I inherited a Gibson Model A, serial number 81032. I don't think it was ever used very much. Can anybody tell me something about it....e.g. when it was made, etc.
It's a really common one made in the late 1980s. There's an irriversable problem with the neck unfortunatly. It''s a pretty thing, but not worth much. I'll take it off your hands for $20 if you like.
IIlig may be correct in everything he/she says. Nonetheless, a little concrete proof may help in your quest. To this end, I would recommend:
1. Google 'Gibson Mandolins' and hit their home website. A short search should give you all the information you need about age, etc.
2. If you accept llig's offer, you really do believe in the tooth fairy! Trust him, he's really doing you a favour. Not!!
3. Put it on Ebay with a reserve of, say, $200 or $400 (whatever - you choose) and see how many bids you get. At least you'll test the market - rather than hand it over to an opportunistic carpetbagger.
Sorry, I should have added to IIlig's comment 'There's an irriversable problem with the neck'. Obviously he doesn't have a similar problem given that his own is made of pure brass. Heh!
I would post this question to the message board at The Mandolin Cafe .com There's a wealth of knowledge over there including people who can decipher serial numbers. A photo would help a lot. Usually a mandolin designated simply as an "A" is an oval hole that has been out of production for generations and very desirable. May be worth between $900-1800 or so US dollars. You can probably sell it quickly on that site as well.
Try posting in the "Looking for information about mandolins" section.
If it dates from the late 70's it may have a straight slotted neck joint. It was an innovative form in it's time but received a great deal of criticism. It was thought that over time the slot would loosen. They were still making them in Kalamazoo when I was in graduate school there. I wasn't playing madnolin at the time, but I still have the ES335 I bought directly from the factory. At any rate, there are alot of those still around and I haven't heard too much about problems with the joint. It may be a good idea to have a luthier take a look at it. They can also usually give you an appraisal.
Oh, don't listen to all those people talking sense there. Listen to Michael, it's completely unplayable and wouldn't have an absolutely beautiful tone like all of the other Model A Gibsons from that era, and you don't want the old thing. But I'm nicer than Michael - I'll only charge you $10 to take it off your hands...
All joking aside, you've just come across a brilliant instrument, and one which will never be recreated. Ignore the nonsense about neck problems - it's not from the late 70s at all, it's early 1920s. If you think it hasn't been played much in recent years, and you're not a mandolin player yourself, find a reputable luthier in your area (probably someone here can help you find someone) and have it looked over for any damage that might have occured from improper storage - for example, if it was stored in an attic or a basement, and exposed to wide swings of temperature and humidity, the wood may have been expanding and contracting on a yearly cycle, which can lead to "checking" (a pattern of fine cracks in the finish) or, in a worst case, cracking of the wood itself. Or the tuning machines may not be in the best of shape. There are other things that can go wrong, but they're hardy little beasts, it's not likely to suffer irreparable damage.
Keep in mind that in good condition, that mandolin would go for $1000 at a minimum, and you'd be selling it to people both as a musical instrument and as a historical artifact. Some of your potential buyers will be buying for "vintage value", which means keep anything that's with the instrument now. If there's a case, keep the case, even it it's falling apart. If there's a pick in the case, keep it in the case - it might be the tortoiseshell that the original owner stuck in there. Certainly if you decide to have any work done on it, don't part with any parts, the bridge or the tailpiece, or the tuners or the scratchplate for example. Just keep them with the instrument, in case your buyer wants to have them for any reason.
But if you want my advice, get the thing into playable shape and learn some tunes...
If your serial number is correct, it was made ain 1925 which is a banner year for Gibson mandolins. Does the headstock look like the one that was shown on the mandolin archive? Snakehead mandolins are sought after because they were made during the time Lloyd Loar was there and most of those mandolins were very good instruments.
Gibson A mandolins come in several grades. It should have a designator after the "A" in the oval hole but since most of them were written in pencil, that is often lost. If it has binding on both the front and the back, it is a higher end model. If it has a paddle shaped or square head, it is not as valuable, but they are all worth some money and the 1923-1925/6 instruments are highly sought after even if they have problems.
Depending on where you live (States vs Europe) there are good luthiers who can restore the instrument if needed. a picture would be nice.
Mike's information is usually really good, but he gave you the old address for the message board at the 'Cafe. It's http//www.mandolincafe.com/forum. They've just changed it...I still type in the old address all the time!
Firstly I have several of these and given that number it was made in either 1924 or 1925 (it's hard to determine as they used the same sequential numbers for ALL of thier instruments in that era - A Style mandolins, F Style Mandolins, H Style Mandolas, K Style Mando Cellos, H Style Guitars and any number of Banjo and other Instrument types - so close numbered instruments will be very different).
