Hi everybody. I hope everyone had a great holiday. I'm kinda new here, but I've read the past discussions and everyone is so helpful, so I thought you could give me some advice.
I have a cocuswood D keyless flute that I got about half a year ago, and just today I noticed a small crack on the head joint right above where the middle and head joint connect. I looked and can't see any evidence of a crack inside and can't hear any difference when i play, so it probably can't be that bad, but still. Should I be worried? And can I fix it?
Tim, get your flute to its maker or another reputable wooden flute maker or repairer. Or try David Migoya at www.fyferrestorations.com (well, if that's not the exact link, it's close).
A small crack can be repaired. Such cracks are usually due to the outside of the flute drying out more quickly than the inside (or the inside gaining moisture more quickly than the outside). You may need to do more to humidify your flute, more regular overall oiling, and swabbing excess moisture out of the inside of the bore.
I'm sure the more experienced flute players can help you out here, but you can also go to the wooden flute site (www.woodenflute.com). Most of the name makers also give care instructions on their websites.
The important thing is to take care of it now, before the crack worsens.
Cracks will get bigger, eventually it will go right down to the bore. If you have a wooden flute maker by you I would suggest bringing it to them to have it repaired. It's better to nip it in the bud before it becomes too big of a problem. One folk cure I heard is to super-glue the crack & use pipe-clamps as vices while it dries. I wouldn't try this without more research though, if the clamps are too tight you could crack it up more, if the clamps are too loose you botch up the crack & make it more expensive to fix. Theres a boatload of flutemakers & repairers on the wooden flute list. If you go to www.woodenflute.com & sign up the mailing list you'll have access to their brains & experience. Good luck
The crack will get worse before it gets better. Definitely get it repaired ASAP. Unfortunately, David Migoya is not accepting any restoration or repair work at this time. If he were, I would recommend him. He did a wonderful job on my 1870 flute. Check around. You'll find someone.
Thanks for your quick response, everyone. I emailed several makers in Ohio that are pretty close, hopefully one of em can repair it.
Will, I swab it out after each playing session, and it oil every month. Is there anything else I can do for my poor flute?
Tim
Tim, if your ambient humidity drops below 50 or 60%, you're better off keeping the flute in its own container--a small plastic storage box is ideal--with a humidifier. Some people use store-bought instrument humidifiers, but others just include a damp piece of towel, not touching the flute itself, but adding moisture to the box. I'd recommend a plastic spice jar, the kind with the shaker cap with holes in it (I used a clove jar and it adds a nice aroma to the case . Put a piece of sponge in that, keep it damp, and you're flute will be happier. Also keep a hygrometer in there to monitor humidity levels. I buy my hygrometers at pet shops--they're cheaper and more accurate than what I've found at music stores. Glauber also swears by a digital hygrometer available at Radio Shack.
The point is, you need to keep the humidity in the flute's storage box up around 60-65% (some say 70%), and avoid any major fluctuations. This assumes of course that you're also keeping the flute itself played in--that is, humidified on the inside by playing it regularly--3-4 times a week at least. When you swab it out, the idea is to leave a little moisture in there, so don't overdo it. Also, check with your maker to ensure you're using an appropriate oil for your flute.
You may not need much extra humidity during spring and summer, but winter in North America tends to dry things out, so cracks are more likely to occur now.
I'm guessing David Copely is one of the local makers you've contacted. He'll give you good advice.
Remember that cracks in the head joint aren't uncommon, especially if the head joint is metal lined, which many of them are. With a little TLC and a watchful eye, you should be able to prevent things from getting worse, and a small crack or two won't affect the instrument's tone or playability. On the other hand, if you're willing to spend the time to figure out exactly what your flute needs in its current habitat, you won't have to worry about cracks.
Let us know what kind of advice you get from the locals. Humidity levels in Montana swing all over the place, so I'm always interested in hearing what people do in their own areas...I always learn something useful.
Dave Copley was too busy, and so couldn't repair it, but a fellow in Massachusetts named Paul Mulvaney has offered to replace the cracked barrel joint with a new one made out of Delrin! What a beautiful idea! A barrel made out of plastic must be impervious to cracks, right?
