I have a problem in the winter with my fiddle. It's about 150 years old and changes considerably when the temperature drops and the heat comes on. I pulled it out to play the other day and all the strings had popped. I'm assuming because it's dry and the pegs lost their friction hold. My question is, what is the best way to humidify? I have one of those green worm thingys but it actually doesn't fit very well (yes it's for violins) and I am concerned about water inside the fiddle. I also have an Irish flute that produces a lovely tone in the summer... but sucks the big one in the winter. Any suggestions. I actually steamed the flute for a bit but I can't do that everytime I want to play. The flute was built in Ireland which I assume is little more humid than the Canadian Prairies and in the winter the joints stop fitting together properly and leak like crazy. I've also noticed that the rings that hold the flute at the top become loose. Yes it is very very dry here. My house is humidified but I need something a little more drastic. Any help, I thank you.
When I lived in Thunder Bay the tone of my 200 year old violin suffered in the dry winter weather. Now it's here in Toronto, and I use 2 humidifiers in the case. They're made for use in a tobacco pouch, but work well for the violin. My local music store guy says to occasionally steam it in the bathroom when I take a shower if the air gets too dry - that's sounds good to me. Best luck this winter!
I'm somewhat paranoid about this issue with my fllutes. Chicago winters can be brutal in this regard. Last winter, after a hairline crack appeared on the head joint on one of my flutes, I went out and bought a big, fat plastic container and now store my flutes inside perched atop a carved out milk carton. A large, damp smonge sits in the corner. I'm pretty happy with the setup; seems to work well. Chris Abell said I was probably overdoing it a bit, but i don't care, as i'd rather over humidify than under. Don't see why you couldn't do the same with a fiddle. Might be ideal to have a humidity gauge inside to keep things just right. Mold on a fiddle probably isn't the best thing...
Riggers' comment applies to just about anywhere in the British Isles!
But I must tell you that two evenings ago I went to a tiny village deep in the countryside about 25 miles from Bristol (UK) to play live with other musicians for a set dancing class. I took my fiddle out of its case, tuned up and started playing. After a minute or so I was rather perturbed by an irregular buzzing noise coming from the fiddle, which didn't seem to relate to any particular note I was playing. Visual inspection revealed a bee crawling about inside the fiddle. I turned the instrument upside down and the insect struggled out through one of the f-holes and sleepily flew off to the nearest window.
At home I frequently leave the instrument lying in its open case so as to get the benefit of the natural dampness of the British climate, so the bee must have found its way in sometime during the day.
As this morning our temperature sits at -17 degrees, the idea of moving to the British Isles sounds great. Well maybe except for the bees, Trevor. Some good suggestions. Thanks.
Anny, we have the same dry winters here in Montana that you describe in the Canadian prairies, and my fiddles react the same way. I don't like the dampits--it's risky to put water inside your fiddle, and the dampit doesn't really hold enough anyway, so you have to refill it nearly every day.
So I made my own humidifier out of a small plastic spice jar, the kind with a secondary plastic lid with shaker holes in it. I emptied out the cloves, washed it (it still smells like cloves, an added incentive for me to get the fiddle out more often , and cut a piece of sponge to fit inside the jar. Keep the sponge damp, and you've got your custom humidifier. The whole thing fits perfectly in the space of either bout on the fiddle. I suppose if you needed the extra humidity, you could use two of these, one on either side of the fiddle.
I also use a hygrometer in my case to keep tabs on the humidity. Music stores sell these, but I've found the ones at pet shops (for reptile terrariums) tend to be more accurate and no more expensive. Glauber has also recommended a digitial hygrometer that he bought at Radio Shack, I believe.
This set up lets me keep my fiddles at around 50-60% humidity, even when the air in my house dips below 10%.
As for wooden flutes, the key is to keep the wood well oiled, play the flute at least once a week to humidify the bore, and store it in a humidifed case (as Brendan describes) to keep the outer layers of the flute from drying out. Also grease the cork whenever it's not sealing properly.
I love this site. Thanks so much. These are really good ideas especially the spice jar. So simple, its beautiful. Sometimes answers lead to more questions. Suggestions for wood oil? My flute doesn't have exposed cork everywhere... it's wrapped with string at the worst joint. Thanks again.
Every wooden flute maker and player seems to have his or her own preference for oil. Many recommend bore oil, found at music shops and sold for all woodwind instruments. From there, the arguments fly over almond oil, raw linseed (NEVER use boiled linseed), olive oil, etc. Check out the woodenflute site for better advice.
The thread lapped joints are actually easier to take care of in our changing climate. You can use cork grease on the thread just as you would on cork, plus you can unravel or add thread as needed to keep the tenon fitting properly without being overly tight. Some makers recommend using waxed dental floss if you need to add on. But remember to check the fit whenever the humidity fluctuates much--you may need to unwrap the same thread you added to avoid putting too much pressure on the joint at a different humidity level.