I expect it has a longish head (aka Snakehead design)
like this : http://www.mandolinarchive.com/perl/show_mando.pl?2422
Basically if it has the longer Snakehead pattern headstock and a Truss Rod cover you can believe it is a 1924/1925 Model.
It will NOT be just an "A" Model - straight A models are very rare/old - the A designation would have been from the early 1900's.
It will be an A1, A2, A3 or A4 model - possibly an A5 but I doubt it.
The A jr (A Junior) will have no binding front or back , sheraton brown colour, and have a sea shell type string cover - no "The Gibson" logo on peghead.
The A1 will have no binding front or back - no "The Gibson" logo on peghead.
The A2 will have binding on the front only - WILL have "The Gibson" logo on the peghead.
The A3 will have binding on the front and back - they are usually white or black bodied - WILL have "The Gibson" logo on peghead.
The A4 will usually be a sunburst colour(not always), binding on front and back, WILL have "The Gibson" logo on peghead with usually a Fleur de Lys logo as well.
There are other differences but too much to go into here!
If you post/send a photo, with detail of the head, soundhole, back and the tailpiece and also the case if you have it I could positively identify it.
Price is subject to actual model and condition but it will be in the region of £1,000+ in UK.
Model A
Model A
I inherited a Gibson Model A, serial number 81032. I don't think it was ever used very much. Can anybody tell me something about it....e.g. when it was made, etc.
Thanks. I'd appreciate the help.
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by Lucy Loux
Re: Model A
It's a really common one made in the late 1980s. There's an irriversable problem with the neck unfortunatly. It''s a pretty thing, but not worth much. I'll take it off your hands for $20 if you like.
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by llig leahcim
Re: Model A
Beware strangers bearing offers to "take it off you hands for $20"...
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by ceolachan
Now if it were a lefty...
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by ceolachan
Re: Model A
Hi Lucy
IIlig may be correct in everything he/she says. Nonetheless, a little concrete proof may help in your quest. To this end, I would recommend:
1. Google 'Gibson Mandolins' and hit their home website. A short search should give you all the information you need about age, etc.
2. If you accept llig's offer, you really do believe in the tooth fairy! Trust him, he's really doing you a favour. Not!!
3. Put it on Ebay with a reserve of, say, $200 or $400 (whatever - you choose) and see how many bids you get. At least you'll test the market - rather than hand it over to an opportunistic carpetbagger.
Best of luck
Gerry
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by Gerry_McCartney
Re: Model A
Sorry, I should have added to IIlig's comment 'There's an irriversable problem with the neck'. Obviously he doesn't have a similar problem given that his own is made of pure brass. Heh!
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by Gerry_McCartney
Re: Model A
I would post this question to the message board at The Mandolin Cafe .com There's a wealth of knowledge over there including people who can decipher serial numbers. A photo would help a lot. Usually a mandolin designated simply as an "A" is an oval hole that has been out of production for generations and very desirable. May be worth between $900-1800 or so US dollars. You can probably sell it quickly on that site as well.
Try posting in the "Looking for information about mandolins" section.
Good luck.
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by Steve L
Re: Model A
Here are some pictures of No 81100, only 68 away!
http://www.mandolinarchive.com/perl/show_mando.pl?2934
More information about others with similar serial numbers at
http://www.mandolinarchive.com/perl/list_mandolins.pl?a_model:33
but as already mentioned, lots of experts and some really helpful folk over at mandolincafe.com
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by TomB-R
Re: Model A
You don't say where you are Lucy, but several A's of around that era shown for sale here
http://www.theacousticmusicco.co.uk/erol.html#2420X0
Trevor who runs that shop has a good reputation and his prices are probably a fair indication (of dealer values, obviously.)
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by TomB-R
Re: Model A
If it dates from the late 70's it may have a straight slotted neck joint. It was an innovative form in it's time but received a great deal of criticism. It was thought that over time the slot would loosen. They were still making them in Kalamazoo when I was in graduate school there. I wasn't playing madnolin at the time, but I still have the ES335 I bought directly from the factory. At any rate, there are alot of those still around and I haven't heard too much about problems with the joint. It may be a good idea to have a luthier take a look at it. They can also usually give you an appraisal.
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by dlkes
Re: Model A
What? you mean it actually does have a problem with the neck? ha ha, that's priceless
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by llig leahcim
Re: Model A
Oh, don't listen to all those people talking sense there. Listen to Michael, it's completely unplayable and wouldn't have an absolutely beautiful tone like all of the other Model A Gibsons from that era, and you don't want the old thing. But I'm nicer than Michael - I'll only charge you $10 to take it off your hands...