Also, the crack has gotten a lot smaller. It rained recently, which must've helped.
Will, I like the idea of putting a small moist towel in my case. I'll try it out.
I play a Seery Delrin flute and I enjoy it very much--surprisingly good tone that's almost indistinguishable from wood. For $325, you can't buy a better sounding, playable flute. Yes, you can put a Delrin head joint on your wooden flute.
But I can think of several reasons you might NOT want to do that:
(1) It won't solve the problem of your cracked wooden headjoint. To maintain the value of the flute (assuming it's worth something, afterall), get the crack repaired and take care of it. Minor cracks should not cost much to fix, and the flute needs the proper TLC whether you're playing it or not.
(2) The Delrin will look kinda odd on the end of your flute.
(3) The Delrin will likely be heavier than the original head joint, changing the balance of your flute.
(4) You may end up unhappy with the tone from the Delrin. I swear that most people would never know that my flute isn't wood, and it can sound as "reedy" as the better wooden flutes, but there's no doubt still a difference.
I wonder what Mulvaney would charge for a Delrin headjoint. You may end up in the $325 to $400 range of a new, entire Delrin flute from Seery or Michael Cronnolly.
One of the main reasons I started out with a Delrin flute was the lack of necessary maintenance. It's totally impervious to changes in humidity and temperature, and if it gets dirty I just drop it in a sinkful of soapy water and scrub it. When I move on to a wooden flute, I'll keep my Seery for rowdy pubs, gigs in the Gobi, and backpacking.
I don't know Mulvaney at all, and have nothing against him, but surely there's someone local (or at least closer) who can help you out. School bands have lots of woodwinds and need repair work on a regular basis--perhaps they can steer you to a reputable repair person. At the very least, contact Terry McGee or Casey Burns through their web sites, or perhaps even send Migoya an email and get advice on how to fix the crack. Small cracks can often be easily repaired--it's just a matter of using the proper glue, preparation, and follow-up.
I wouldn't want to give bad advice, so follow Will's about contacting Terry McGee or Casey Burns for sure but I had a similar crack in the headjoint of my flute. I took it to my local music store, just to see what they thought. They specialize in band instrument repairs and did a very nice job on it. That was several years ago now and the repair is holding no problem. Will's advice on humidity has actually made the flute playable again so all is well. (I actually dropped it and had to do a quick repair before my partner found out I'd broken the lovely birthday present... yikes.)
Timmy--sorry to interrupt this discussion, but please look under the comments part of the session that you recently posted (Plough and the Stars); I had a question. Thanks.
O.K. you guys can go back to talking about flute stuff....
Send your flute to Paul and have the headjoint replaced with Delrin?!?!?! Okay, I'm friends with Paul and I think that's the craziest idea ever. First, cocus is some of the nicest wood ever. Second, Paul is not a flute maker. He may have dabbled in it, but that's not "what he does". Have the headjoint repaired by a professional flute maker.
For repairs try the following:
Patrick Olwell
Skip Healy
Bryan Byrne
The Von Heune Workshop
They can all be found on the woodenflute.com page.
By the way, who made this flute? Have you thought of sending it back to the maker?
Erm.. I'm confused.
The headjoint and barrel joint are two completly different things, right? Paul offered to replace the **Barrel Joint**, not the headjoint.
I got my flute from the notorius mail-order company, Lark in the Morning. I asked them who made my flute, and they told me they get em from a privately contracted Middle-Eastern manufacturing company. My guess Is Pakistan, since they make some bagpipes there. I doubt the manufacturer accepts repair jobs.
Will, Paul estimated it would be $100, including shipment to and from and material cost. It seems extremely reasonable to me.
The crack has actually sealed up on its own. It's hardly noticeable.
I'll still get it repaired, but I'm not as worried about as I was before.
I've talked to Paul for a while, and he seems very knowledgable. Also, I'm hesitant to find a professional who will fix it, because I think they would charge more than I can afford. Money doesn't come easily when you're a 15 yr. old : ).