Yep, the spice jar humidifer works better than any store-bought gizmo and far less expensive. If you tend to add a lot of water all at once to the sponge, consider laying your fiddle case flat for a day or two so there's no risk of drips running onto the fiddle. I usually just dampen the sponge, not really soak it, and wipe the outside of the jar dry before putting it in the case, so there's no water to come in direct contact with the fiddle.
Giant British spiders???? omg you MUST be joking, mac.
Reporting from high desert country, excellent advice on all counts. Seriously considering Will's homemade humidifier, except mine will smell like dill since I"ve just used the last bit.
Reply from Casey Burns about flute care in low humidity environs
Hi Emily,
As long as the environmental humidity reains 55% or so, you can keep the
flute in the case provided. However, indoor heating, especially in your
climate may lower that considerably - this I would highly recommend
storing the flute inside something watertight such as tupperware, with a
humidity source such as a DampIt. This essentially works like a sponge -
in fact a sponge works well as a substitute. The main idea is to store
your flute at that 55% humidity. If you stick it in tupperware, take a
sponge and pour a teaspoon or 2 of wayer into the spong, then tick that
in the same container - it will keep the flute humidified.
Its the extremes of totally wet while you play it and totally dry if its
stored without this that put the flute at danger.
Daniel Smith's in Seattle carries a product called "Refined Linseed Oil"
Go to them at www.danielsmith.com
Care and feeding.
Care and feeding.
I have a problem in the winter with my fiddle. It's about 150 years old and changes considerably when the temperature drops and the heat comes on. I pulled it out to play the other day and all the strings had popped. I'm assuming because it's dry and the pegs lost their friction hold. My question is, what is the best way to humidify? I have one of those green worm thingys but it actually doesn't fit very well (yes it's for violins) and I am concerned about water inside the fiddle. I also have an Irish flute that produces a lovely tone in the summer... but sucks the big one in the winter. Any suggestions. I actually steamed the flute for a bit but I can't do that everytime I want to play. The flute was built in Ireland which I assume is little more humid than the Canadian Prairies and in the winter the joints stop fitting together properly and leak like crazy. I've also noticed that the rings that hold the flute at the top become loose. Yes it is very very dry here. My house is humidified but I need something a little more drastic. Any help, I thank you.
# Posted on November 29th 2002 by ANNY
Re: Care and feeding.
Wow, Anny, I hope you're also on a list serve for people suffering from terminal cracked skin!
# Posted on November 29th 2002 by cuchulain54
Re: Care and feeding.
When I lived in Thunder Bay the tone of my 200 year old violin suffered in the dry winter weather. Now it's here in Toronto, and I use 2 humidifiers in the case. They're made for use in a tobacco pouch, but work well for the violin. My local music store guy says to occasionally steam it in the bathroom when I take a shower if the air gets too dry - that's sounds good to me. Best luck this winter!
# Posted on November 29th 2002 by fiddlefingers
Re: Care and feeding.
ANNY:
You mentioned that your house was humidified. By what means?
If you don't have an aprilaire, I recommend getting one.
# Posted on November 29th 2002 by blowfly
Re: Care and feeding.
I'm somewhat paranoid about this issue with my fllutes. Chicago winters can be brutal in this regard. Last winter, after a hairline crack appeared on the head joint on one of my flutes, I went out and bought a big, fat plastic container and now store my flutes inside perched atop a carved out milk carton. A large, damp smonge sits in the corner. I'm pretty happy with the setup; seems to work well. Chris Abell said I was probably overdoing it a bit, but i don't care, as i'd rather over humidify than under. Don't see why you couldn't do the same with a fiddle. Might be ideal to have a humidity gauge inside to keep things just right. Mold on a fiddle probably isn't the best thing...
# Posted on November 29th 2002 by Brendan
Re: Care and feeding.
Try moving to Manchester
You won't have problems with dry winters ....or dry summers for that matter!
# Posted on November 29th 2002 by riggers
Re: Care and feeding.
Riggers' comment applies to just about anywhere in the British Isles!
But I must tell you that two evenings ago I went to a tiny village deep in the countryside about 25 miles from Bristol (UK) to play live with other musicians for a set dancing class. I took my fiddle out of its case, tuned up and started playing. After a minute or so I was rather perturbed by an irregular buzzing noise coming from the fiddle, which didn't seem to relate to any particular note I was playing. Visual inspection revealed a bee crawling about inside the fiddle. I turned the instrument upside down and the insect struggled out through one of the f-holes and sleepily flew off to the nearest window.
At home I frequently leave the instrument lying in its open case so as to get the benefit of the natural dampness of the British climate, so the bee must have found its way in sometime during the day.
trevor
13:39:45gmt
# Posted on November 29th 2002 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Care and feeding.
As this morning our temperature sits at -17 degrees, the idea of moving to the British Isles sounds great. Well maybe except for the bees, Trevor. Some good suggestions. Thanks.
# Posted on November 30th 2002 by ANNY
Re: Care and feeding.
Anny
The f-holes are big enough.