All joking aside, you've just come across a brilliant instrument, and one which will never be recreated. Ignore the nonsense about neck problems - it's not from the late 70s at all, it's early 1920s. If you think it hasn't been played much in recent years, and you're not a mandolin player yourself, find a reputable luthier in your area (probably someone here can help you find someone) and have it looked over for any damage that might have occured from improper storage - for example, if it was stored in an attic or a basement, and exposed to wide swings of temperature and humidity, the wood may have been expanding and contracting on a yearly cycle, which can lead to "checking" (a pattern of fine cracks in the finish) or, in a worst case, cracking of the wood itself. Or the tuning machines may not be in the best of shape. There are other things that can go wrong, but they're hardy little beasts, it's not likely to suffer irreparable damage.
Keep in mind that in good condition, that mandolin would go for $1000 at a minimum, and you'd be selling it to people both as a musical instrument and as a historical artifact. Some of your potential buyers will be buying for "vintage value", which means keep anything that's with the instrument now. If there's a case, keep the case, even it it's falling apart. If there's a pick in the case, keep it in the case - it might be the tortoiseshell that the original owner stuck in there. Certainly if you decide to have any work done on it, don't part with any parts, the bridge or the tailpiece, or the tuners or the scratchplate for example. Just keep them with the instrument, in case your buyer wants to have them for any reason.
But if you want my advice, get the thing into playable shape and learn some tunes...
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by Jon Kiparsky
Re: Model A
I should clarify - the straight slotted joint was contraversial at the time. As far as I know there aren't any of the problems that were predicted.
If it dates from the 1920's it should have a dovetail joint.
# Posted on November 7th 2008 by dlkes
Re: Model A
Lucy,
If your serial number is correct, it was made ain 1925 which is a banner year for Gibson mandolins. Does the headstock look like the one that was shown on the mandolin archive? Snakehead mandolins are sought after because they were made during the time Lloyd Loar was there and most of those mandolins were very good instruments.
Gibson A mandolins come in several grades. It should have a designator after the "A" in the oval hole but since most of them were written in pencil, that is often lost. If it has binding on both the front and the back, it is a higher end model. If it has a paddle shaped or square head, it is not as valuable, but they are all worth some money and the 1923-1925/6 instruments are highly sought after even if they have problems.
Depending on where you live (States vs Europe) there are good luthiers who can restore the instrument if needed. a picture would be nice.
go to http://www.mandolincafe.net and ask about your instrument.
Mike Keyes
http://www.mikekeyes.com
# Posted on November 8th 2008 by mikeyes
Re: Model A
Mike's information is usually really good, but he gave you the old address for the message board at the 'Cafe. It's http//www.mandolincafe.com/forum. They've just changed it...I still type in the old address all the time!
# Posted on November 9th 2008 by Steve L
Re: Model A
Firstly I have several of these and given that number it was made in either 1924 or 1925 (it's hard to determine as they used the same sequential numbers for ALL of thier instruments in that era - A Style mandolins, F Style Mandolins, H Style Mandolas, K Style Mando Cellos, H Style Guitars and any number of Banjo and other Instrument types - so close numbered instruments will be very different).
I expect it has a longish head (aka Snakehead design)
like this : http://www.mandolinarchive.com/perl/show_mando.pl?2422
or does it have one like this : http://www.mandolinarchive.com/perl/show_mando.pl?3447
Does it have a truss rod cover on the head?
Basically if it has the longer Snakehead pattern headstock and a Truss Rod cover you can believe it is a 1924/1925 Model.
It will NOT be just an "A" Model - straight A models are very rare/old - the A designation would have been from the early 1900's.
It will be an A1, A2, A3 or A4 model - possibly an A5 but I doubt it.
The A jr (A Junior) will have no binding front or back , sheraton brown colour, and have a sea shell type string cover - no "The Gibson" logo on peghead.
The A1 will have no binding front or back - no "The Gibson" logo on peghead.
The A2 will have binding on the front only - WILL have "The Gibson" logo on the peghead.
The A3 will have binding on the front and back - they are usually white or black bodied - WILL have "The Gibson" logo on peghead.
The A4 will usually be a sunburst colour(not always), binding on front and back, WILL have "The Gibson" logo on peghead with usually a Fleur de Lys logo as well.
There are other differences but too much to go into here!
If you post/send a photo, with detail of the head, soundhole, back and the tailpiece and also the case if you have it I could positively identify it.
Price is subject to actual model and condition but it will be in the region of £1,000+ in UK.
# Posted on November 11th 2008 by UKCITTERN
Re: Model A
Does anyone know what type of wood a 1917 Pumpkin Top A style Gibson is made out of?
# Posted on April 19th 2009 by CelticHarpist