Thanks for all your brilliant advice,
Tim
Oops! My mistake--but the crack is in the head joint, no? So why replace the *barrel* with a Delrin one? For the new Delrin to work, the tenon will have to fit snugly, and the cocus in the head joint will still crack around that, if that's where the problem lies.
Anyway, if the crack is small and not deep, take it to your local band instrument repair place (usually affiliated with a music shop). I'll bet you can find someone to fix it for less than $30. Barring that, if the flute is not overly valuable (by which I mean it's not a major name maker flute), just fill the crack yourself with a good resin epoxy, available at any hardware store for $5-$6. Seems to me either Casey Burns or Terry McGee even included instructions on how to do this on their web sites.
P.S. Tim, my four reasons for not adding a Delrin section to your wooden flute still stand--adding a Delrin barrel won't fix your cracked headjoint, will affect the flute's balance and appearance, and probably tone.
I'm terribly sorry....
The barrel joint is the thing that's cracked
The head joint is fine.
And I've decided that I'll fill it with a tiny bit of epoxy, since the crack is so small now that you would actually need a magnifying lens to see it. Kind of funny, huh? You guys spent all this time giving me great advice and now I can't use it.
Thanks for all your help,
Tim
Flute problem
Flute problem
Hi everybody. I hope everyone had a great holiday. I'm kinda new here, but I've read the past discussions and everyone is so helpful, so I thought you could give me some advice.
I have a cocuswood D keyless flute that I got about half a year ago, and just today I noticed a small crack on the head joint right above where the middle and head joint connect. I looked and can't see any evidence of a crack inside and can't hear any difference when i play, so it probably can't be that bad, but still. Should I be worried? And can I fix it?
Tim
# Posted on December 26th 2002 by tadgh
Re: Flute problem
Tim, get your flute to its maker or another reputable wooden flute maker or repairer. Or try David Migoya at www.fyferrestorations.com (well, if that's not the exact link, it's close).
A small crack can be repaired. Such cracks are usually due to the outside of the flute drying out more quickly than the inside (or the inside gaining moisture more quickly than the outside). You may need to do more to humidify your flute, more regular overall oiling, and swabbing excess moisture out of the inside of the bore.
I'm sure the more experienced flute players can help you out here, but you can also go to the wooden flute site (www.woodenflute.com). Most of the name makers also give care instructions on their websites.
The important thing is to take care of it now, before the crack worsens.
Good luck.
# Posted on December 26th 2002 by Will Harmon
Re: Flute problem
Cracks will get bigger, eventually it will go right down to the bore. If you have a wooden flute maker by you I would suggest bringing it to them to have it repaired. It's better to nip it in the bud before it becomes too big of a problem. One folk cure I heard is to super-glue the crack & use pipe-clamps as vices while it dries. I wouldn't try this without more research though, if the clamps are too tight you could crack it up more, if the clamps are too loose you botch up the crack & make it more expensive to fix. Theres a boatload of flutemakers & repairers on the wooden flute list. If you go to www.woodenflute.com & sign up the mailing list you'll have access to their brains & experience. Good luck
# Posted on December 26th 2002 by B Rad
Re: Flute problem
The crack will get worse before it gets better. Definitely get it repaired ASAP. Unfortunately, David Migoya is not accepting any restoration or repair work at this time. If he were, I would recommend him. He did a wonderful job on my 1870 flute. Check around. You'll find someone.
# Posted on December 27th 2002 by Odin
Re: Flute problem
Thanks for your quick response, everyone. I emailed several makers in Ohio that are pretty close, hopefully one of em can repair it.
Will, I swab it out after each playing session, and it oil every month. Is there anything else I can do for my poor flute?