I'm just thankful that none of the giant British spiders have taken up residence in my cello
trevor
02:10gmt 1dec2002
# Posted on November 30th 2002 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Care and feeding.
Anny, we have the same dry winters here in Montana that you describe in the Canadian prairies, and my fiddles react the same way. I don't like the dampits--it's risky to put water inside your fiddle, and the dampit doesn't really hold enough anyway, so you have to refill it nearly every day.
, and cut a piece of sponge to fit inside the jar. Keep the sponge damp, and you've got your custom humidifier. The whole thing fits perfectly in the space of either bout on the fiddle. I suppose if you needed the extra humidity, you could use two of these, one on either side of the fiddle.
So I made my own humidifier out of a small plastic spice jar, the kind with a secondary plastic lid with shaker holes in it. I emptied out the cloves, washed it (it still smells like cloves, an added incentive for me to get the fiddle out more often
I also use a hygrometer in my case to keep tabs on the humidity. Music stores sell these, but I've found the ones at pet shops (for reptile terrariums) tend to be more accurate and no more expensive. Glauber has also recommended a digitial hygrometer that he bought at Radio Shack, I believe.
This set up lets me keep my fiddles at around 50-60% humidity, even when the air in my house dips below 10%.
As for wooden flutes, the key is to keep the wood well oiled, play the flute at least once a week to humidify the bore, and store it in a humidifed case (as Brendan describes) to keep the outer layers of the flute from drying out. Also grease the cork whenever it's not sealing properly.
Good luck
# Posted on November 30th 2002 by Will Harmon
Re: Care and feeding.
I love this site. Thanks so much. These are really good ideas especially the spice jar. So simple, its beautiful. Sometimes answers lead to more questions. Suggestions for wood oil? My flute doesn't have exposed cork everywhere... it's wrapped with string at the worst joint. Thanks again.
# Posted on November 30th 2002 by ANNY
Re: Care and feeding.
Every wooden flute maker and player seems to have his or her own preference for oil. Many recommend bore oil, found at music shops and sold for all woodwind instruments. From there, the arguments fly over almond oil, raw linseed (NEVER use boiled linseed), olive oil, etc. Check out the woodenflute site for better advice.
The thread lapped joints are actually easier to take care of in our changing climate. You can use cork grease on the thread just as you would on cork, plus you can unravel or add thread as needed to keep the tenon fitting properly without being overly tight. Some makers recommend using waxed dental floss if you need to add on. But remember to check the fit whenever the humidity fluctuates much--you may need to unwrap the same thread you added to avoid putting too much pressure on the joint at a different humidity level.
Yep, the spice jar humidifer works better than any store-bought gizmo and far less expensive. If you tend to add a lot of water all at once to the sponge, consider laying your fiddle case flat for a day or two so there's no risk of drips running onto the fiddle. I usually just dampen the sponge, not really soak it, and wipe the outside of the jar dry before putting it in the case, so there's no water to come in direct contact with the fiddle.
# Posted on November 30th 2002 by Will Harmon
Re: Care and feeding.
Giant British spiders???? omg you MUST be joking, mac.
Reporting from high desert country, excellent advice on all counts. Seriously considering Will's homemade humidifier, except mine will smell like dill since I"ve just used the last bit.
Here is another great link on care of wooden flutes: http://kendaco.telebyte.com/cburns/care.html
Good luck!
# Posted on November 30th 2002 by emily_bmore
Re: Care and feeding.
emily
I was joking about the spiders. There are none. The giant centipedes got 'em long ago ...
trevor
# Posted on November 30th 2002 by Trevor Jennings
Re: Care and feeding.
Thanks again and thanks for the link Emily. I've got some care to do on my flute for sure. Much appreciated.
# Posted on December 1st 2002 by ANNY
Re: Care and feeding.
Dry weather.... What's that???
# Posted on December 1st 2002 by Bernie
Re: Care and feeding.
!!! Does this have anything to do with St Patrick driving all the snakes out of Ireland, some basic repercussion on the food chain? Yikes!
anytime anny!
# Posted on December 1st 2002 by emily_bmore
Reply from Casey Burns about flute care in low humidity environs
Hi Emily,
As long as the environmental humidity reains 55% or so, you can keep the
flute in the case provided. However, indoor heating, especially in your
climate may lower that considerably - this I would highly recommend
storing the flute inside something watertight such as tupperware, with a
humidity source such as a DampIt. This essentially works like a sponge -
in fact a sponge works well as a substitute. The main idea is to store
your flute at that 55% humidity. If you stick it in tupperware, take a
sponge and pour a teaspoon or 2 of wayer into the spong, then tick that
in the same container - it will keep the flute humidified.
Its the extremes of totally wet while you play it and totally dry if its
stored without this that put the flute at danger.
Daniel Smith's in Seattle carries a product called "Refined Linseed Oil"
Go to them at www.danielsmith.com
Glad that you are enjoying the flute!
Casey
Hope this also helps Anny! --emily
# Posted on December 1st 2002 by emily_bmore