removing (that's the tricky part) and cutting new nuts for a variety of guitars, so I understand the process. I'm also familiar with using a half pencil, but prefer to use a stack of index cards between nut and fret 1 and I stop cutting just as the file is about to touch the tops. I use a .010 file for each slot, so waggling the file is a must to accommodate heavier strings in wider slots. I also prefer to cut the slots at a slight angle to where they are tangent to the string posts... not dead-on leads to the posts, and not dead straight either, but more angled than straight and the finished job is more or less symmetrical. My setup work is always satisfactory, the instruments intonate properly and stay in tune so this works fine.
# Posted on March 20th 2010 by gravelwalks
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
Clarification, it's the angles of the three slots on either side of the centerline that are more or less symmetrical, not the spacing which is progressively graduated.
At this point I might just revert to using my eyes and a scribe, which has worked in the past, instead of experimenting with a new tool. I have plenty of confidence doing the work, and blanks are so cheap it's nothing to fret about.
# Posted on March 20th 2010 by gravelwalks
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
I just wonder if anyone has ever calculated how much buying every luthiers' tool you might ever need or use from StewMac would add up to ?
The full pro builder might need them, the amateur might do without.
# Posted on March 20th 2010 by Guernsey Pete
Re: String spacer guide - technical question
Unless your using it regularly then I think a template would do. What I do think is worth having (but maybe not worth the money for the same reason, but I was feeling flush and besides they make a neat job) is a set of slotting files. I bought 4 that cover mandolin tenor banjo and guitar ( as you don't want the string fully in the slot rather on the slot). I'm glad I bought them
# Posted on March 21st 2010 by Solidmahog