Tim
# Posted on December 27th 2002 by tadgh
Re: Flute problem
Tim, if your ambient humidity drops below 50 or 60%, you're better off keeping the flute in its own container--a small plastic storage box is ideal--with a humidifier. Some people use store-bought instrument humidifiers, but others just include a damp piece of towel, not touching the flute itself, but adding moisture to the box. I'd recommend a plastic spice jar, the kind with the shaker cap with holes in it (I used a clove jar and it adds a nice aroma to the case
. Put a piece of sponge in that, keep it damp, and you're flute will be happier. Also keep a hygrometer in there to monitor humidity levels. I buy my hygrometers at pet shops--they're cheaper and more accurate than what I've found at music stores. Glauber also swears by a digital hygrometer available at Radio Shack.
The point is, you need to keep the humidity in the flute's storage box up around 60-65% (some say 70%), and avoid any major fluctuations. This assumes of course that you're also keeping the flute itself played in--that is, humidified on the inside by playing it regularly--3-4 times a week at least. When you swab it out, the idea is to leave a little moisture in there, so don't overdo it. Also, check with your maker to ensure you're using an appropriate oil for your flute.
You may not need much extra humidity during spring and summer, but winter in North America tends to dry things out, so cracks are more likely to occur now.
I'm guessing David Copely is one of the local makers you've contacted. He'll give you good advice.
Remember that cracks in the head joint aren't uncommon, especially if the head joint is metal lined, which many of them are. With a little TLC and a watchful eye, you should be able to prevent things from getting worse, and a small crack or two won't affect the instrument's tone or playability. On the other hand, if you're willing to spend the time to figure out exactly what your flute needs in its current habitat, you won't have to worry about cracks.
Let us know what kind of advice you get from the locals. Humidity levels in Montana swing all over the place, so I'm always interested in hearing what people do in their own areas...I always learn something useful.
# Posted on December 27th 2002 by Will Harmon
Re: Flute problem
Dave Copley was too busy, and so couldn't repair it, but a fellow in Massachusetts named Paul Mulvaney has offered to replace the cracked barrel joint with a new one made out of Delrin! What a beautiful idea! A barrel made out of plastic must be impervious to cracks, right?
Also, the crack has gotten a lot smaller. It rained recently, which must've helped.
Will, I like the idea of putting a small moist towel in my case. I'll try it out.
Tim
# Posted on December 30th 2002 by tadgh
Re: Flute problem
I play a Seery Delrin flute and I enjoy it very much--surprisingly good tone that's almost indistinguishable from wood. For $325, you can't buy a better sounding, playable flute. Yes, you can put a Delrin head joint on your wooden flute.
But I can think of several reasons you might NOT want to do that:
(1) It won't solve the problem of your cracked wooden headjoint. To maintain the value of the flute (assuming it's worth something, afterall), get the crack repaired and take care of it. Minor cracks should not cost much to fix, and the flute needs the proper TLC whether you're playing it or not.
(2) The Delrin will look kinda odd on the end of your flute.
(3) The Delrin will likely be heavier than the original head joint, changing the balance of your flute.
(4) You may end up unhappy with the tone from the Delrin. I swear that most people would never know that my flute isn't wood, and it can sound as "reedy" as the better wooden flutes, but there's no doubt still a difference.
I wonder what Mulvaney would charge for a Delrin headjoint. You may end up in the $325 to $400 range of a new, entire Delrin flute from Seery or Michael Cronnolly.
One of the main reasons I started out with a Delrin flute was the lack of necessary maintenance. It's totally impervious to changes in humidity and temperature, and if it gets dirty I just drop it in a sinkful of soapy water and scrub it. When I move on to a wooden flute, I'll keep my Seery for rowdy pubs, gigs in the Gobi, and backpacking.
Tim, who made your flute?
# Posted on December 30th 2002 by Will Harmon
Re: Flute Problem
I would highly, highly, highly suggest *not* sending your flute to Paul Mulvaney, get your flute to a well reputed maker or repairer.
# Posted on December 31st 2002 by B Rad
Re: Flute problem
I don't know Mulvaney at all, and have nothing against him, but surely there's someone local (or at least closer) who can help you out. School bands have lots of woodwinds and need repair work on a regular basis--perhaps they can steer you to a reputable repair person. At the very least, contact Terry McGee or Casey Burns through their web sites, or perhaps even send Migoya an email and get advice on how to fix the crack. Small cracks can often be easily repaired--it's just a matter of using the proper glue, preparation, and follow-up.
# Posted on December 31st 2002 by Will Harmon
Re: Flute problem
I wouldn't want to give bad advice, so follow Will's about contacting Terry McGee or Casey Burns for sure but I had a similar crack in the headjoint of my flute. I took it to my local music store, just to see what they thought. They specialize in band instrument repairs and did a very nice job on it. That was several years ago now and the repair is holding no problem. Will's advice on humidity has actually made the flute playable again so all is well. (I actually dropped it and had to do a quick repair before my partner found out I'd broken the lovely birthday present... yikes.)
# Posted on December 31st 2002 by ANNY
Re: sorry to interrupt...
Timmy--sorry to interrupt this discussion, but please look under the comments part of the session that you recently posted (Plough and the Stars); I had a question. Thanks.
O.K. you guys can go back to talking about flute stuff....
# Posted on December 31st 2002 by Andee
Re: Flute problem
Send your flute to Paul and have the headjoint replaced with Delrin?!?!?! Okay, I'm friends with Paul and I think that's the craziest idea ever. First, cocus is some of the nicest wood ever. Second, Paul is not a flute maker. He may have dabbled in it, but that's not "what he does". Have the headjoint repaired by a professional flute maker.
For repairs try the following:
Patrick Olwell
Skip Healy
Bryan Byrne
The Von Heune Workshop
They can all be found on the woodenflute.com page.
By the way, who made this flute? Have you thought of sending it back to the maker?
Best,
Chris
# Posted on January 2nd 2003 by ChrisLaughlin
Re: Flute problem
Erm.. I'm confused.
The headjoint and barrel joint are two completly different things, right? Paul offered to replace the **Barrel Joint**, not the headjoint.
I got my flute from the notorius mail-order company, Lark in the Morning. I asked them who made my flute, and they told me they get em from a privately contracted Middle-Eastern manufacturing company. My guess Is Pakistan, since they make some bagpipes there. I doubt the manufacturer accepts repair jobs.
Will, Paul estimated it would be $100, including shipment to and from and material cost. It seems extremely reasonable to me.
The crack has actually sealed up on its own. It's hardly noticeable.
I'll still get it repaired, but I'm not as worried about as I was before.
I've talked to Paul for a while, and he seems very knowledgable. Also, I'm hesitant to find a professional who will fix it, because I think they would charge more than I can afford. Money doesn't come easily when you're a 15 yr. old : ).
Thanks for all your brilliant advice,
Tim
# Posted on January 3rd 2003 by tadgh
Re: Flute problem
Oops! My mistake--but the crack is in the head joint, no? So why replace the *barrel* with a Delrin one? For the new Delrin to work, the tenon will have to fit snugly, and the cocus in the head joint will still crack around that, if that's where the problem lies.
Anyway, if the crack is small and not deep, take it to your local band instrument repair place (usually affiliated with a music shop). I'll bet you can find someone to fix it for less than $30. Barring that, if the flute is not overly valuable (by which I mean it's not a major name maker flute), just fill the crack yourself with a good resin epoxy, available at any hardware store for $5-$6. Seems to me either Casey Burns or Terry McGee even included instructions on how to do this on their web sites.
# Posted on January 3rd 2003 by Will Harmon
P.S. Tim, my four reasons for not adding a Delrin section to your wooden flute still stand--adding a Delrin barrel won't fix your cracked headjoint, will affect the flute's balance and appearance, and probably tone.
# Posted on January 3rd 2003 by Will Harmon
Re: Flute problem
I'm terribly sorry....
The barrel joint is the thing that's cracked
The head joint is fine.
And I've decided that I'll fill it with a tiny bit of epoxy, since the crack is so small now that you would actually need a magnifying lens to see it. Kind of funny, huh? You guys spent all this time giving me great advice and now I can't use it.
Thanks for all your help,
Tim
# Posted on January 3rd 2003 by tadgh